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chemwhite

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  1. I have also been having issues with underextrusion on the infill (multiple types of filament). The problem might be worse at higher speeds. It would probably be a good idea to look at how Cura handles the extrusion rate. Is there a function used to determine extrusion rate that includes any parameters other than print speed? If so, those other parameters should be removed from the function to prevent problems with both solid and nonsolid infills. Thanks
  2. One more feature request: The ability to lock the print to a specific location (center, mm in X direction and mm in Y direction, etc). This is absolutely critical to being able to recover some prints (i.e. when the filament jams or breaks). I can create a model of the remainder of the print to print on top of what is already on the print bed, but there is no way to make sure that it is aligned with the orginal model. This would also be useful for printing multiple items on the same print bed. Please include this capability in an upcoming release. Thanks in advance
  3. Two requests: 1 - It would be really helpful to be able to pan the layers view side to side and front to back. On large prints, it can be quite difficult to see the details of the tool path around the perimeter without this feature. I know that a previous version of Cura had this ability, but when the faster version came out, that ability went away. Any possibility of adding it back in? 2 - Different infill patterns could be quite helpful at times. I won't request specifics, but there are times when having an option could make a significant difference in the print.
  4. It would be really nice to have the top view and the ability to specify the layer number I am looking at (the slider on the side isn't really very usable when you have hundreds of layers). Other than that, thank you for your excellent work on this software. You seem to be much more responsive to the users that other software developers. Thanks again :-P
  5. The "duplicate outlines might be improved without actually creating a separate slice by printing half way between the lower layer and the layer above. Not sure how hard the programing would be though.
  6. I have been printing the Taulman nylon on Kapton tape. It sticks so well that it can be difficult to get off. Often some of the tape will stick to the part, requiring new tape to be put down before the next print. Anyway, this has solved the warping problem for me - WITHOUT a heated bed.
  7. Don't think that the head is getting stuck on the 1st layer. It's almost like the origin (or home position) changes for some reason. Also, it happens whether I use the Ulticontroller or the computer to drive the printer. And if I repeat the print, the jump also happens exactly the same way each time, although it is different for different models.
  8. I do have belt tensioners on all the long belts and they seem reasonably tight. Also, the jump only happens once during a print (even the 1500 layer print that I did last night), and it always happens on the same layer (2nd layer not including raft). It seems that it is related to either software, firmware, or electronics. I just put an Ultimaker controller on, and I think that it may have something to do with that. I installed the version of Marlin that comes with Cura 4. Is that compatible with the Ultimaker controller?
  9. I am not sure if this has something to do with Cura or something else, but all of my prints seem to want to jump several millimeters in the x and/or y directions near the start of the second layer. That is the second layer of the object, so if I use a raft, it would be the fourth layer. The jumps range anywhere from a millimeter or two up to a couple of centimeters. Really messes up the prints. After that jump though I am usually able to do the rest of the print with no jumps. Any suggestions?
  10. Any future posibility of independently scaling each axis?
  11. I wouldn't use acrylic for the heated only because the thermal conductivity of the acrylic is low, which might make control of the temperature on the top side of the bed a little difficult.
  12. The fan on the bottom of the Ultimaker is very noisy. We just got the Ultimaker a few weeks ago. Any suggestions?
  13. If you have the time and the wind, take a thin straw to focus the air and blow on the print. I have found that this will keep the print cool. Just hyperventilate!
  14. Problem solved! I used a nozzle diameter of 0.254 mm, and filament diameter of 2.7 mm (actual is 2.82), and printing speed of 50 mm/sec, an infill overlap of 25%, a layer thickness of 0.12 mm (with skins enabled), and a print temperature of 215 for the gray PLA that came with the Ultimaker machine. This gave a very nice 100% infill without voids.
  15. A couple of things I have found: - It is possible to have enough compression to make the filament oval if you tighten up the thumb screw when the filament starts to strip because the tightening mechanism moves in to take up some of the carved out space in filament. When the filament moves past that point, the compression goes up. - A solution that I have found is to use a larger ID on the Bowden tube. McMaster Carr sells 1/4 inch PFA tubing with a 5/32 inch inside diameter. This allows for a larger diameter filament to go through the Bowden tube. The only thing would be if the filament gets caught on the inside edge of the brass tube. I just reamed out (very carefully) the end of the brass tube to a slightly larger diameter. Make sure that there is no plastic in the hot end before removing any brass though, or the brass filings could plug up the nozzle.
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