mgg942

Does seem the way to go.

What or which 'printed part mount' are you referring to? An existing one, or one that could be designed? I like your point that the collet retaining features in this application are much less demanding than those provided for in commercial fittings.

Nick, hard to be sure (apart from the fact that mine are grey!). The largest diameter is 19.5mm this is the diameter that bottoms onto the E3D and is the same dimension as across the edges of the hexagon section, Thanks for the retraction and extruder spring tips. Mike.

Received my eagerly awaited E3D hot end a couple of days ago. Very nice looking unit, seems very well made. I was disappointed to find that the bowden tube fitting was incompatible (too large) with both am001's design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:94678) and Nick Foley's design (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:121074) BTW I know that Andrew noted this in an earlier post in this thread. So, I've finished the installation all bar the Bowden tube as I'm awaiting delivery of a fitting, and I thought that I'd make a few comments about what I've observed so far. The hole through the head, the heat break and in the nozzle appears to be pretty much 3.2 mm, similar to Ultimaker. However this diameter is over a much greater distance than in the Ultimaker so I'm worried that I might have difficulty with a couple of the larger PLAs I have. I got away with these in the Ultimaker by drilling out the PTFE to 3.5 mm (and using a larger tube, see below). The Bowden tube supplied appears to be made from PTFE or a close relative. Very slippery. Same OD as the Ultimaker Bowden (1/4") The bore size, however, is smaller. The Ultimaker tube will comfortably accept a drill shaft measuring 3.27mm (but not one measuring 3.49mm) The E3D tube will just accept a drill shaft measuing 2.97mm (but not one measuring 3.11mm) I guess that I won't be using the supplied Bowden tube or fittings (could use one on the extruder end, though). While I'm measuring tubing, I'll note that the tubing that I use for larger PLA will accept a drill shaft measuring 3.88mm (like the other 2, it's 1/4" OD). Finally, there appears to be no way of securing the heat break in the body. The Ultimaker design squashes the heat break, PEEK and PTFE together. Has anyone experienced any issue with the heat break getting loose in the body?

Some degradation or loss of the signal, I expect. I've certainly experienced issues with other USB devices that won't work if connected to the computer USB port via a cable but will if plugged directly into the port. The powered hub may start with a stronger signal and thus better stand the losses in the connecting cable.

I think that I've had a similar problem with the standard V2 hotend with PLA filament with a mean diameter of 3.05 and fairly elliptical. To get this to feed consistently I had to change the Bowden tube to a nylon tube with a slightly larger bore and drill out the PTFE part with a 3.5mm drill. Mike.

Thanks, Andrew. I'd seen that was what you have done and I plan to do the same. Mike.

Re the thermistor. I have an E3D on order. From what I've read it appears that Ultimaker customers would be best served if the E3D Ulimaker version had an Aluminium block with the correctly sized hole to accept the Ultimaker thermocouple. I wonder if Sanjay might consider this. I would make conversion easier and may generate a bit more business!

Nick, thanks for the info. It's given me the confidence to print out your mount for the E3D hot end (en route to me!) and your variant of the MoonCactus XY blocks. Anything to make life easier has me hooked!

Nick, do you have much experience using plastite screws in these sorts of application? Dynamic, with vibration. If so, how have you found they compare with machine screws and nuts for resistance to loosening? Similar? Superior? Inferior? Undoubtedly more convenient, but is there a downside?

1) Almost every time I start a print when the hot end needs to warm up, the initial adhesion is bad for the first 30 seconds or so. It might be interesting to have an option that would have Cura lay out a pattern in a corner away from the main print job to get past this critical time period. In the case of this particular model, I needed brim because it had little support area, so the first few rings of the brim would mess up, but then it would "catch". I'm using an Ulticontroller. As the indicated temperature is approaching the set temperature I turn the extrusion wheel by hand. I see the effect that this has on the indicated temperature, and feel the variation of resistance from the filament going through the nozzle. Worth a try.

Sorry to have been so terse. I should have written "looking at the layers view"... The post was really a report of what I'd observed rather than a cry for help. I've learnt that if I (think that) I need support or a raft I'll have better success with 13.04 than with 13.06.4. Trying to understand why I looked at the layers view in both versions and posted about what I saw with 13.06.4

Like the great accessibility of your z-axis adjuster. Is there any loss of maximum vertical movement of the mounting plate?

I'm trying to print something with support from the baseplate - and because of adhesion failures - also a raft. Printing of the raft/support doesn't start until about layer 3. This is what I'm trying to print: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:51018

Judging by what I've read in the 'fora' I've had more hot end issues than the average owner during the fairly short time I've had my Ultimaker. Eventually I bought some 0.4mm drills (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/261116222911?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649 ). A grand total of approx AUD10! Now if I think that there may be a problem with the nozzle - while the hot end is up to temperature - I carefully insert the drill into the nozzle, largely by trial and error 'cos it's difficult to see the nozzle exit hole without some disassembly, and it's easy to feel whether or not the hole is fully clear or partially blocked. If it's partially blocked then a bit of twirling and to-ing and fro-ing with the drill should clear it. BTW this is done just holding the chuck in my fingers. The reason for the chuck is that I found it too difficult to hold and manoeuvre the drill on its own. Note, also, I have used the chuck and drill with a Dremel type unit to clean out a cold nozzle.

OK - forget the raft. Wish I never introduced it as it's only confused matters. My basic point is that I had great difficulty printing the Ball in a box (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:106850) with 13.06.4, but found it straightforward in 13.04. Rightly or wrongly I thought is something to do with the where the skirt is printed and the effect of this on the first few layers. The image below shows layer 1 in 13.04 and 13.06.4 with a photo of the Ball in a box inserted into the image. In both cases, no support, no raft. Skirt line count 1, skirt distance 3mm, 0.1 layer height, 0.3 initial layer height. So, is the skirt performance in 13.06.4 as it should be?

OK - thanks for your interest.

I think that maybe your eye skipped this line in my original post: "When I try with 13.06.4 no skirt is printed with line count set to 1, or 3 or 4 which I've also tried." As far as I can recall I didn't alter the skirt distance so it would have been the default of 3.0mm. I agree that there is little point in a skirt plus a raft. I was trying (badly) to make the point that I couldn't get a skirt in 13.06.4 as I could in 13.04. The skirt may not be the key issue. Using 13.06.4, with support from the buildplate, printing starts from the inside out - as I think is shown in layer one in the layer view. Have you had a chance to have a look at this with the model? Might be easier than dealing with my half-informed posts!

Thanks for the suggestion. I've had a look at the layer one in the layer view in both 13.06.4 (with Fix horrible Type B enabled) and 13.04. In both case with Raft, Exterior Support and Skirt count 1. Screen shots below. 13.04 still seems better for this model.

Probably something I'm doing wrong, but maybe not. Try as I might I can't get good results with 13.06.4 and this Ball in Box: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:106850 But no problem with 13.04. When I try with 13.06.4 no skirt is printed with line count set to 1, or 3 or 4 which I've also tried. Also the printing starts from the centre and works outwards. And before the outermost part is started the first z movement has been carried out. I had similar problems with this: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:33072 Thought that it might be a problem with the stl file so then tried the one referenced at the top of this. As that was not better I then tried using 13.04 - no problem. So, is it me, or 13.06.4?

May be worth pulling out the extruder drive knurled shaft and checking if there is some material residue in the knurling. If so, of course, is should be cleaned out.

Ahh. Thanks, illuminarti. Most, ahem, illuminating!

Now I'm embarrassed 'cos I can't remember. I guess that somehow it was involved in the Steam Engine beta.. I got into a muddle with 13.04 and Steam Engine Beta 2 and uninstalled both. As far as I can remember I found 13.05 in my Cura download folder (downloaded on 23 May) so I installed it. Certainly at the top of the Cura window is Cura - 13.05. But I can't find it on-line now.... Best I can do, I'm afraid.

As far as I can tell, when one makes selections in 'quickprint' and then change to 'full settings' the 'quickprint' settings are ignored. As a newbie I'd find it helpful if the 'full settings' reflected the 'quickprint' choices. Would help learning. Failing that is there somewhere a comparison list for PLA? I mean a list of the 'full settings' that 'quickprint' High quality, Normal quality and Fast low quality choices implement?

I may have misunderstood this setting completely as I was surprised to see the estimated build time REDUCE as I INCREASED the 'Minimal layer time'. Examples: Minimal layer time 5 seconds, estimated build time 1 hour 20 minutes Minimal layer time 7 seconds, estimated build time 1 hour 17 minutes Minimal layer time 10 seconds, estimated build time 1 hour 10 minutes How can this be?