Jump to content
Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts

scottvader

Dormant
  • Content Count

    10
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral
  1. Ignace is right. If you turn off spiralize in 14.09 it prints cleanly, ie uses that new feature correctly. on the left is 14.07 with spiralize on, on the right 14.09 with spiralize off, almost perfect in both cases: but the inside with spiralize off in 14.09 has messy hanging wiped material: easy enough to do a work around for now.
  2. Yes, there's no physical layers as it's changing z height continuously (spiralize mode under expert settings) but it does seem to occur about once ever layer thickness in z height. I posted the files to Youmagine: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/racing-vase
  3. First of all Daid, thank you. Cura is the best slicer out there! I've got most folks at my makerspace switched. I can confirm that bug. I just saw it yesterday running http://www.proto-pasta.com/shop/cfpla filled filament for the first time. Highly recommended by the way. The precision produced by this filament is stunning. It's new to 14.09, not there in 14.07: FYI, here's a https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByHl5gxPxiYCamZtOVY5SGFFemM/view?usp=sharing I use for testing and the https://drive.google.com/file/d/0ByHl5gxPxiYCbzgyRWV4dk1fVDA/view?usp=sharing used.
  4. These manual steps work well for me (no Ulticontroller) with just an outline. 1) Load the print file 2) press 210 C pre-heat button under the "temp" tab 3) when temp gets close, switch to "jog" tab 4) press extrude button until good PLA is flowing and the correct color if changing colors 5) clean the nozzle and remove dross, quickly to keep pressure in hotend 6) press print button 7) grab the Z axis and crank it while making the outline to crush the extruded bead to desired thickness ex to get .2 mm thick layer with .4 mm nozzle, crush down half the bead height, 0.1 mm with 0.4 mm crush
  5. Of course the best 3D printer company should start the best object repository. Gold standard for user interface should be Solidworks IMHO. Dassault may even help given companies like 3D Systems are bringing out competitive design products. Feature wishlist extrude, revolve, sweep, loft, fillet, shell, mirror and intersection. Tool to weld objects together. Common parts close at hand and easy to modify ex. hinges, gears, common motor mounts, joints (I just published a bayonet joint) High quality graphic feedback based on the target 3D printer, nozzle size and settings to show quality of su
  6. I'm running two blade nano RC helicopter tail rotors on the fan circuit. This is what I found out in doing it. The fan circuit has an NPN (low side) darlington transistor BD679 as a pwm circuit. That transistor is rated for 4 Amps. However, I couldn't get even 1 Amp from it due to noise problems that I couldn't solve. I put a 1K resistor across the connection and then built my own power control circuit using just the signal. I used a MOSFET and took power from the Ultimaker to run it. regards Scott Vader
  7. Such great work! I was going down the blower road suggested by BaasB but then realized we actually want high air flow with low mass. The frequent answer to that problem is a propeller. Here's my recent cooling system upgrade. The standard Ultimaker fan and duct weighs about 25 grams and pushes about 3 grams per second of air. This mod uses two Blade Nano RC helicopter tail rotors. They weigh under 3 grams each and they push about 9 grams of air per second each. So an order of magnitude more air. With the mass saved, I added a camera and still kept everything under 25 grams. Initial testing
  8. Hi Guys I'm new to the list. BaasB, such a great idea! I've been looking to upgrade the cooling system as well. I've looked at various ducts and some of my own using Solidworks Flow Simulation, sort of a computerized wind tunnel. Nick, your Tapir Shroud is one of the best. UPDATED, Sorry I had this wrong, now corrected: The fan circuit has an NPN (low side) darlington transistor BD679 as a pwm circuit. That transistor is rated for 4 Amps. However, I couldn't get even 1 Amp from it due to noise problems. I was able to put a 1K resistor across the connection and then build my own power contr
  9. I hope you'll tell me if this is bad form to extend this thread, I don't know the etiquette. My V2 hot end doesn't have the issue with the PEEK bushing that MrcDesign experienced. The flange on the brass pipe is tight to the PEEK bushing and the top of the brass pipe is tight to the teflon insulator. I did review the v4 extruder assembly instructions and now realize that I have a v3 extruder. I received my Ultimaker in March and it looks like v4 with the black injection molded strain relief came out in April. I'm a bit skeptical of whether that will ultimately solve the issue. The legris st
  10. Hi All My first post. Please excuse any missteps. I have a similar problem to MrcDesign. The bowden tube seems to back-out from the hot end easily. I took it apart and noticed it was chewed up a bit where the metal teeth in the white retaining collet are supposed to grip the 1/4" tube. I cut off half an inch to put fresh material in front of the teeth. Still didn't seem to grip. I did a temporary fix so I could keep printing by cutting a couple of flaps into the bowden tube kind of like gills on a fish that would hook the collet so it couldn't back out. That worked but it won't likely last
×
×
  • Create New...