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  1. Sorry if my description above was a little confusing. Here is what I have.
  2. I purchased an original Ultimaker with dual extruders and an upgraded heat bed. I see a scrape mark on the inside back of the Ultimaker and it also makes some strange clicking sounds as the bed goes up and down the Z-axis. I looked at the installation pdf and on the back of the heat bed there is a metal tab with a hole in it and I believe this is scraping on the back of the Ultimaker making a scrape mark as well as the clicking sound. Or so I am assuming this is what is causing it. I can't see anything else. Anyway my question or observation is, I would not think this tab should be scraping
  3. Did the upgrade fix it? I know when I had trouble with my Gen 6 connecting, once I upgraded to 13.03 I believe it was Cura connected just as well as the others. Before I upgraded I was having the same issues you are.
  4. Daid, you might have seen my request in another thread but if not I thought I might post it again. I think it would be nice to have a button to push in the event you need to change filament or running out. This button would stop the printing at the current location, save it, raise the head or move the head (determined by user given input) allow the user to swap out filament, feed the filament or jog it. Then when the button is pressed again, go back to the place where the printing was left off. I hope that makes sense. Thanks for all your hard work
  5. Okay, maybe not the only comment but I can say it again. WOW. I have been trying to print out a couple of robot pieces for a couple of little boys of some friends of ours. I was using slic3r as it was the one everyone uses right? Well no more, the pieces I have been trying to print have some smaller bottoms than tops and some overhangs and for the life of me I could not get them to stick and stay put because of the small footprint. I tried the new version of slic3r with the raft and it was a joke. Anyway I had played around with Cura just a little before and never really got into it. I had us
  6. I guess I am not one that expects people to protect me from myself. If I leave my hotend hot and it plugs I guess I would learn not to do that if I had to clean it out a couple of times.
  7. Ahhhh Ok so it is an override, that is what I wanted to know. I think I got Cura figured out at least for now. Take a look at this and tell me what you think. I don't know what I was doing stupid earlier.
  8. What is the "Steps Per E" used for in Cura? I assume normally on the Ultimaker the value in Merlin and Cura match but when I do that on my Prusa it seems as though it spits out more product than required. Just trying to get a handle on getting Cura up and running.
  9. I sent you my config files. My prints were best about 195C. This was also without a fan so I am in the process of mounting a fan to the head and most likely will help a bit from what I have heard. I took the time to figure out how the new gallery works so here is the pic I was trying to show earlier.
  10. Cool good to know, but yeah I thought people would know the nozzle had to be hot and yes your not going to force it through at 350mm per min either. I did mine with the nozzle hot and at a slow rate. But here is my first try at PLA using the same settings I use for ABS just temp down a bit to 220. To me it looks like it printed a little hot as one of the pieces looks melted on the hinge portion of the print. Turning it down to 210 and see what happens. We I don't see how to attach pics from my machine only a URL so I will send them to you email David.
  11. The nozzle needs to be attached as a whole unit to get an accurate measurement of how much filament will be going through it while it is attached and at the temp you plan to start printing at, or so that is how I understand it.
  12. Okay tell ya what. I have all but abandoned printing PLA, mainly because I don't like the way it looks for my uses but I will see if I can get my machine dialed in using slic3r and PLA and send you config file. I have not done a lot with Cura yet, Otherwise I would send you those config files but at least this will get you a way to start printing something decent and you can work from there. It might take me a few days (and maybe not) as I have not printed enough PLA to get mine dialed in for it. If it turns out to be the same settings I use for ABS just at a lower temp then it won't take too
  13. Yeah if I cancel a print the head turns off as well. Also if I cancel a print, make changes, then re-slice and hit print again, I have to go searching for the print window. It is hidden back behind the settings window. I would think once I hit the print button again it should bring it to the top of the stack. Am I incorrect in my thinking here?
  14. Did you go through that calibration document I gave you the link to? It has different pictures for different problems and their fixes. I would bet that will answer a lot of your questions. It goes into temp considerations, speed considerations and slicer setting and such. I would take a few days if I were you and go throuh and make sure your machine is calibrated properly. If you do that you are sure to not only understand your machine much better but also have fewer questions.
  15. Yeah I agree with Joergen especially since you have not had any decent prints any other time. It certainly sounds to me like you skipped the step of calibrating the machine. Take for instance on my setup. The steps are 375 due to the electronics I have. I would expect yours to be closer to 750 to 800 range since you are using ramps and can go down to a finer step than I can. Here is a link that should help quite a bit. http://richrap.blogspot.com/2012/01/slic3r-is-nicer-part-1-settings-and.html
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