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albert

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  1. Hi Ian, Nice to see you're back! I think we have some kind of summer "lull" on the forum at the moment. 3d printing is a winter sport...summer weather = less time at the workbench! I really don't know whether UM has been able to cope with the problems of fast growth. many times one only sees the users with problems on the forum, not the ones where everything works perfectly. I believe the dust is settling on some of the recent upheavals. I hope they got the delivery times and quality control issues right by now, I do not follow these things with any kind of regularity. I think its more
  2. Thank you Illuminarti- now retraction happens on these critical moves...I have not tried what it does when the entire object is printed this way but at least the first layer seems to work now!
  3. Hi again, Thanks for all the replies, I have uploaded a few pictures to the gallery. Unfortunately I have forgotten how to embed them right in here.... The problem is not the skirt, it is the inner perimeters. The head does a fast travel move to get to the start point of the inner hole and leaves a messy line of pla behind. This empties out the nozzle and so the start point of the inner circle wont stick. The remedy for this would be to either " print" the travel move or to retract - stop and re- prime the nozzle for the next step. I have tried various bed levels, speeds and temperatures b
  4. Hi Daid, thanks for getting back to me..I will try to get some photos but it may take a while since I'm out this afternoon. BTW: you have helped me this summer to get CURA running on my two older machines. I'm happy to report that all your later versions run perfectly on my machines now.
  5. Hi everyone, I lately keep running into problems with larger models that have holes in them. On the first layer, the printer first traces the outer perimeter, then goes to the inside and traces the holes, but without retraction, so I get a lot of messy thin PLA tracks that will either not stick to the bed at all or they will melt and mess up the printhead when the head returns to the second round. On a particular model I have restarted the print for an hour until I got it to do the first layer. I even tried to modify the model to start the holes a couple of tenths after the first layer and t
  6. Taking up the subject you had before, I use ProBooleans in Max all the time because I love that you can go back and change parameters or move elements after the boolean has executed. I have fewer crashes since I have adopted the strategy to finely subdivide the elements of the boolean. If you subtract a cylinder form a cube to make a hole in it there might be a crash if the cylinder has 12 sides, if I go to 60 sides it works better. A really great program for booleans is RHINO. It uses nurbs curves and therefore does all kinds of booleans much better than a polygon based modeller. Nice chamf
  7. I have continued to experiment today. Without a primer on the pla you can scratch the acrylic paint off the surface with a fingernail. With the primer it gets slightly better. I have tried thinning acrylics with a tiny amount of white spirit instead of water. This might work but it takes a long time for the paint to finally harden. So I can't say yet if it is a fix to the problem. In this week I will also try oil paints just to see what that will do. It might be necessary to go back to some more classic techniques. Luckily we have a warm and dry weather spell so I can do these tests ou
  8. Puppet head painted with airbrush and acrylics.The paint and sculpting are for the stage, i.e. I need to watch where shadows and highlights will be. In plain daylight this looks a little bland but takes on a life of its own under stage lighting conditions. The Acrylic paint does not stick well to the plastic although the head has been painted with a primer. What kind of solvent based paint could one use here on PLA without dissolving the material? I need something that "bites" slightly into the plastic to make the paint bond better to the surface. The head was cut in half in netf
  9. Would love to test this...qualified as "beginner"... I'd also like to say I find it awesome what has happened on the software side in the last months and years. Today I can model sculpt and design with free software, slice with free software and print with free soft-and firmware. Without all the thousands of man hours you coding wizards have put into these projects, machines like the ultimaker would only be pieces of wood and metal. And all of this can be used by guys like me who are basically artists without much in depth knowledge of the bits and bytes. Thank you for your work and for ma
  10. I also had the same issues. I had parts where the correct outer dimension was not important but the size of the hole was. So I printed with 1.025 overall scale factor. By now I also try to account for the problem by modifying the model. Part of the reason for the incorrect inner diameters might be the fact that the plastic layers get squashed on top of each other. This might create som plastic overflow towards the inside of the hole. Shrinkage is also an issue. I have test printed a 10 mm bolt and nut made with the Blender plugin "bolts". The nut would not fit the bolt until I printed it a
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