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valcrow last won the day on July 21 2016

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  1. I know there's a lot of properties and factors involved, but in your mind, what is the main factors that would make you choose GFPA6 over GFPP or vice versa?
  2. Have you tried the various support materials offered by Ultimaker on your materials? Does PVA or Breakaway supports work?
  3. Hi! Thanks for doing the AMA! There's a lot of composit materials coming out on the market now with CF being the most popular for strength, what specific advantages does Glass fiber have over CF? Thanks!
  4. 2 part, smooth-on type casting urethane will fit the bill. Very liquidy when mixed, like maple syrup (not that fake corn syrup stuff) Hardens in about 10 minutes and turns white after hardening.
  5. If you need a bit more rigid than Nylon but just as strong and heat resistant UM Polycarb works wonderfully. IMO it prints easier than Nylon (unless you're doing PVA supports) And for medium to small objects you can print PC on straight clean glass. Adhesion sheets for larger prints.
  6. ABS is kinda rough. I would recommend using Ultimaker ABS (it doesn't warp and sticks onto glass) You need a small layer of glue not to help it stick, but to help it UN-STICK so it doesn't chip your glass plate upon removal of your part. Most other ABS I've tested have similar results as you describe. It works up till a certain point and then warps away if the part is of any decent size. Only a full enclosure will help with this type of ABS or you'll have to resort to kapton + abs slurry and that's kinda messy and not fun. Make sure your fans are off. Ultimaker ABS for some reason sticks rea
  7. Version 1.0


    Need a new sturdy custom camping knife? Why not save a bunch of money by buying raw blades, and customizing it with your own handles. It's cheaper, custom fit to your hands and you get to 3D print things.
  8. I don't know about S3D but it sounds like you need to raise your bed a little bit (untighten each leveling screw about 1/3-1/2 turn. The lines on the first layer should certainly be touching without fudging of the settings.
  9. Wow this was a while ago, so not even a 2+. The 2+ is easily capable of producing as good if not better results. than these. I print almost exclusively under 150 microns. Only in weird cases will I go greater (if its transparent material) The general settings I use are: 210C +-10 degrees depending on layer height and speed. 60C bed 45mm/s Really nothing all that special. How are your prints failing? maybe there is an underlying problem somewhere, I'm quite confident that a new UM2+ is able to produce these results out of the box. What slicer you use? can you please share your sett
  10. Which is the longest failed print you've ever experienced? For any reason, not only power loss. (this question goes for everyone) I've had one of these guys fail at 40 hours (46 hr print) Support fell over causing a big X shift. This one was a 36 ish hour one. (Not really that huge (in volume) but layer height was like 0.09) Eventually I had to re-do it with a bigger nozzle to drop the time down. Failed because of support design flaw (me) But final print was quite pretty. I've had a few airplane parts fail too, which are like 60 micron prints at the full EXT size. 30ish hour print
  11. We use UPS's on a regular basis for the printers. Can't let those 40 hr print timelapses fail or we loose days! we found 2x 2's with heated beds and 1x go is the limit before the UPS starts to whine.
  12. Those are nice curves and steps not present
  13. I have also tried this on a UP plus, Upbox, and the problem occurs on there as well. I also tried a UMO(non+) which has a different board and it happens there as well. I made a few specific test pieces for this issue specifically https://www.youmagine.com/designs/curve-test-print
  14. I think Chrii has a hack to correct this. We chat on chat about it sometimes. pinging @chri
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