nick-foley
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Posts posted by nick-foley
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Cura 13.07 Support Test 2 is the latest beta build and in most respects is a pretty big improvement from earlier versions:
http://software.ultimaker.com/Cura_closed_beta/
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Looking at a model I'm slicing right now, it does appear that Cura doesn't consider the outermost perimeter loops as acceptable regions to comb through, and so, as a result, it has no other option but to jump across the model to reach areas separated by touching outer perimeter loops.
Not optimal in your case, but maybe not the worse case scenario either, considering the large-ish amount of oozing that happens during long comb moves anyway.
BTW, your STL link is broken.
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This print seems plenty doable. And I don't think your hotend is leaking - I think it was just melting a green PLA wig all night long and picked up some material along the way.
When I'm printing a tall object with a small base, I either use a large brim, or I peel off the blue tape and smoosh the first layer right into the acrylic itself.
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It sure looks like something related to the Z screw - maybe the brass nut is too tight and doesn't have enough room to wiggle side to side as necessary during printing.
I get results sort of like this now if I try to print at the volume limit of the nozzle. What is your layer height, speed, and temp?
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Yeah, I've been eyeing some MIC-6 from McMaster for a while. I guess it would be a good purchase if I ever wanted to add a heated bed as well. It's cheaper than CF, too.
Seems like you'd need a pretty nice probe to digitize the bed, but I'm sure people are doing it regularly in some industry. I have a 6 axis fabrication robot and we do something similar when milling irregular objects, though that is with a few less decimal points of precision.
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We're getting ready to print several hundred small parts on one of our machines, and one thing that is being obnoxious is the subtle curvature of the acrylic build platform. The parts all have critical tolerances, and so printing with a thick first layer is not possible, and depending on the part's location on the bed, it seems there is a 0.1ish variation in first layer thickness, which makes getting all copies reliably stuck to the bed a more tedious process than I would like.
I know there are plenty of people on this forum who are doing high volume printing - what are you using for a build platform? Aluminum? CF? Acrylic that just happens to be flat? Just dealing with it?
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With ABS we get the best results from using a raft with very thick lines (0.7mm-ish) in both directions, and ensuring that the first layer really gets smashed down to the bed.
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No, the problem for me isn't that the wires have broken at all - it's that the crimp pins have worked themselves loose and no longer make reliable contact. It first presents itself as a noticeable "flicker" in the reported temperature logs, and then amplitude of the spikes gradually increase until min and max temp errors get thrown up.
Though while we're on the subject, I'm sure it wouldn't break the budget for them to use continuous flex-rated conductors here.
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I agree, a more robust connector should be used instead of the JST. This is a very obnoxious problem that is also a very easy problem to solve at the time of manufacture. I may just solder mine when my second set of connectors starts to become loose.
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I see that on my stock pulleys too. Wouldn't worry about it
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Ahhh I wish. I've been out of the green for a while. So has Jordan @ Printbl, unfortunately.
The purple is definitely awesome... I have some in my machine right now and am getting prints so perfect that I can see the moire pattern of the stepping resolution x the 0.06mm layer height.
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"Bowden Popping"
You need to either: 1) print a thicker bowden-retaining clip and use it, or 2) re-tighten your hotend thumbscrews with more pre-loading compression on the bowden tube.
Should be an easy fix.
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It's definitely over-extruding. You can tell by the ridges between your infill on the top layer. Over extruding also just tanks your print quality because retraction never works properly. It does sound like you might have some dirty nozzle/clogging issues, but those could also be due to the overextrusion which may have been grinding your filament, which can then cause clogs when it makes it to the hotend. If I were in your situation, I would:
- Change your filament diameter in Cura to reduce extrusion by around 20% (It's much easier to work your way up from under-extrusion than it is to work your way down from over-extrusion, because unless you're measuring your parts with calipers, slight over-extrusion is hard to detect)
- Open up the filament drive and pull out all of the filament that is in the bowden and hotend, discard it.
- Reassemble the filament drive with fresh filament, and increase drive spring tension 1-2 full turns.
- Reduce your initial layer thickness to .2 or .15. Too thick of a first layer will make it harder to diagnose other problems.
- Send a print with a large skirt with many lines. Adjust the bed height by manually turning the Z screw until you get good skirt lines coming down, and then micro-adjust with the leveling screws until the skirt layers are uniform across the bed.
If none of that worked, I would probably try to clean out the nozzle. But, speaking from experience, hot end disassembly is a can of worms that often leaves you in a worse place than you started. So be careful.
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Hah, yeah. I've popped off a few of those. They aren't exactly located in a safe place. Gluing it back in with thermal adhesive is easy enough. Amazon also has self-adhesive 10mm copper heatsinks which are pretty cheap, and if you carefully fit them between the electrical contacts they are a drop-in replacement.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00637X42A/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Awesome. Thanks! I guess I need to make meshlab a regular part of my workflow.
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No luck. Just tried all possible STL repair checkbox combinations and none of them prevented the problem from happening.
I guess, for now, I'll clean the print up manually.
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There's nothing red showing up in X-ray mode... I'll play around with those boxes then.
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I am trying to print what is more or less a vertically oriented tube, and about halfway though the print, Cura tries to add a fully filled layer of material over the entire volume (ie it is printing rings, and then all of a sudden, it tries to print a disc). It is only happening when i slice with thin layers, but for this print, thin layers are exactly what I need.
See the below screenshot for what Cura is doing:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/hnjm4jauzgpke9x/Capture3.PNG
I've checked the STL in several programs and there is nothing in the model file that should be making it do this. Here is a link to the STL (64mb file) for anyone who wants to replicate the issue:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/3pnewmxhwqgppxc/Open%20Sonnar%20v0.10.STL
Anyone know why this might be happening?
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I get this error all of the time when I try to slice high-poly models (50mb+) at a thin layer height (0.1 or lower)
It didn't happen before the SteamEngine upgrade. Anybody figure out how to get rid of this problem?
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I haven't used pronterface, but the Ulticontroller gives you far more control of your print in progress than Cura does.
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Good call. Cura should do a better job of overcompensating on extrusion rate when infill is faster than skin speed. Extrusion frequently doesn't keep up. I always keep infill speed set to 0 so that it matches perimeter speeds for this exact reason.
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Finished the upgrade, happy with the print results and the simplicity of the machine. As I worried, however, the machine is definitely louder now. The steppers have a high-pitch whine which they didn't used to have. The motion system itself is very smooth and easy to move, and the motors are mounted to the frame just as rigidly as they were previously, so I suspect the noise is coming from the steppers resonating through the 8mm axes.
Has anyone experienced this?
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Yeah, i've struggled with this from time to time. It has a lot to do with the viscosity of filament when melted. It also has to do with a nonlinear relationship between extrusion force and amount of material extruded. I would try raising the temp 10°and lowering your infill speed 20mm/s. If that solves the problem, you can probably try to find a middleground somewhere faster and cooler.
Generally speaking, though, it looks like your print is underextruding regardless of the infill qualtiy. I would try raising the temp and increasing your flow rate until your solid sections are printing with good density, and then tackle the infill problem. You may end up solving both at once.
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New Extruder, blocks, &?
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
Spent a bunch of time checking it out at Maker Faire today. It's an awesome machine, but I'd say most of the improvements are cosmetic or very slightly incremental... apart from the Heated bed. Part quality didn't seem to be any higher than the already high UM1 standard. The purely snap-fit for the 6mm axles blocks seem like a useful improvement that hasn't been introduced as a user upgrade to the UM1, and I may integrate that feature into some of the XY blocks I've designed.
Anyway, I didn't walk away feeling like I was missing anything, having upgraded my UM1's extensively. If I were to buy a UM right now, it would absolutely the UM1, as a kit.