carmamir

Yes I'm doing that Well first problems show's up after I finish print... Oozing is so big that I can't start print unless I extrude 20-30mm of filament, also in nozzle is building up some kind of blockage which after few tries will just get out.... There is problem with grinding (filament isn't pushed as bolt is just grinding filament)... I have problem with 1 particular PLA filament (no problem with ABS or original PLA)...

I don't have particular issues with handling 3mm, but it seems that lock from tightening roll is already too weak to make appropriate pressure on some filaments... So backing to questions is there any extruder drive for v3 ????

Well problem is that model already is created for UM... (thingverse, belt tensioners)...

lately I finished my heated bed. Used mirror on top of heating PCB (5mm, 220x220). I simple mirrored acrylic bed wholes on aluminum sheet (4mm, 250x250) then printed holders for glass+heating PCB with mounting for aluminum. Max would be 120 I think (ABS 110 around)...

Ok to be more precise extruder drive.... From description I think is clear that I want to change onto extruder drive which will handle without issue 3mm PLA/ABS... Current one isn't good for me (like most of parts on UM, I'm changing most of it including cr*** hot end block and axis blocks)... But I like light weight hot end...

4. I couldn't strings are there and you can use only different software so it won't go through printed area (I guess developer need to think about usability as one of most important parts of designing software, well I guess he missed that day on University when they talked about that ). Print3r can do it without problem ! I can't find solution for oozing (every time before I need to print I wait till it will be warm, then I taking excess from nozzle). Of course I will propose you to create own heated bed, blue tape, kapton etc. is very unreliable and you can't print with ABS on it... And ABS is really good (almost lack of oozing). Throw away bed from UM as it is useless, buy aluminum sheet 4mm, 250x250, drill wholes, change compression springs (provided are very weak) on something what generates more KG, then isolate aluminum sheet, add MK2A heated bed, add glass (22x22 is ok) add printed on ABS plastic holders of glass and heated bed, then use clips to mount it to aluminum bed. Of course add relay 12/24V 40A, connect it with UM board, then power source to heated bed and relay (do not connect source of power to UM, you simple can't, those components wont' hold current (I haven't checked shield for voltage, most ATmega works with 5V))... Change firmware on your UM so it will support heated bed.... And you're ready to go. Add heated chamber (print some hinges for acrylic sheets and mount it) Throw away fan case for electronic (it's some cheap china cr*** and will sound like some old tractor after 2 days), print new case, mount 50x50mm fan. Throw away fan mount from heat end and print in ABS new one.... For printing on PLA: - add 10 grams of PVA to some glass jar or what ever, add 100 grams of water, stir. Heat your bed to 55-60 degrees, put one layer of that mixture, after it evaporate add another (in total 4-5 layers) Heat bed to 60 degrees, print, after you finish give it time to cooler to around 30 degrees, it will fall off without issue For ABS - add around 10 grams of small pieces of ABS to jar, add around 80 grams of pure Acetone (use safety glasses, gloves and respirator mask (which will stop vapor gas and other chemicals, something what has commercial grade, not some simple gas mask from nearest shop) Heat bed to around 100 degrees, print and wait... UM is ok but technology is very far away from being well developed...

Well I noticed that lots of projects using precise wholes like for M3/M4 nuts... Unfortunately after adjustments my UM can't print precisely, not sure what I'm doing wrong... When it's coming to any wholes which should fit on rods, or anything else to 0.2mm I can't print it as it will be always in wrong size... Drives me crazy as now it prints really nice but useless as any object, model isn't precise... Any ideas ?? Hard for me to believe that UM can't print precisely enough for pretty common nuts like M3/M4....

Extruder. I'm glad that your is working fine. I'm looking for extruder, not hot end, not nozzle, extruder.

Recently after 2 weeks I got Ultimaker I start getting problems with extruder drive ;/, simple it isn't so tight like it should be (PLA 3mm as ABS 3mm seems to be free from those problems)... I noticed lots of nice extruders drives models on our favorite site... Now main question is which extruder drive will fit new Ultimaker V3 (end of July) ?? Most of those extruders drives is from last year... Appreciate any help

UM electronics is redesigned cheap Arduino board (with cheap ATMega 2560) with shield for motors... It isn't expensive, it is just well overpriced like everything in Ultimaker... (well I don't blame them, if I could have 300-400% margin on my products and people still would buy it, why not )... Nothing fancy, nothing expensive, just well overpriced. You need to use relay which will be controlled by UM and relay will "control" heated bed PSU... You can't connect PSU directly to UM... (same like you would like to connect directly motors to ATMega 2560 so it would control it directly , you may connect for example some low current receivers but nothing else)...

Like in topic, it should be possible (temp + ultrasonic), any one tried ???

Like above. I'm trying to make sure that I can print something else than cubes, but it keeps going off chart with size... Can set it right as while on center I managed to get 25.00 / 25.06 / 24.96 (still not great) but I tried to print on side and I got 24.76 / 24.85 Any one can tell me how to set it right so I can start printing something more complex... ???

False alarm... For some reason E steps were set to 6 instead of 800 or 500 (not sure I made failsafe restore)... I indeed played with settings steps for XYZ but even if I would made mistake on Z (typed E instead Z) it still should be much more then 6... Well it is working.

Well nozzle is fine, it's still gluing to nozzle and I can't stop it... Difficult to print anything as everytime I have roulette if it will stick to the bed... And it isn't problem of levelling it is just ***** ultimaker bed without heating. I have also much cheaper Prusa i3 and no problem at all... But I guess you're not always getting what you paid for... At this moment there is no reason to use it this way as most of prints going to bin (and we are talking about PLA, ABS can't be used with Ultimaker... I guess lucky guys they are not in UK as they would be sued for false advertising (heated bed is necessary for ABS not recommended) I just hate companies like that, hopefully for all of us soon someone will introduce something similar to Ultimaker but what would be with heated bed and better quality... Any way problem exists, PLA won't stick to bed for most of time (on 0.1mm is better, biggest problems I have on 0.2/0.3)... Few moments ago whole printer would just would start fire as start smoking from nozzle and hot end... Something after a week start pulling out cable from sensor and just disconnected it, Ultimaker developers had no idea that that can happened and they haven't prepared firmware for that problem, so hot end start increasing its temperature until around 300 and probably more, I have no idea as I immediately shut down that "printer" and thank god I were at the room with my girlfriend as normally I leaving that room (I'm using it as second office) and I wanted go to start barbecue so I would be alarmed by smoke alarm god know after what time.... I'm soft developer and I hate to see when some people developing product/service and can't look for possible problems and to make sure that those problems wan't occur... Is it really that hard to think ???

Like in topic. Today I start printing on kapton tape, after some tests I noticed that there is no filament extruded from hot end, I thought that I did wrong calibration of the bed and hot end is too close to bed... When I tried to remove ruined print I damaged tape so I had to remove everything (and I spent around 30 minutes to put it clearly on the bed)... Again I put blue tape, 3 times calibration of the bed and.... I noticed that extruder motor is not working, it do not respond during prints, also when I tried to extrude/retract on 210 it didn't worked as well (cura/printerface)... Now before I make warranty support (printer has less than a week) I want to make sure that problem is with motor not with electronics... Did any one had that problem before ?

Thanks. I used bluetape provided with kit. I will buy 50mm blue tape Tomorrow. Can I usa PVA instead of that alcohol ? I'm using it on other machines with heated bed and glass. I don't have any shop with that alcohol around me... BTW Can I clean nozzle from PLA in NaOH ?

Sure here is photo: http://s15.postimg.org/o38mr0yij/FAIL2.jpg I can't imagine how brass could be damaged by hitting PLA model. Well maybe I don't know appropriate techniques but any small models are coming off after few minutes top (on blue tape) where same models on heated bed on much cheaper printer are printed fine. Backing to topic. PLA will glue to nozzle on start, after 10-20 second it will leave it on bed (of course line printer around object looks like some dots made from PLA), then it will start printing few lines and when nozzle will go up and move into another place will leave some strings of PLA and again PLA won't stick to blue tape for x seconds as it will glue to nozzle... Something is really bad with nozzle and I can't understand how PLA could damage brass especially that on home position it will go down to bed straight into PLA which is coming off nozzle for 10-20 seconds before it starts printing (after it reach appropriate temperature PLA is coming from nozzle so when printer is ready it will put nozzle into big pile of plastic and go to it's position to start printing dragging huge string of PLA)....

It is a new nozzle. I got it 2 days ago...

Thanks, I will try it when I repair my Ultimaker (I posted new topic)... For now no printing for me :( (filament is gluing to hot end every time it's starting or retracting or moving over print, which destroys every print)...

So I wanted to print some parts, I left it and after 3 hours of printing one part just felt off and destroyed all other parts causing that hot end start hitting other parts and PLA were all over hot end.... Since that failure I can't print anything on Ultimaker... Every time PLA is sticking to hot end and no matter how much I tries to clean it up it will stick to hot end again, and again... I can't find information hot to clean hot end properly... And BTW why you're advertising Ultimaker as printer which can print in ABS ? It can't. Not hot bed no prints on ABS, PLA is very difficult to print on some models not mention ABS... And why Ultimaker is without hot bed ? I have another printers (cheap, under £600 kits) and all them has hot bed... I'm just asking as I'm very curious why you decided to save £10 and loose a lot of clients because of that...

Thanks for help. Looks like valid cause of my problems. I will try it on next time. Thanks for advice about selected design. Do you have any recommendations about replacament for current fan adaptor ?

I have kind of weird problem... http://s22.postimg.org/6s3f9zgpd/Clipboard01.jpg http://youtu.be/EMRfmumpnzc You can see on video what is happening when I tries to print: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:17768 Default normal settings on newest Cura. Not sure why, what is wrong as I made few other prints and all are fine (not so tall). I just got Ultimaker Yesterday and not sure what it can be cause of that problem... I appreciate any help. Thanks in advance.

Looking for settings for Prusa i3. Not sure how to set it as I saw some topic that GCode has to be changed... Maybe someone is using Prusa i3 with Cura... Thanks in advance.