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hcpl

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  1. just reported some spam! I didn't receive my new parts yet. I'll get back to this topic as soon as I have my new head so I can continue testing. Thanks for the color details calinb.
  2. Calinb yours needed many modifications in order to work! I checked all these details on my machine now and I have the same issue with the driving bolt. It needs to machined also in order to get the good part completely aligned in the driving slot of the extruder. Good to know. I'll keep that in mind if the new hot end is still not working. The delrin part pushing the filament against the driving bolt is not an issue with mine (other than user error in the beginning) since I have the V2 version of that. You should really print that now you can. I have both and the difference is significant!
  3. Joergen: in ReplicatorG build 0026 you can go to the control screen (the arrows icon) and there you can set the extrusion motor rpm on the top right box. It's at 1000 rpm by default I think.
  4. Okay good and bad news. The good news is that there was indeed material on the PEEK again so I cleaned that off. Measured the parts and it should be possible for the 2 to meet. So I tightened the PEEK on the brass pipe and noticed the brass got passed the part where the PLA was before... only to realize I forgot the alu plate in between. Unscrewed and started remounting with everything in place. While mounting I started to heat up also anticipating perfect extrusion. A little distraction from my kid asking about the wifi on her tablet. Went away a few minutes to check. Got back and started t
  5. Lol I missed this crucial post! Let me reply to that also. Great to hear your set now! That picture of filament was before I understood that my extruder drive was indeed abusing the filament. Today it's much better on that side, leaving only small toothmarks. I'll make a picture of that improvement this evening. I think it might. I think temperature can change how and where plastic jams in the hot end.Also to report back this evening after some new heat tests now that I have the extruder drive fixed. The link you provided explains the official reasons. http://daid.eu/blag
  6. I followed these steps closely. From my understanding step 30 and 31 will compensate for each other. By creating a gap the size of the blue horseshoe clip at the bottom, then putting the clip in place you push the tube up, that will be compensated once you assembly the long screws so the white part in between on the bottom is pushed up again and the 2 parts meet. No no milling machine here. Thanks for the offer but I'm in Europe so it would take a lot of shipping time and money. I'll try it once I have the spare. With a file should be doable very careful like you mention. Thanks for the
  7. In mij 3rd picture you can see that the green filament also got around the brass part in the PEEK. You can see the green ring it formed. Also the blob of filament there is too big to fit in the teflon part I believe. It looks like a jam. That picture is taken after the jamp but already cooled down. once I receive my second I can start modifying the head. For instance removing some material on the down side of the PEEK would allow the brass part to insert completely and touch the teflon white insert.
  8. hcpl

    Cura on mac

    What OS X version do you run? If 10.8 the instructions from the cura website won't work. I'm working with replicatorG for now and have hardware related issues. Once that's fixed I'll look into isntallation of cura on 10.8. If you're still on 10.7 or 10.6 then the instructions from the website should match. If not you can always get help here.
  9. Calinb: I feel your pain. Mine is a business investment also. Not return on investment yet though since it can only barely print 3 layers. The black stand offs were in a separate bag labeled motor stand-offs. I received the white ones also and these were indeed mounted like you describe. I have noisy cooling. Indeed since it works without head the tube ain't my issue either. Ebay has tubes listed in case yours gets bitemarks out of frustration. I watched mine closely while printing those first and only layers. The white teflon part on top of the peek got pushed up at least 1mm when it went
  10. I'm going to abuse this thread to collect info for myself also. It might help you. I was talking earlier about the pressure on the long threads that keep the head together. I have that wrong in my setup for sure. The first answer in this thread viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1317 has great info on why that tention has to be exact. The tube doesn't melt down but flexes when heated and then can deform making it harder for the PLA to come through. When I retract PLA I sometimes also have to use more force because the molted end is bigger and causes more friction against the tube. => edit: fixed th
  11. Indeed got that bertho-style upgrade shipped. It provides better controller over pressure (I agree on that) and should compensate for differences in the filament (looks like it does to some level). Once printer works with the original clamp mechanism you can print one yourself. UM should work with original also. Or this completely new design: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:27626 ... If only we could print Yes cutting off another wasted length of filament is getting harder and harder to do. This link has good, and visual information on that plug issue: http://daid.eu/blag/2
  12. So you have E commands in the resulting gcode? I had an issue before where these were missing and had to check the "dimension" > "activate dimension" option in the applied replicatorG profile. Can you get the motor running when you use the control screen in replicatorG? If that fails I would say it's a wiring/hardware issue for sure.
  13. I'd like to know the answer to this question also. My extruder also jams at that speed on a newly assembled UM kit. It works fine at much lower speeds like 500 rpm. 1000 rpm was also blocking eventually. @banana: check if you can push the filament through by hand. If that isn't possible it's more likely caused by the hot end blocking. Make sure to clean the driving bolt once this has happened since it will slip when not clean. I read that we should have just light toothmarks in the filament, that should help getting the right tension. Do you have the V2 or V1 clamp on your driver? There is a
  14. This thread has info no the end about the long screws in the head that shouldn't be too tight. viewtopic.php?f=7&t=1450
  15. Do you have a recent kit? I received mine about 2 weeks ago and received V2 hot end only but both V1 and V2 extruder clamp mechanism. I have no tools to measure the required force to put filament through nozzle at this time. I'll try to get that done. I have a caliper so I can measure the filament diameter. I'll do that this evening and complete this post. The symptoms on mine are very similar. If I let the extruder drive filament through an open hot end it goes fine up to 2000 rpm, 3000 rpm got the motor screaming but that's not abnormal I understand. When I try to let it run through a hea
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