Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


  • Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


valcrow last won the day on July 21 2016

valcrow had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

144 Excellent


About valcrow

  • Birthday 01/02/2015

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
    Ultimaker Original
  • On The Web

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. 2 part, smooth-on type casting urethane will fit the bill. Very liquidy when mixed, like maple syrup (not that fake corn syrup stuff) Hardens in about 10 minutes and turns white after hardening.
  2. valcrow

    Nylforce Carbon Fiber- Fiber Force (Italy)

    You can open up the speed settings by clicking on the little gear icon and adding the expert speeds. Set them all to the same if you like then. Looks quite nice though!
  3. valcrow

    Filament Grind (getting super frustrating)

    It sounds like printing too cold. 185 is pretty cold for PLA unless you are printing really slow/low volume. If it's too cold and you're trying to push too much through that could explain the constant grinding. Try running at 210 or even 220 and see if its better for you.
  4. valcrow

    Feeder Skipping--No Solutions?

    You should post a picture of the results of your atomic pull (the filament strands). That can usually give us enough info to determine if it's a PTFE problem. If it is the case that you do need to take it apart, I suggest getting a TFM coupler (the new UM2+ couplers) as they last a heck of a lot longer than the PTFE ones the UM2 came with. Also consider upgrading to n olsson block so you can change nozzles easy.
  5. valcrow

    Error message ' Too many new materials....'

    Are you using the half spool of PVA? I think it might be caused by having the 2 materials too close to each other, try moving them physically as far away on the spool holder as possible then try to hit continue again.
  6. valcrow

    ABS wont stick on UM3

    If you need a bit more rigid than Nylon but just as strong and heat resistant UM Polycarb works wonderfully. IMO it prints easier than Nylon (unless you're doing PVA supports) And for medium to small objects you can print PC on straight clean glass. Adhesion sheets for larger prints.
  7. valcrow

    Support infill suggestions?

    There is an option, "support horizontal expansion" which can expand the little small areas for more reliable stickage. It may generate a lot of useless supports in your case though since this is a pretty big print, but try it out and see if it helps you. Triangle support is generally more stable I find than Zig Zag if you have it falling over all the time. Regardless it looks like a pretty sweet print even with the small fail.
  8. valcrow

    ABS wont stick on UM3

    ABS is kinda rough. I would recommend using Ultimaker ABS (it doesn't warp and sticks onto glass) You need a small layer of glue not to help it stick, but to help it UN-STICK so it doesn't chip your glass plate upon removal of your part. Most other ABS I've tested have similar results as you describe. It works up till a certain point and then warps away if the part is of any decent size. Only a full enclosure will help with this type of ABS or you'll have to resort to kapton + abs slurry and that's kinda messy and not fun. Make sure your fans are off. Ultimaker ABS for some reason sticks really well and doesn't warp that much in an open environment. Probably some voodoo magic in it.
  9. valcrow

    Bad leveling ?

    Those were my thoughts too gr5. We're in contact with mfiset over e-mail. Looks like manual level did the trick for anyone out there with the same issue.
  10. valcrow

    Support infill suggestions?

    Oh that's a bit close. I usually go about 0.23 and often that's too close. Anything .15 and under will end up welding itself to the print unless it's ABS or something that doesn't like to stick to itself.
  11. valcrow

    changing filament umo

    You just have to reverse the loading process. Unlatch the tension thing, (the black thing that clips onto the knurled bolt). -Heat the temperature to 100C (assuming PLA, hotter if you need to pull too hard) -And then pull the filament from the back. -And that's it!
  12. valcrow

    Support infill suggestions?

    What was your Z-distance between your support interface and your object?
  13. Don't use the sheets with PLA or ABS, I've tried most of the materials and it works best for Nylon and polycarbonate. If you level just a touch further than normal, you part should stick very well, but it should be removable without destroying the sheet with a palette knife or similar. PLA/ABS and sometimes CPE will bond so well onto the sheet that you're almost guarenteed to rip it off and you'll have to sand it off the bottom of your part and replace the label. As for removing the sheet it's best to soak in water for a bit, and then start at a corner and peel it under water. You should be able to get most of the sheet and adhesive off like that unless you have holes all over your sheet. If you have leftover adhesion, scrape the glue underwater with a palette knife and it should do the trick. When applying the sheets, always use a bit of water. it makes it MUCH easier with less bubble mess.
  14. valcrow

    Improving Print Quality

    I would drop "initial layer thickness" to whatever your layer height is. Just be sure to level correctly and it'll get rid of the elephants foot at the base. I find, if the difference is too great between your infill speeds and exterior wall speeds, you get inconsistent walls. I would drop speeds to the following: infill - 40 outer shell - 30 inner shell - 35 If you have lots of time to kill and are just going purely for quality, make everything 35. You can probably increase your layer height a bit to compensate. Lastly, white is not a good colour for this kinda thing. White has always been the most inconsistent colour, making z-striations the most visible.
  15. Are there teeth marks on the filament? There should be some diamond shapes pressed into the filament from the feeder gear wheel. The most common problem I see with new UMO users is they don't latch the feeder properly causing no tension to be put onto the filament. Check this part of the video to see how the latch is suppose to be locked. This is an older UMO so it will look different than a UMO+ but the concept is the same. You need to squeeze the two parts together and then drop the black dangly latch down to lock it in place. This may seem obvious to seasoned users but I've seen a bunch of people not do this correctly causing problems right from the get go.

Important Information

Welcome to the Ultimaker Community of 3D printing experts. Visit the following links to read more about our Terms of Use or our Privacy Policy. Thank you!