mr.-waldorf
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Posts posted by mr.-waldorf
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Today I had my first batch of Faberdashery filament arrive, so I thought I'd do a side by side extrusion test with UM Blue and Faberdashery Arctic White.
Both at 230C
UM Blue fails at 5mm/S and Arctic White at 7mm/S
Hi WofysPlace,
It seems no body is paying attention to your findings... but I am very interested on them. (everybody is paying attention it's just me being an asshole
)Why do you think that Faberdashery's filament had better extrusion rates?
-Because it has a smoother surface and runs with less friction thru the entire material feeding system?
-Because it has a lower melting point?
I hope it's the last one, kind a helps my theory (and others) I will quote illuminarti because he has a better English and can express himself better than I
Quote: "A different challenge is getting the extruded plastic itself up to temperature in the first place, when printing fast, because the plastic spends very little time in the hot zone before being extruded, and so doesn't get up to thermal equilibrium with the rest of the hot end."
Maybe the nozzle hot zone is smaller than on a UM1?
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Hey Nick,
Thanks for the intel. I suspected that, but since I don't have experience with UBIS hotends or FormFutura filament, I had to ask...
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Oh and I forgot... you are not stupid for choose and trust this company, It reveals that you are a smart guy
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Hi Toma,
Have patience, you will see that it's well worth it. We've all been through it
meanwhile you can read the manual, install Cura and play with it, find the best CAD software that suits you, read some threads... take the time to increase your knowledge.
If you've done all this, you can always buy a nice bottle of red wine and I bet when you get to the end you have become less anxious :blink: :blink:
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Hi Chopmeister,
Please post your findings. I am very interested in filament with low melting point to improve the UM2 underextrusion problems at higher speeds (so I hope...)
Thanks
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Yes, I looked at the settings and they are identical.
Hum... If so, this is very interesting. I can´t understand why that happens, especially after read Daid's post. So as you, I am very far from knowing everything and it's the reason why this community is a very powerful tool, all our minds and experience together to improve and find better solutions.
can't wait for further findings on this one...
keep up the good work
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More one or two hints:
-Make sure that the bed cables aren't smashed into some cover/lid.
-Check the PCB connectors and make sure that there is a good connection there and screws well tight (I had this problem)
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Hi Mario
Rectraction is to pull the filament backwards but didn´t quite understand why you want to retract more. Because of clogs? underextrusion?
You can go to the UM2 menu and change the retraction speed and retraction lenght.
I changed my UM2 rear http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4319-prints-quality-improvements/page-2, and it was a big improvement, but stiil underextrusion at higher speeds. What is your speed and temp?
When change ABS to PLA maybe you want to clean the material feeder (and Bowden tube if dirty) since some times there is some ABS pieces that can cause clogs and underextrusion
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Didn't noticed any speed differences...check your settings on both versions, you must have something different...
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I measured my nozzle hole with a needle, tape and caliper and my nozzle is 0.42mm. So maybe my method isn't 100% accurate but it seems that I have some numbers as Nico...
Nozzle temp: 200ºC
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Hi Nicolinux,
Maybe too fast and too cold?
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Bem vindo Mario,
Já tinha lido os seus posts em Inglês e não cheguei a responder pois o seu inglês é perfeito e a comunidade respondeu prontamente às suas questões.
Fica então aqui lançado a nossa secção em Português para entre ajuda e troca de ideias na nossa querida língua.
Obrigado pela participação e apesar de também ser novo na impressão 3D estou cá para ajudar no que eu souber...
Cumprimentos,
Nuno
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Não queremos que a língua portuguesa fique para trás, por isso fica aqui lançado o tópico em Português
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On the 'tune' settings the fan speed is set at 0% (not sure what that means, if i'm honest, but it sounds right :smile:
0% turn the fans off ( the 2 side fans)
Cheers, and good luck on that
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So once again, it proves that UM2 are very precise to achieve nozzle temperature, it´s the same here and it seems the same in all measurement temp nozzle tests/posts. Thank god for the pt100...
So new challenge, how can we measure the extruded filament temperature and compare it with an UMOriginal? (this should be more interesting at higher speeds where the underextrusion occurs)
maybe someone out there with a UM2, UM1 and a laser temperature gun??
Any thoughts?
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Had to google for Morris Dance... Lol, now I get it :lol:
Morris dancing has been claimed to be a remnant of a pre-Christian Celtic, or Druidic, fertility dance...
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Hi David,
I am not sure about the hairspray, never used.
I noticed in my prints if you put the stick glue on a hot bed doesn't stick so good as on a cold one
I forgot to mention, but others already did, enable the Brim that will help a lot
Note: I never use more than 50% fan with ABS and some times I even set to 0
I also have the feeling that Black ABS needs more temp than others, since you can't go over 260ºC you can lower the fans % (gr5 quote: You don't get very good overhangs but also it is less likely to lift.)
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Nicely done.
So once again it seems that at higher speeds PLA material doesn´t have enough time inside the nozzle to achieve the right temperature, and this can be improved with some PLA material who doesn´t need so much temp... with this in mind, UM White should be the worst material and Faberdashery filament should be the best...
I am starting to believe that a shorter nozzle is the guilty one...
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Hi David,
for ABS, 100ºC Bed temp and glue stick should do the trick
Cheers
Nuno
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Hi, Schafe the same thing happens to me! I have explained to my wife that I get drunk because of the UM2 but she doesn't believe.
on the other hand I have a different experience from your ... the government still stupid but here in Europe we can't buy an used gold toilet seat for $88.77
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If I have to guess George aka Gr5, has a bigger nozzle hole than you, but doesn't mean yours isn't 0.4mm. Now I am curious to see
This could explain Gr5's tests of max extrusion rates. It seems to me that George has a better extrusion rate than the majority. In addiction to that and a diferent PLA material could explaine why other printers can't reach those values
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Humm... so I suspect that your printer doesn't have a problem or defect maybe it's just like the others.
If you increase the temp the underextrusion should dissapear, but is this bypass the problem?
The UM2 nozzle seems to be shorter than UMOriginal so at higher speeds the filament spends less time inside the nozzle and maybe the layers are being extruded colder than an UM original, so if we increase the temperature should avoid that. If this theory is right, underextrusion should be worst at 0.2 layers and thicker layers.
It seems that UM2 nozzle was design for print quality and that may affect high speed prints, it's a compromise and I am very glad that they choose print quality over speed (or maybe it was just a design error)
This is what works for me:
0.1 layer
20mm/s - 220ºC
30mm/s - 230ºC
50mm/s - 240ºC
100mm/s - 250ºC
If I lower the temps I will have underextrusion, except at 20mm/s I can go lower if want.
If I have to guess George aka Gr5, has a bigger nozzle hole than you, but doesn't mean yours isn't 0.4mm. Now I am curious to see who has the bigger nozzle hole, or if was just a measuring error...
You can stick a needle into your nozzle, and when the needle stops you can mark with a thin pen (or tape) and then measure with caliper the needle thickness on that needle mark
Eih good luck on that
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If you would like answers not just guesses try to post some photos, If you really want the community to help you try to get a desk lamp, a flashlight, a candle, whatever and take a damn picture! Even this photograph can be enhanced by software and get a bit more quality. And as already said a pick worth 10 posts.
Do not forget also the setup, eg, speed, temp, layer height, flow, fan, retraction combing fix horrible, shell?.
otherwise it will be very difficult and time consuming to get started getting good prints based on hunches.
So... if you want guesses, this is my first one:
Right now the problem seems to be user...
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Hi guys,
I have closely followed the topic and almost looks like a witch hunt (no offense to witches)
What speeds and temperatures are you doing the underextrusion tests? (I think it's 230ºC!?)
I got the idea that you are also a UM original user, are you using the same setup temp/speed of the original? The UM2 is my first 3Dprinter (such a newbie!) but it seems that the UM Original can have a nice flow at lower temps better than UM2, however the nozzles are different so in my humble and newbie opinion we can´t compare the two. So bottom line are you sure that you aren't trying to extrude to cold?
I had underextrusion my self, but after this modification, http://umforum.ultimaker.com/index.php?/topic/4319-prints-quality-improvements/page-2, the underextrusion problems disappeared. So am I the one who use higher temperatures to disguise the underextrusion problem or it's you that is printing to cold? maybe its me.. :mrgreen:
Almost everything was checked except the teflon coupler and now the latest theory, nozzle thickness, so it gets to be hard to find culprits when everything has been revised ...
Good luck in your quest
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Almost always missing layers / underextruding
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
HEY ULTIMAKER R/D Team!!!
If you don't post your comments on this extrusion problems... we all start buying only Faberdashery filament to improve the extrusion rate and add a nickname to the UM2:
Fast&Furious
...they can print fast but leave the users furious!!
Just kindding, I love Ultimaker
Now more seriously, perhaps instead of posting your comments here, we can schedule a meeting and I will send one of my associates?
Crazy Harry