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bingobob

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Everything posted by bingobob

  1. I never have good results with retraction. I prefer cleaning up the mess afterwards or it tends to under or over-extrude at critical points. Another source of your problem could be that with multiple needles, the layers have much longer to cool down between successive writes. Maybe you could try enclosing and heating the inside of the ultimaker to prevent layer temps dropping too much.
  2. That wouldn't help in this case because Cura isn't even generating any gcode. There doesn't seem to be a button for "Prepare" so I presume it does this in the window that is hanging.
  3. I personally think it's pretty suspicious that there is no trial version of the Netfabb software for ultimaker. No way I'd spend money on a product with such ambivalent reviews without being able to try it first. Reading this thread is the nail in the coffin, as far as I'm concerned. Cura is OK. The only thing I liked the look of in Netfabb was the support structure. The one in Cura is too inflexible and I just end up designing my own support structures into the model.
  4. Did you upgrade the firmware, though? Or are you using the firmware from 14.01 with 13.12? Looks like I am having the same issue as you.
  5. I went back to Cura 13.04 (on XP) and it works fine, even with the newer firmware. I guess I'll wait for Cura 14.02.
  6. I just upgraded to Cura 14.01. Did the firmware upgrade. I loaded my model, pressed print and a blank window with the title "Printing" comes up and that's it. Nothing happens. Am I missing something? In the meantime, I'm going back to Cura 13.04 - I hope it still works. Thanks. /edit: In the end I force the window to close and it tells me that Pythonw.exe was non-responsive.
  7. It looks like it doesn't like that overhang at all. And there's some major warping going on on your first layer. That raft is huge. By the time the print head has finished with it, it'll have changed temperatures several times if you're using a heated bed. Have you tried printing directly onto the kapton tape with ABS glue and no bed heating at all? What is your head speed? What results do you get if you use my settings? Can you post your printing parameters?
  8. Spend some time getting the bed level. First you need to know if your glass is flat. Just use a ruler or something to see if is or not. If not, then you'll never get a good print over a large area like that. Have a level bed is essential in getting a good first layer. If the bed is too low then the ABS will blob and the head will push it around. That looks like what has happened in your print.
  9. No, I just grab the sleeve that connects the motor to the screw and turn it with my fingers. Once it's adjusted for the first layer, you don't have to touch it after that. How flat is your glass? Have you put a straight edge on it? The first bit I used was completely bent in every direction. I went and bought some 4mm stuff that was perfectly flat.
  10. What does your very first layer look like? It looks like it might be starting to print too far above the bed. If the first layer isn't good then the rest will fail. I always print a double skirt around the object and while it's printing that I manually turn the Z-axis so that the first layer is being pressed solidly into the bed. I raise the bed too far and it stops extruding (no space to extrude) then lower is slightly so that the line it is printing is nice and flat, not like a bead. I don't understand why yours is blobbing like that. Are you using some odd ABS? Looks fluorescent in your ph
  11. Can you take a photo of the problem closer up? Difficult to make anything out in that photo.
  12. If it was a bed levelling problem, I would only expect the first layers to be bad. It does look like it's overextruding. Are you using retraction?
  13. Are you using cooling? If so, try not cooling. I get poor layer adhesion if I cool too quickly - or at all. You could also try printing at a higher temperature, with a slower head speed. Maybe increase the amount that is extruded by lowering the value of the filament diameter.
  14. Good to know. Thanks. I much prefer the mechanical properties of ABS to PLA. I find that the layers bond better, too. Plus you can finish the surface reasonably nicely, depending on the part you want. I have also found that for long flat parts like the one you describe you can print directly onto the glass with the ABS goo. It doesn't stick as well as on Kapton, but you get a beautiful mirror finish to the bottom layer from the glass. I don't have any heat control on my PCB. I need to wire something up. At the moment it's all or nothing. What do you use to control the temp? Thanks.
  15. It's physically unplugged. Even with very low fan speeds, there is a large amount of warping and cracking between layers. I think by not cooling and printing relatively slowly the material remains at its glass transition temp longer and kind of self-anneals if that makes any sense. I think the cooling depends a lot of what kind of part you are printing. When I printed the thin-shelled ABS fan duct (see above) I used cooling and that printed just fine. I still haven't really got my head around the science of it. The only thing I can think of left to try is enclosing the print volume and hea
  16. Another successful print with this method:
  17. Also, I keep a soldering iron handy, heated to 250°, ready to weld the raft back down if it starts to peel up. You can see where I did that in this photo:
  18. I'm still experimenting, but the best results I have had so far are with these parameters: [profile] filament_diameter = 2.97 nozzle_size = 0.4 wall_thickness = 0.8 retraction_enable = True layer_height = 0.1 solid_layer_thickness = 0.8 fill_density = 100 print_speed = 50 print_temperature = 255 print_bed_temperature = 70 support = None enable_raft = False filament_density = 0.88 skirt_line_count = 2 skirt_gap = 4 retraction_min_travel = 2 retraction_speed = 30 retraction_amount = 2 retraction_extra = 0.0 travel_speed = 100 max_z_speed = 3 bottom_layer_speed = 30 cool_min_layer_time = 15
  19. Thanks for that, but my problem is not getting the parts to stick to the bed. In fact with the heated bed, the Kapton tape and the ABS goo the problem is getting the part off the bed afterwards! My problem was the deformation at different levels. I have made significant progress in this and the other problems I was having printing ABS and I am now much more confident about printing in ABS. More so than PLA which I have noticed also shows similar deformation, albeit less significant that in ABS. Here is the above part printing correctly now: The finished print: And the smoothed finishe
  20. Extremely interesting stuff. *subscribed*
  21. OK, that print above turned out like this: The warping in the support structure wasn't limited to the support structure, but you can see where the wall of the cylinder has pulled in. I printed this part again but instead of having a fill ratio of 20% I used 100% and the the print was MUCH better. Much less deformation. Even on the support structure which is a bit odd. I realised that the support structure on the right was more deformed than on the left and I realised it was due to the standard fan ducting which blows more air to that side of the print (the nozzle not being centered on the
  22. Thanks to mrjohnk's post of his ABS printing parameters in this thread: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/1789-retraction-and-blobs/ I was able to print an object in ABS that is the most successful that I have so far achieved. I think it's worth repeating those parameters here for anyone struggling to print in ABS. I was experiencing a lot of blobbing, cracking and warping and thanks to those parameters, the first 2 at least are greatly improved. I was getting a lot of failed prints from the first layer coming unstuck, but by not using the Cura raft and printing a
  23. I'm so jealous. I just can't get my ultimaker to print ABS properly. I'm trying your setting to see if that improves things, but I'm getting pretty depressed trying to get get *anything* to print properly.
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