Nicolinux

Hey guys, sorry for the cross post, but I thought I mention it here too. tl;dr New printer is way better. Extrusion test fails at 8-9mm^3/s now. http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/?p=40588

Hey guys, Ultimaker replaced my old UM2 (thanks!) and the new one just arrived. The first thing I did (after tightening the pulleys) was to print the extrusion test. (230°, 60° bed, with half empty spool on stock spool holder). Well I wish I had one of those machines illuminarti tested that refuse to fail, but no luck here. Maybe I'll just have to disassemble the head and put it back together (will definitely do - the 3rd fan drives me crazy - see below): It starts to underextrude at 8-9mm^3/s. I loosened the head screws a wee bit but this made the extrusion test worse (object on the far right). Then I installed Robert's fantastic low friction spool holder (link). Now it is a bit better. It starts to underextrude at 10mm^3/s with some visible artifacts from underextrusion at 9mm^3/s. Well it is actually a world's difference to the first printer. I can't complain. But if I wanted to complain, here are some small things I noticed (also feedback for Ultimaker - Sander if you are reading this, please realay it to whom it may concern): 1. Packaging The glass plate was stuck beneath the z-stage. This is a clever idea because this way it can't move and wouldn't break. But it is not possible to get it out without powering on the printer. And guess what happens when the first run wizzard tries to move the z-stage down :/ Well, it is possible to get the glass plate out - just by turning the threaded screw. But this isn't mentioned anywhere. Besides a new user wouldn't know that the first run wizzard will try to move the z-stage down. It makes a hell of a noise and you'd think your printer just destroyed itself... 2. Testprint Guys, if you really perform those test prints on the machines you ship, it might be a good idea to inspect them before shipping. Here's a side by side comparison of the test print from the first UM2 and the second one. Underextrusion is hard to miss on the first one... And by the way - how many test prints do you run on one machine? My test print was done with blue filament but the nozzle was full of green filament so clearly the last thing printed on my machine wasn't the test print. 3. Heated bed reverse logo I noticed that the heated bed has the Ultimaker logo engraved on the bottom. It is reflected on the aluminium plate but it is backwards. If you want to make it look cool, just flip the logo so it reflects correctly: 4. Stickers Finally, stickers in every box! Thanks! I dig the UM robot but the "photo stickers" look cheesy. Might want to go with an abstract illustration of the printer instead of a photo. 5. 3rd fan I hope it is not normal but my 3rd fan is loud as hell. It is either broken or pushed too hard against the aluminium wall. Check this out (volume up!) And now a few observations. Judging from the number on the box my first UM2 was shipped in, I had unit 349. The second printer seems to be unit 1434. And it shows. Here are some visible changes: New fans (brand name: Deep Cool :cool: ), spacers for the head screws, blue clips instead of red ones, and cushioning or something simmilar for the extruder motor. Not visible here but one can see it when peeking from the top. And now the printer is mostly free of black gunk that used to hang on the blackened parts of the case. Oh and the threaded rod doesn't wooble like before. And I don't know if the glass plates are coated with something special, but everything sticks like crazy (which is good). I even broke off a extrusion test cylinder when I took it off. Now if you'll excuse me, I need to print Robert's cable chain (link), I feel so naked without it :mrgreen:

@Illuminarti: The second issue with the bowden pressing too hard against the teflon piece - that's something that I experienced too: It might be hard to see, but the top of the teflon coupler is recessed a bit. I guess that's also how the lip formed inside the coupler where filament could hang on. I'd say it isn't a smart idea to tighten the metal piece where the teflon coupler sits on. This just jams it against the bowden tube and leads to deformations.

Wenn etwas super gut halten muss, dann benutze ich den Kleber und wische mit einen feuchten Tuch die Platte ab. Nur so viel dass der Kleber gut verteilt wird bis ein feiner, nicht mehr sichtbarer Film entsteht. Sonst drucke ich immer ohne Kleber. Mit dem Heizbett auf 60-65° hält fast alles gut.

Here it is: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3038-can-your-ultimakerultimaker2-print-such-quality

Glad it worked for you. Loosening the head screws was the _only_ thing I didn't try on my printer... (and now it is gone and will be replaced). And sir, you have some sexy spool reels there. Do they come with every colorfabb order?

Hey Skint, If in doubt, always perform a "parametric <insert_your_keyword_here>" search on thingiverse http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:193647 http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:31363/ http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:8793

Hey Ian, I hope you have more than the Ultimaker that keeps you alive... Also, there is always another option - selfemployment for example. It might be harder than jumping on the tracks (but less messy) and the rewards will pay off big time.

Hi, the flickering does not have anything to do with the extruder skipping. I remember Daid commenting on the issue (led flickering) and it was unrelated.

Hey Geeks, it's pretty easy. Check out this post(s). Sander mentioned that one can use the WD40 spray to help the filament through the bowden tube: http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/3976-almost-always-missing-layers-underextruding/?p=34338 It did not make a difference for me, but it didn't make things worse, so I'd say it is not bad

Yeah, it was me - but it didn't make a difference... Sander, by the way. Can the WD40 also be used to lubricate the x/y axis?

Hi Eddie, du kannst leider nicht mit 1.75 auf den Ultimaker drucken. Der Unterschied ist der Durchmesser des Filaments. Wobei 3mm müssen in Wirklichkeit auf jeden Fall unter 3mm sein. Das Filament von Ultimaker z.B. hat einen Durchmesser von 2.85mm - 2.90mm. Wenn es dicker ist, dann kriegst du Probleme dass es nicht durch den Bowden Schlauch passt. 1.75mm ist einfach eine andere Filament-Art. Diese ist für Drucker die dafür ausgelegt sind (Prusa Mendel i3 so weit ich weis - unter anderem).

Hey meshmixer, we are still grateful for this tool. Please keep it alive! It is one of the best/funniest tools I ever had the joy to use.

Also don't overtighten the extruder encasing. ABS is quite soft and might give in, increasing pressure on the passing filament.

Hey, I had the same problem. I then filed the inside of the teflon coupler a bit but it didn't change anything.

Hey Markus, I guess nobody tried your solution for these reasons: 1. The alterations to the machine are irreversible. If it turns out that it won't do any good, you don't have the choice to send it back to UM for replacement (that's my case - I sent my printer back - waiting for replacement now). 2. You'd need additional hardware. Again, if this turns out to be in vain, then the money is wasted. We are still not sure where this issue originates from. Also it is not clear how many users are really affected. Maybe it is just me, Woofy and Mr. Waldorf... You (successfully) treated the same symptomps but you may have had an entierly different problem. I've seen many posts with subpar extrusion tests. Some fail at 6mm^3/s, others later. This might simply be due to some factors playing together (badly coiled filament, high ambient temperature, bent electronics cover touching the board, and so on). By the way. I don't know if this is a forum issue, but I am unable to view your videos. I am on a Mac using Chrome. When I load one, Quicktime appears inline, but the video won't start. I think the safest way to share videos would be Youtube or Vimeo (if you want to password protect them).

@Woofy: No I didn't change the nozzle. @gr5: I'd imagine that if there's something inside the nozzle, you'd at least feel it when you touch the filament tip. And if the "gunk" is that thin, then it wouldn't impair extrusion.

Haven't done it with Meshmixer, but with netfabb Basic it is pretty easy (part->scale).

This didn't change anything for me. I did replace the teflon piece and also made sure the nozzle was not clogged or otherwise damaged. You can simply test it by removing the bowden from the head, heat up, insert filament, let it cool to 90° and pull it out. If the nozzle shaped filament tip is smooth, then your nozzle is fine.

Now, let's hope Daid sees it and adds a menu entry for the UM2 firmware where the current can be set.

Schau auch nach ob der dritte Lüfter ständig läuft. Dieser müsste gleich nachdem der Drucker eingeschaltet wurde, sich drehen. Bei mir waren die Anschlüsse oben am Druckkopf (im schwarzen Kabelschlauch) falsch. Der dritte Lüfter war an der Lüftersteuerung für den rechten Lüfter angeschlossen. Einfach die Ummantelung etwas nach oben ziehen (Richtung Rückseite) und die Steckverbindungen überprüfen.

Oh, didn't read the entire post (damn mail preview). Well, if it's the police, continue swinging and screaming while also employing typical medieval action moves hoping they will identify you as one of those crazy LARP dudes :mrgreen:

Bastards... Next time have this thing ready (print it in parts/BIG) and swing it while screaming like a mad man http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5902

Were they looking for a quiet place or were they trying to steal stuff from your garden? (or break in?).

Wow, not bad. I printed 36 extrusion tests up until now. My aim is 37 and no more