tommyph1208
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Posts posted by tommyph1208
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I second the heater, thermistor, all things electrical...
A lot of the other stuff you can potentially hack together to still make work if they should break...
- A cracked slider block?... : Glue it a bit or give it some gaffa... It will hold up until you print a new one...
But stuff like the heater, thermistor, even maybe a spare stepper, stepstick etc... You cant temporarily fix those if they break, and you are left with buying new ones and waiting for delivery... That could be 3-6 weeks if they have to arrive from say... China
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Definitely try the "two at once" approach, or even 4... and pick the best one... The print is so tiny, that even printing 4 at a time shouldn't take long...
For perfection...: Plenty of cooling, and tweak your print temperatur and retraction settings
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I would just try it in ABS for starters...
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Part 2:
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Just finished my biggest print to date:
The fume extractor above my stove has a circular exit hole and comes with a large circular flex tube that you are supposed to connect to an exit hole in your wall... However, my apartment is not of modern date (about 100 yo), and the exit hole is rectangular...
The circular stud of this print goes inside the extractor tube, and is one of two pieces that will connect circular-tube with rectangular-hole. The other part im printing has the same size base but a rectangular stud that fits the hole in the wall...
Once done, I will bolt them both, base-to-base, inside the kitchen cabinet that cover the wall hole..
Printed in white PLA, with a 0.6 mm. nozzle, 200°C, 0.2mm. layers, 100 mm/s print speed.
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Use the glue stick, and if you have a box of some sort (eg. cardboard) that can fit over the printer while printing, try that.
The box will keep an even temperature inside the build champer, which will result in less shrinking, warping and lifting...
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just use the recommended print temperature of the material (PLA ~ 200, ABS ~250)
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Do you have an image of the print/model or a link to it?
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By the way... To add images to a post, click the "my media" button above the commenting window (dosn't work on mobile though)
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Great you sorted this out, I was about to suggest you checked the thickness in the low parts of the model as well
Now for printing, move away from the basic setting options and switch to full settings, you'll learn alot, and in the end get better results.
You don't need support enabled for a print like this since terrain is typically "flat" without overhangs... You do however need som internal structure in the model for the top surface to rest on... For this, you need to put a % value in the "infill" setting, somewhere around 20-25% should be sufficient
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The "waffle like" structure you are referring to is infill... it is defined as a percentage value in cura.
0% infill will slice and print your model as just a hollow shell, 100% infill will slice and print your model as one solid " filled" object.
Any value in between will give you this waffle pattern in varying size/resolution.
It is designed to save material and print time, while maintaining object strength and internal support.
The support options on the other hand, will generate similar patterns under any overhangs on your model (parts of the model hanging out in the air with nothing underneath them to hold them up)
regarding the open areas you are experiencing, check that you dont have a value set at the "cut off object bottom" setting...
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small one looks so cute!
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Hey
I don't think your problem with the cracks is an underextrusion problem, but rather a classic result of the ABS material shrinking when cooling down, which tears the layers apart... The best ABS prints are achieved by closing off the printer... Adding something in the holes, and top (like acrylic plates or similar), to keep heat from escaping the build chamber... Given some time, your heatbed will heat up the air inside the printer, and this "oven effect" will help keep the ABS from shrinking, and thus help prevent your print from cracking... Its hard to enclose the top of the printer, due to the bowden setup, but it has been done... (Do a search for Ultimaker heated chamber)...
BUT:
Is there any particular reason you are printing this in ABS in the first place?
PLA is a much easier material to work with, it prints cooler than ABS, shrinks less, and you will likely have no issues with that, even without a heated chamber... Just a thought.
About the stringing (which is what the "stringy messy stuff" is called...):
This is a result of print material leaking from the nozzle while the print head is traveling to a new destination... It can be reduced by tweaking the "Retraction" settings in Cura... Enable retraction, and start with something like 40 mm/s speed, 4 mm. distance... Work your way up from there...
Lower print temperature and higher travel speeds (also Cura settings), will also reduce stringing...
About the splitting objects question... Cura doesn't rescale your models unless you tell it to... So just cut it apart in your modeling software (maybe add some tabs and holes to make precise and stronger assembly easier) and import them to Cura one at time... If ou want to scale in Cura, just scale all parts equally...
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You are printing PLA at 230C!?
I would say that is waay too hot, and might be (at least one of) the reason(s) your surface looks the way it does...
I would try somewhere around 180-190C, that might help you get rid of some of that massive stringing between the towers as well...
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What about Colorfabbs "Naturel"?
http://colorfabb.com/naturel#.VKalQiuG9XE
Example print:
http://learn.colorfabb.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/04/IMG_2483-580x870.jpg
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So... ColorFabb is releasing another exotic filament... brassFILL
I think it looks pretty sweet, Im more impressed than with the copper and bronzeFILL prints Ive seen... What do you guys think?
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Nice Christmas present
I'm jealous 
I learned alot from following this forum, just spending 10 mins. in here every day, reading posts as they come in, instead of only using it to get answers for your questions/problems as they occur.
It will be confusing at first, but you'll get there
Also... Print like mad! Learning by doing...
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That sounds like a pretty badly designed filter... But hey, if it works, it works...
Setting 100% infill won't improve strength of the mesh itself (since it will now consist of just two 0.3 mm walls) but you are right about it compensating for the lack of strength of the rest of the part...
If it didn't turn out good, you should consider redesigning the part (it dosn't look too complex).. Some other things you could try is the "swap at z" Cura plugin, that will let you slice the part several times with different settings, and combine the results wit the "swap" happening at a specific z height...
With that you can do the 0.3 mm. hack with the bottom mesh, and print the rest with better settings
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Anyone actually eat anchovies on pizza?
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Did you try the "Fix horrible" settings in Cura?
It might also simply be, that the "strings" of the mesh are thinner than your shell thickness x 2, in which case cura won't include them in the slice... In your images, the shell thickness is set pretty high... Start by setting it to your nozzle size (std. UM nozzles are 0.4mm.), and check the layer view... If the mesh is included you can try 0.8 shell thickness for better strength, and check again...
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+1 for PLA as the easiest print material... I also have a UM1, but If you go with the UM2, from reading the forums, I will say that you would probably want to print a new feeder (check the "Modifications and Hacks" section) and maybe a low-friction spool holder...
If any of the very young children of the school should ever get the chance to play with it as well, you should consider the Doodle3d that Ultimaker also sells here on the site:
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If you insulate the long nozzle (use something like kapton tape, maybe with some ceramic cloth/tape underneath) I would actually think this could be a fine long term solution... almosth worth a try, considering the prize of original nozzles (+ shipping :eek: !)
Im actually running a 0.6 mm. nozzle atm, and with the right Cura settings it works nicely, you can finish prints alot faster too
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What can you print at that temperature? And what printer do you have? (Please add it to your profile)
Chocolate?
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I had this massive ugly remote to control my garage door opener. it had to find somewhere to keep this big ugly thing in my car and it would rattle around the dash pocket.
It ran on a 9V battery so I got a 12v to 9v dc converter and mounted the remote inside the dash of the car out of sight.
Then I desoldered the micro switch and led then printed a new button to fit into one of the blanks in the cars dash.
here is the Button in place.
If you ever sell your car, its new owner will be forever wondering what this button does... Who knows, it might even drive him mad
Tips for Soft PLA?
in Coffee corner
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try adding a little bit of oil in the bowden tube, it will reduce friction and probably help alot with the extrusion