valcrow
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Posts posted by valcrow
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Yes, ideally for a cleanly printable mesh you need to boolean. Cura attempt to slice it properly anyways if you have Fix horrible A on. (which is on by default). But better and more predictable if you provide a proper mesh for slicing.
I can't remember if it was C4D or another program that did this, but extruding text doesn't create a proper capped surface that welds onto the sides. If there are holes and non-matching topology it's going to give you problems.
Ideally for printing you need an entirely enclosed volume with no interpenetration and double faces.
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I'm was in the same boat as you, I got a UM2 1.5 years after getting the UMO.
It works pretty much the same but it's much more automated and menu driven. So the biggest change is really the mentality going from manual/tactile to auto. No spinning the gear in the back to frontload filament pressure, no decoupling the filament and yanking the filament. No tossing rubbish under the printbed. (because it rests on the bottom)
Half the settings are set on the UM2 rather than Cura. Such as filament diameter, temperature, retraction settings. So you'll have to get use to using machine profiles rather than setting those things in Cura.
The temperatures seem to be the same for me going from UMO to UM2. Everything else is very much the same. You can have multiple machine profiles in Cura so you can quickly switch between slicing for UM2 and UMO.
The best thing is how automated it is once it's setup. You can hit print and be relatively sure it'll do it's thing. You don't need to watch the first layer go down, preload pressure etc. When it's done it pops off the glass and you just start another one without worries.
There is a longer heating/cooling period for the heated bed however, but that's a tiny price to pay to not have to deal with tape.
As for printable upgrades, you can print this guy:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two
I usually don't fix things that aren't broke so I haven't tried it yet. But I've heard good things.
Oh and it's prettier.
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Do you have data for machine types? like the percentage of CURA users are Ultimakers, vs. other ones?
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Those are some nice graphs! Upvote! Thanks for sharing
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You can try increasing the "initial layer thickness" setting in cura to try and force more material on the first layer?
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Nice, joined
and +1 for FTL,And since we're on a 3D printing forum! 3D printed kestrel!
http://screenburn.kotaku.com/3d-printed-spaceship-from-faster-than-light-1566356141
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That's pretty cool, I'm glad you decided to make more focused, shorter videos.
You could probably slow down the print speed a little bit to obtain a better surface quality.
For airbrushing, don't be afraid to shoot out more paint. To each their own but usually the index finger on the airbrush trigger offers a little bit more fine control rather than the thumb. You should also consider printing an overspray background holder so you don't get your wall painted.
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I find blue tape with alcohol with a little bit of smooshing works better than heated buildplate for tiny parts. The tape has a tiny bit of give so even if it experiences some type of torque from the printhead it doesn't pop off as readily as glass.
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That's great tommy! Mine was not so successful I printed one of those cool spiral vases. My parents put water in with a flower and started leaking immediately... Glad to hear yours was water tight enough for a tree!
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Thanks guys,
Yup it's painted, I made 2, the first one was printed in red, but then i ran out so I painted this one.
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I made a piggy bank for a client based on their motors.
This is a product that it's based on
Printed in 5 parts and spraypainted red. Probably could have used a bit more cleanup though
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Thanks for the headsup, I got a newsletter too!
Too bad I just made an order not too long ago :/
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I'm not sure I would assume the pro version doesn't have a similar TOS on the rights grab.
People argue that they need that in order to share it within their servers on the cloud but I don't buy it. It's just kinda predatory.
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This came up a while ago on r/3dprinting, check out this thread on tinkercad:
Really nasty stuff.
@Gr5 You would retain the rights to your design technically, but they would have an irrevocable license to use, sell, modify or sub-license etc. your stuff. -basically all the rights that you have.
In terms of licensing, autodesk usually lets educational use of their software for free or deeply discounted. They are sometimes not compatible with the commercially licensed version or contain an internal tag that's created from educational versions.
If you are making commercial models, you need to be making them from the commercial version. Functionally they are exactly the same, but you aren't suppose to be making monies on the educational versions. They sometimes make them incompatible so companies can't use a bunch of educational licenses and one retail license and say they're legit.
Anyways I'm not a lawyer so take this with a grain of salt, but do read those TOS's especially the online cloud based ones.
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"Full testing is pending, but the particles are spherical and finely ground. We had that concern with our CFPLA because the carbon is chopped and rough, but have yet to see unnatural wear on our nozzle even after 6 months of exclusive use on our Printrbot Simple Metal. The steel filament is less abrasive than the carbon, but a bit more abrasive than standard PLA.
That being said, when discussing this issue, we've often heard the argument that 3PD nozzles are consumables, like spark plugs or filters in your car, that have to be replaced at a rate consistent with how often you drive, er, print. Not that that is an excuse to market a product that would destroy printers, which we would never do, but over time wear happens no matter what you are printing with.
TL;DR: Full testing is pending, but we don't expect this to be a major issue."
So i guess that's consistent with your carbon fiber woes... Think I'll wait to see on this one...
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Im slightly worried about grinding down the nozzle on these things... I mean if glowfill can wear down a nozzle I can't imagine what stainless powder can do.
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Currently playing Elite dangerous, and Blizzards Moba Heroes of the storm.
Waiting to see if DA:I will go on sale for black friday.. then get some good old ME3 style multiplayer in dungeon crawling style.
I guess steam doesn't really help there does it?
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Great idea! add me too!
steam = valcrow (I think)
What do y'all play?
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Wow look at that setup!!
That's incredibly cool! Looks trippy too.
From an audio noob: Why did you go with boxes rather than those spikey shapes I always see in audio booths?
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My UM2 squeeks sometimes on retraction, I think it's usually the filament (being a really glossy surface) squeeking against the plastic guide. Probably a similar thing going on here or rubbing against itself.
I can see how that can be infuriating though
Also I'd be paranoid about tangles! -
I usually prefer to print a test pattern and fine adjust according to how it prints.
You can try this thing:
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/bed-level-pattern#!comments
-So level your bed normally.
-Scale it up 2.0 slice with most commonly used settings.
-Start the print, and adjust the screws AS it prints making sure not to push on the buildplate too much while turning the knobs.
-If it doesn't stick, bed needs to go up, if it starts smooshing you'll see that too.
Lastly make sure that your "first layer settings" is not set to something smaller than your layer height. (except for 0) I was scratching my head like crazy for a day because it wouldn't stick no matter what I tried. Eventually I found out my first layer was 0.1mm while my layer height was 0.2mm which caused massive under extrusion and therefore no sticking.
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I think the approve post is to deal with the spam bots that plague a lot of forums. They know how to sign up and everything nowadays... so annoying.
But... what are you looking for help with? usually someone in the community knows. Unless its directly sales related.
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I think part of the problem is also these objects are really small. Your medallion is only 2x2cm The small letters are most likely smaller than your nozzle size which is why they aren't slicing correctly. Any details smaller than 0.5mm will generally not come out as intended.
You would have better luck with that medallion standing up with supports since detail is greater on the vertical axis.
As dim3ntioneer has suggested the firefly ship probably has some bad Geo, but also could be suffering from being too small as well. Can't see from that angle but it looks to be only about 2x4x4cm. Same limitation with the nozzle size.
and +1 for FTL,
Just bought UM2 after owning UM1 - What do I need to know?
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Huh now you tell me! You get those gunky blobs and the machine tries to yank out the whole thing through the bowden tube...
I quite like how it feeds the material automatically but not how it takes it out.