netsrac

Is there any disadvantage from moving out the original UM2 nozzle and fully replace it with the Olsson Block?

To be honest, I haven't read through this whole thread...but... I would like to print with ColorFabb XT-CF20 Carbon fiber material which is known to wear out the nozzle. So I don't wanna ruin my original UM2 nozzle and additionally install the E3D heater block and a stainless steel nozzle in the second whole of the print head. So basically when printing with XT-CF20, I simple place the feeder tube into the second nozzle and use this. When printing regular stuff, I would like to use the original nozzle. I know that the UM2 electronics was prepared for a second extruder, so I guess there should be connectors for a second heater block and a second temperature sensor. So beside the hardware installation all you'll need to say in the software is that you wanna heat Nozzle2 instead of 1 while still using the same feeder stepper. Is this possible? Anyone has a shopping list for what parts I'll need. If there are articles about this already in this thread, please feel free to point me to the posts. Thanks, Netsrac

BTW...Support and warranty was one of the main reasons to decide going for a ready-build device...

Well...you mean once they have our money that don't need to support us anymore...well :smile: BTW...just picked up the phone and called them. Worked through all the steps and it looks like it's the panel board. So I'll hopefully get a replacement soon. So....phone is definitely faster than email :smile:

How long does it normally take for UM's Support to answer? 36h without no reply and the weekend right in front of us...

Thanks for the idea....yes, printing from OctoPi works, so it's "only" the display that is not working....and the LEDs.

Hi, during a print the display of my UM2 suddenly looked fuzzy and the print stopped in the middle. I decided to turn off the printer...waited a bit and turned it on again. The display now stays off....nothing...no reaction...yes, I can hear a click sound when I press the click-wheel...but that's all... Something is broken :-( Right in time before I was able to finish the Xmas prints :-( Any ideas...any easy way to fix it? Already sent a request to UM's support...but so far no reply... Netsrac

Well...I started to print the first 3 layers petty hot (230°C) and then switch down to 210°C. And I also set the diameter to 2.75mm. That’s how I print at the moment and it works quite good. I still have the issue that the first couple of layers look a bit over-extruded. So the typical gears will not work when printing, because the layers are glued together, but all the other "normal" stuff works quite well... Netsrac

I was also choosing the UM2 in the promise it was soon be possible to print with two nozzles. And I still hope it will come and that the answer to the problems is not an UM3. But what I don't get regarding all the temperature discussions. If it's to hot, why not simply turn down the temperature of the other nozzle for a moment - sure, this will reduce the printing speed but I could totally accept this. So heat up both nozzles to e.g. 180C, then continue to heat up the printing nozzle to 220C, when you switch to the other nozzle, just stop heating the non-printing nozzle. It's hard to understand that the temperature is a problem here... Netsrac

Cool...thanks for this tip. However, it would be great to have this as an extended setting in any future versions of Cura.

Hi, I love the brim as Platform Adhesion help. However, it's hard to really clean the inside of an object with a small knife. So is there a way to do the Brim only on the outside of an object? That would really be cool! Thanks, Netsrac

Still didn't know what's the easiest way to replace this fan. It looks like I need to completely disassemble the head in order to reach the screws to swap the fan... Can anyone give me a short description how to swap it? Thanks...Netsrac

Where and how did you apply the oil?

Anybody know what kind of connecter is attached to the original fan? Any way to get it somewhere? I don't wanna disassamble by UM2 just to find out that I do not have the right connector available.

I bought it at Amazon in Germany - it was this one: http://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B006WXART8/

I tried it and even though I thought, I found the right settings, I still have issues. Mostly that the print is lifting off the bed after a couple of hours. So still need time to experiment a bit with it....but no real idea how to start... Nersrac

Nunja, aber PET ist ja langweilig durchsichtig. Ich dachte halt, da PLA biologisch abbaubar ist, ist es auch kinderfreundlich :-)

Right, especially when you are running a long print....which ends somewhere at night, so you want the printer to turn off all noisy parts. It's so fun that you can control unuseful things like the LED brightness and behavior, but you can not turn off this damn fan :-(

Die Idee ist ja nicht von mir.... Hier gibt's ein schönes Video, was das Ganze erklärt:

Sure, all can be tweaked....BUT....I bought a ready-to-run machine and I expect that everything is designed the way it should work. That's why I choose the UM2 and not the "here are your parts to build a 3D printer" version. If I start bending things, replacing switches and so, I'll loose the warranty. I think it's Ultimaker who should come up with a solutions for this, not "me".

Thanks for the hint with the replacement fan. I found this type on Amazon (where else when you are looking for exotic things). I might order it and replace the internal noisy one when time allows. How complicated is it to swap the fan?

The fan behind the Extruder (not the two side fans blowing on the print surface) is a noisy tiny devil. I hope this can be controlled via software. So a feature request would be to turn off this fan after nozzle and bed has been cooled down. It's the only noisy part on the UM2 and after a long print, you just want it to be quite.

Das Bett reinige ich, indem ich es aufh 45° aufheize, dann mit Wasser (gegen den Klebestift), Glasreiniger (gegen die fettigen Finger) und zum Schluss noch mit einem Microfasertuch gehen den Staub und die Fusseln, die evtl noch da sind. Den Innenraum sauge ich ab und an einfach mal aus. Was das Pflegen der Laufstangen angeht, da habe ich noch nix gemacht. Würde mich auch interessieren, wie man das am besten macht... Achja und Nozzle reinigen - Bowden Tube am Hotend ab, auf 180° aufheizen, ein Stück Filemanet rein, auf 90° abkühlen und dann nach oben rausziehen um den ganzen Dreck rauszuholen. Einmal hatte ich das Problem, dass Prints mit weißem PLA "dreckig" waren, also noch Reste von schwarzem Filament hatte. Habe dann bestgestellt, dass sich ein großer Klumpen Plastik von meinen FlexPLA Versuchen unter das Kühlblech gedrückt hat - also auch hier, Kühlblech ab, Nozzle auf 180° Aufgeheizt und das Ganze mit eine Pinzette saubergemacht. Gruß, Netsrac

Bist ja aus dem Filament-Wechsel nicht mehr raus gekommen :-) Irgendwelche Tipps für Andere, die Du daraus gezogen hast?

Hi, I've used by UM2 now for a couple of weeks, quite nice machine. Today I noticed that the acrylic glas on the left side is already scratches by one of the extruder fan screws. To be honest - nothing what I would have expected from a professional build machine... Anybody have seen this on his machine? Any way to resolve this? Looks like a basic mis-calibration, right? Already contacted UM support, but no reply yet... Thanks, Netsrac