nick-foley
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Posts posted by nick-foley
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Makergear sells them. They have a female thread, however, so you'll need to purchase the brass M6 tube they sell and either cut it down or replace the UM brass tube with it.
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Well, I decided to open up the fan in order to clean out whatever was inside and lubricate the sleeve bearing. Turns out that the real problem (though the fan was dirty) was that one of the power wires was on the verge of breaking (from the abuse mentioned above) and only occasionally conducting electricity. Re-soldered those connections (Also oiled it for good measure) and now the fan works as new.
...Which is good, because after searching for a few minutes online.... finding a replacement fan seemed challenging.
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Something is assembled wrong, and your prints look bad because you're underextruding. Make sure you're doing the tightening of the hotend while the entire assembly is hot - I crank it up to 250ish when getting everything snug. Make thermal expansion your friend.
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The fan on my main PCB is getting noisier and noisier, and sometimes is so dirty that it can't even get spinning fully. It usually takes a few hard knocks in order to get up to speed. This is a heavily used machine and I'm sure it's dusty and filled with PLA bits. It's also taken some abuse from the learning curve of assembly and maintenance of the machine. Anyway...
Anyone know of a drop-in replacement that I can order from Amazon/Mouser/etc...? Particularly one which is as quiet or quieter than the original...
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I think the ball bearings would perform very poorly in linear motion. It would probably be better to put them on the outside of a thinner linear bearing... but regardless, I think this is a fairly well solved problem with the current solution.
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This is awesome, would love to try something similar. Let us know how it goes!
Do you have the fans wired in parallel using the stock wiring? Or something else?
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Beautiful setup. Is it a peristaltic pump or something else?
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Absolutely amazing design. Very exciting stuff. Would love to help get it going on an Ultimaker. I don't have any printers with 3 sets of extruder electronics... and while I would love to spend the time to get this going on one of my machines, realistically, I'm probably too busy for that.
Regardless, 1) I have now designed several hotend mounts/printheads for Ultimakers that I think are semi-decent, 2) I would love to put some mechanical design time into making a mount for this hotend on an Ultimaker, and 3) could likely do it fairly quickly. Maybe someone wants to collaborate (in the NYC area or remotely) and get this going? Someone who is crazy eager and has the time and the machine to do some exciting stuff with quad extrusion?!?!
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You'll want to lubricate the axes with light oil when you return, as it is likely the small amount that is on there now will harden while you're gone.
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That article is just sensationalism, because it admits that the levels emitted from printing are similar to burning a scented candle.
I'm sure there's still a lot to learn about the safety of 3D printing, but that article doesn't contribute much to that quest.
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It may not be your PID settings at all.
Depending on your physical printhead setup, the problem may actually be from EM interference in your thermocouple wires. Unlike a thermistor, the thermocouple signal is extremely weak/sensitive prior to being processed by the thermocouple PCB. If your thermocouple wires (the unshielded yellow/red portion of them) are running near (closer than 10mm-ish) your fan wires at any point, you will see flicker in your temperature readings whenever the fan is on, due to induced current in the wires. On one of my Ultimakers (not with an E3D, but a custom printhead) , this was enough to cause the hotend to repeatedly fail, because it would rapidly flicker +/- 30°. Inevitably, extrusion would fail - usually starting around the 5th layer or so, when the fan got up to full speed, because the hotend would be too cool even though the firmware didn't know it. This was a frustrating problem to debug, and I only discovered this cause a few days ago.
Moving the fan wire a few cm away from the thermocouple wire until it passes through the thermocouple PCB solved the problem completely. I may also shield the full length of yellow/red portion of the thermocouple wires.
It does not seem that the heater wires are causing interference with the TC wires. It is likely the PWM signal going through the fan wires which was causing the problems.
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Nick,
Please update your ABS-without-heated-bed status. Sill going OK?
Still printing directly on the Acrylc?
No blue tape?
No Kapton tape?
Don't fancy trying to print directly onto my Acrylic plate as it's warped. I'm now printing PLA onto blue tape covered 6 mm thick glass clamped to the Acrylic plate. or with diluted PVA adhesive instead of blue tape.
Mike.
I ended up switching back to PLA for the time being. ABS was working fine, and prints were actually cleaner because retraction works better with ABS on this hotend. Regardless, PLA is just a lot easier to print without a heated bed, so that's where I've stayed. Mostly using in Printbl Banana Yellow because its super low viscosity allows for very high throughputs when printing large things quickly.
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Ordered!!!! Thanks!
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Yo PrintedSolid! When are you getting in some XT that I can order? I'm jonesing!!! I need to print some clearish stuff!
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This stuff is looking great... I saw a lot being used at Maker Faire and stupidly didn't try to purchase any on the spot...
... Is there a US distributor for it?
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Yeah, I'm going to agree with the others here - if you want to initiate a quality contest, you need some better photos. Get a friend with a decent camera. Any low-end DSLR is fine. Probably most point-and-shoots would also be fine.
I'll take some more photos of my robot if I get a chance, but I'm headed to China for several weeks, so that may not happen for a while. Regardless of that, though, there are some prerequisites to me spending any more time on this 'quality test'. You need to post: 1) better photos, 2) the name of the other printer, and 3) the print speed, layer height, and material of the other printer.
So far, you've asked for a lot, and given a lot of criticism... but you haven't given anything back or offered any suggestions towards a better design. If you ask people to put in effort, you need to offer some reciprocity, otherwise, like I said before on the other forum: you're just an internet troll, lobbing baseless criticisms and making claims that you can't substantiate.
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Yeah, endcaps are a real PITA regarding noise and assembly. I want to rebuild my axes to use printed internal spacers, like the UM2 does. It also uses flanged bearings so there's no risk of bearings coming loose once the internal spacers are installed.
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With most shapes you're going to get the most structural benefit from just thickening your walls instead of changing your infill pattern. Additionally, infill doesn't really contribute as much strength as it could - not because of its shape directly, but because often those thin, intersecting interior walls don't have as great of layer adhesion as the thicker outer skins.
Like gr5 suggested, I very rarely print with infill, because I find it faster, stronger, and more reliable to simply print with thick walls (2-4mm).
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Yeah this is a PITA.
I think I'm going to cut a new bed, using a lasercutter to etch a shallow counterbore for the head of the screw to drop in to at the end of the slots. You could probably achieve the same thing with a drill bit.
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Just tried the 13.09 Pre-Release and it was causing some very aggressive jumps on the first few layers of my print... to the point that it would skip steps and end up printing layers all over the place. Not sure what's up. Print is now going fine with the same settings using 13.07 ST2.
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I'm saying underextrusion comes and goes. When it comes I feel the filament not being pulled so to me it's a feeder issue.
???... Obviously, if the filament is being blocked in the nozzle, it is absolutely not the material feed mechanism's fault that it can't force material into the machine anymore.
It sounds to me like the problem is related to an improperly assembled or damaged hotend. Have you thoroughly cleaned it, as was suggested? That would also be a good chance to confirm that everything was coming together properly as well.
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Picture seems broken, but I'm assuming you're trying to print it vertically? It sounds like the part isn't cooling enough. Does the part seem to be coming loose from the bed at all during the print? That could also be a problem.
For a print where I care about the quality, I would print slower, in the 40-80mm/s range, lower my temperature, and reduce my layer thickness.
I would try 70mm/s, .1 or .15 layers, 200-210°-ish temp, depending on the PLA.
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I guess one other thing I would try is swapping your Z stepper driver PCB with the PCB from a different axis that isn't showing this problem. That would at least allow you to clear the stepper driver of guilt.
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Maybe it's skipping steps? You could try upping your stepper current, which is a fairly easy operation of turning the potentiometer on your Z motor driver PCB very slightly counterclockwise.
Optimal Setting UM1 for high detail prints
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
When I'm trying to flatout maximize quality I print at 0.06mm layers, 30mm/s speed, and the lowest temperature I can - which depends on the filament. With Printbl/Diamond Age PLA I can print in the 190-195° no problem. With Ultimachine I'm finding it needs to be a bit higher, more like 210-215°. The stock PLA is probably closer to the Ultimachine temps but it's been a while.
The prints take a while, but I generally don't mind - Start the print, go to sleep, go to work, come home to something perfect.