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valcrow last won the day on July 21 2016

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  1. I know there's a lot of properties and factors involved, but in your mind, what is the main factors that would make you choose GFPA6 over GFPP or vice versa?
  2. Have you tried the various support materials offered by Ultimaker on your materials? Does PVA or Breakaway supports work?
  3. Hi! Thanks for doing the AMA! There's a lot of composit materials coming out on the market now with CF being the most popular for strength, what specific advantages does Glass fiber have over CF? Thanks!
  4. 2 part, smooth-on type casting urethane will fit the bill. Very liquidy when mixed, like maple syrup (not that fake corn syrup stuff) Hardens in about 10 minutes and turns white after hardening.
  5. You can open up the speed settings by clicking on the little gear icon and adding the expert speeds. Set them all to the same if you like then. Looks quite nice though!
  6. It sounds like printing too cold. 185 is pretty cold for PLA unless you are printing really slow/low volume. If it's too cold and you're trying to push too much through that could explain the constant grinding. Try running at 210 or even 220 and see if its better for you.
  7. You should post a picture of the results of your atomic pull (the filament strands). That can usually give us enough info to determine if it's a PTFE problem. If it is the case that you do need to take it apart, I suggest getting a TFM coupler (the new UM2+ couplers) as they last a heck of a lot longer than the PTFE ones the UM2 came with. Also consider upgrading to n olsson block so you can change nozzles easy.
  8. Are you using the half spool of PVA? I think it might be caused by having the 2 materials too close to each other, try moving them physically as far away on the spool holder as possible then try to hit continue again.
  9. If you need a bit more rigid than Nylon but just as strong and heat resistant UM Polycarb works wonderfully. IMO it prints easier than Nylon (unless you're doing PVA supports) And for medium to small objects you can print PC on straight clean glass. Adhesion sheets for larger prints.
  10. There is an option, "support horizontal expansion" which can expand the little small areas for more reliable stickage. It may generate a lot of useless supports in your case though since this is a pretty big print, but try it out and see if it helps you. Triangle support is generally more stable I find than Zig Zag if you have it falling over all the time. Regardless it looks like a pretty sweet print even with the small fail.
  11. ABS is kinda rough. I would recommend using Ultimaker ABS (it doesn't warp and sticks onto glass) You need a small layer of glue not to help it stick, but to help it UN-STICK so it doesn't chip your glass plate upon removal of your part. Most other ABS I've tested have similar results as you describe. It works up till a certain point and then warps away if the part is of any decent size. Only a full enclosure will help with this type of ABS or you'll have to resort to kapton + abs slurry and that's kinda messy and not fun. Make sure your fans are off. Ultimaker ABS for some reason sticks rea
  12. Those were my thoughts too gr5. We're in contact with mfiset over e-mail. Looks like manual level did the trick for anyone out there with the same issue.
  13. Oh that's a bit close. I usually go about 0.23 and often that's too close. Anything .15 and under will end up welding itself to the print unless it's ABS or something that doesn't like to stick to itself.
  14. You just have to reverse the loading process. Unlatch the tension thing, (the black thing that clips onto the knurled bolt). -Heat the temperature to 100C (assuming PLA, hotter if you need to pull too hard) -And then pull the filament from the back. -And that's it!
  15. What was your Z-distance between your support interface and your object?
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