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rewolff

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  1. No pitch is the distance between the lines. The "first layer height" is set to 0.3mm as you say. As a compromise between "faster printing" and "better quality I've set the layer height for the rest of the print to 0.15. The "first layer width" is set to 1mm, it's not in the advanced settings but in the expert settings... Hmmm, I now see it is under the heading "RAFT" so it may not have anything to do with the "object-first layer".
  2. Yes, some production processes require manual or non-manual postprocessing. But the idea of a 3D printer is that I can make stuff that I wouldn't otherwise be able to. One of the things I want to be able to make is "gears". The "gear train" of commercial products are usually injection molded nylon. But there are so many different sizes and shapes that it is not possible to just have a few in stock and build something useful out of it. Lego and Fisher-technik come a long way to solving this. Anyway, if I print a gear and it has a base that is wider than the rest, it will not allow me to put t
  3. You're saying to make my bottom face one line-size smaller. So both the first and second layer get to move into the leftover spot. Ok. That's another option. (but if I'm over-extruding, that might be causing problems on the inside somewhere as well.). The thing is: For a one-off project, just modifying the object is simplest and fastest. And it works to test out a theory like yours. But in the long run, I think we should define the models to be "the way we want the resulting object to be", and that the tool-chain is able to adjust for the inaccuracies of the building process. Suppose I build
  4. I've been thinking about this some more. One of the problems of 3D-printing with extruded plastic is making the object stick to the platform. If you just extrude a strand of plastic it will just "lie there" on the platform, and it won't provide a base for the rest of the print. So probably to make it stick, I have a tendency to configure the software/hardware to provide say plastic for a 0.2mm first layer, while the hardware has only 0.15mm clearance between the head and the platform. This creates some extra pressure and makes the object stick better. But the "extra material" has to go some
  5. The print I made some 1.5 years ago was * PLA * no heated bed (and I have that in front of me). The print I made a few days ago (and my friend's) * ABS * heated bed at 100deg. WITH capton on the bed. This is the PLA thing that I now have access to: The effect is more pronounced with the ABS.
  6. Hi, I'm trying to print a gear. A friend is making an object that ends at say 60-70 degrees to the platform (i.e. on a small base, growing slightly bigger upwards). My friend's object is getting printed and the print starts out with a vertical part. The base is too big. Similarly my gears (vertical walls) are sloping inwards for the first few mm. The rest is fine. Is there some obvious setting we have wrong? Is this unavoidable?
  7. I filed a bugreport on github yesterday mentioning one of the named items here. Daid pointed me here. So while I was on my way here I thought about "what else can be improved?"... Everything I came up with has already been mentioned. (plus a few other good ones). Thinking some more... Why does cura visualize the models? To place and manipulate them! Why visualize the toolpath? Now it's just "check". but in the (far?) future it might become a toolpath editor. So, within a layer there are a bunch of infills and a bunch of moves. I might want to change the order of the infills between the moves
  8. A friend has a new 3D printer. When I played with an Ultimaker a long time ago, the PLA was "easier" and I didn't see this problem. However, with the ABS shrinking a bit after solidifying, the overhangs tend to bend up. My friend doesn't have anything but ABS yet, so he's seeing this problem: The head hits the overhang, and potentially bumps the object from the bed. Solutions: I don't know. I'd think that doing the overhang "too high" when there isn't anything below, could work. Then approaching the material on the other side from the top might help. But difficult to parametrize: how much up
  9. Currently things on the software side are already limiting. For example, the general idea is that every 100us, it is evaluated weather or not another step is required.... So at normal speeds, sometimes yes, sometimes no. This already results in artefacts. If the Y axis is taking a step every 3 cycles, but the X axis every 3.1 cycles, a visible pattern can be seen. The 100us was chosen because the AVR in the arduino can handle it, but not much more. Fine. But having a 5x faster CPU can push the artefacts a factor of five further down the line. Keeping things whole means sensible limits for
  10. Oh. I remember that "device cannot start". This happened when the Prolific PL2303 windows driver thought it was talking to a fake PL2303 chip. They were annoyed at so many fake chips doing the rounds so they modified the driver to give that error message when it detects a fake chip......
  11. The above post is SPAM trying to promote their website, hoping to trick moderators into leaving it there with the formulation of the message like that. I was tricked until I couldn't find any link....
  12. I just put it on the floor behind the printer. Make sure to uncurl the spiral between the stock and the printer every now and then. You can have a big "spring" like structure between the stock and the printer so that you can leave it alone for hours on end....
  13. IMHO, going from "hot enough to melt the plastic" to "plastic stays solid" should not happen say inside the brass. Suppose you've been printing for quite a while with little extrusion (lots of jumps). Now everything heats up, lots of plastic melts. Next the print is finished and you shut it down for a day. Next day you try to print something.. but it may take a very long while to melt the plastic as far "up" in the brass so that it un-sticks. What is needed is a "sudden" transition from where it melts to where it doesn't melt. This is accomplished by the changeover from brass to peek. The
  14. Lots of plastics "remember" what happened around the time they cooled. So you have those food-containers that suddenly "remember" being flat if you heat them to 60 degrees. There is a bit of "tension" in printed PLA. even though it's less than ABS, I've had trouble that a larger box came loose from the bed due to shrinking. So what PLA "remembers" when you heat it is that it was supposed to be a bit smaller, but it HAD to be bigger to fit on the layer below. However the neatly extruded 3mm filament doesn't remember anything. Maybe the odd-looking curved sections have something to do with t
  15. I have a test-object where we print 0.2 mm through 1.6 mm cylinders with 0.2 steps. The 1mm one always comes out more or less as two separate cylinders, an inner one and an outer one.
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