DidierKlein
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Posts posted by DidierKlein
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Si j'ai l'occasion je ferais un test aussi. J'imagine que l'objet doit etre bien précis? Je pense qu'il faut au moins faire en 0.08mm
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Seems like you boss is trying to put you in a jail in his company and have you work like a slave...
Keep looking i'm sure you'll find something better (can't be that hard as what you describe)
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Continuing to play around with my UM2. Still very happy overall
Little vase voronoi style. Wanted to test a Voronoi structure. Result isn't very good as the voronoi cells have a lot of ugly edges probably printed too hot or fast or both. Will do it again maybe.
Little skull printed in high quality (i think it was in 0.08mm) in colorfabb pink. Nice result.
A friend asked me to make full size one in black to put on his "trailer ball" for a badass look ^^ i'm working on a hollow version of it but it needs supports for the orbits and the nose bose.
The finally a vase i printed in Ultimaker natural PLA i like the look of this filament.
And with a blue Led ribbon inside:
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Expert settings: Uncheck Solid infill top
It's always good to have a look at layer view before printing you would have seen this
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Okay i will try that
ifwhen it happens again -
Yes could be... should i try pushing the filament by hand in that case?
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Salut,
J'ai télécharger ton STL.
Je me demande si la solution n'est pas de rajouter de l'épaisseur a l'objet si tu veux l'imprimer sans infill.
Quand je regarde dans Cura avec un Shell de 1.2mm et un Bottom/Top thickness de la même valeur ça à l'air pas trop mal.
Si je laisse la valeur de 0.6 j'ai l'impression qu'il y a des zones qui seront imprimées dans le vide d'ou un affaissement ou des trous a la fin.
Tu peux aussi mettre dans les paramètres experts de ne pas avoir de bas (fond plat) si tu n'en a pas l'utilité ça réduira le temps d'impression
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Well it does make sense i guess but in that case why does it work right after without changing anything?
The filament is extruded correctly before starting to print by the way so it should not be a problem with extrusion
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I'm pretty happy with mine, the cylinder test worked good for me out of the box too. Maybe i'm one of the lucky guys who knows?
Maybe it's because they know much more about the machine so the can solve their problems alone. I would be very surprised to see one of the people you mention open a thread about an underextrusion problem or anything else as they have all the answers
Back to the topic
Yesterday i had the same strange behaviour.
Did a print everything went fine.
Printer cooled down enough so i could take the piece off with no effort.
Launched another print. Brim didn't appear or very slightly (i took a pic but nothing is seen although it's black). Feeder is skipping.
Abort the print
Touch nothing
Relaunch the same print.
Perfect brim and first layers...
What's happening?
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The Cool Head lift option will help i think. Either that or print another object of the same height at the same time will reduce the melting a Robert suggested.
From my small experience 0.06mm or even 0.08 gives a pretty good result. I'd also reduce the temperature to around 200°c if you print at 30mm/s it will probably give better results also.
[Edit]
Your test print looks pretty small too i guess you will print it bigger, the melting should impact the result less if the area is bigger
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I have the suspicion my z-stage is a bit loose and after the bed moves up/down a few times, the leveling changes. Does this make sense? If yes, oh well, that's bad. Don't know how to fix it. Never the z-stage off on the UM2 (and not very keen to do...).
I don't know if it makes sense but if it does it answers a behavior on my UM2 i can't explain.
Some prints i have very smooth first layer, some prints not.
Sometimes i finish a print, do another print and the brim and first layer isn't good at all, looks like the nozzle is way too close to the buildplate and nothing is extruded or very little.
I got this yesterday, i left the print to finish because i didn't care about the first layer being not perfect. After the print was finished i did another one and the brim lines were very thick and consistent (without changing anything).
I often thought that the little force i applied on the buildplate to take the object off could have some sort of influence on bed levelling.
How can i check if my Z screw is ok?
All the prints i do come out very good
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Juste une question comme ça, tu utilises quoi comme paramètres pour la température, vitesse et taille des couches?
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Je pense que l'um2 est relativement fiable. La mienne tourne régulièrement sans soucis depuis mi mars.
Maintenant ca reste de l'électronique et au bout d'un moment y aura toujours des pannes ou des pièces a changer...
Petite question par rapport a ton projet, les dents c'est pour faire quoi?
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I used that trick once it did the work. Just don't forget to have the fill bottom option to glue the parts back together
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you can split a part with meshmixer also but it will probably need a bit of work and patience if you want to glue the printed parts together (i'm not an expert of meshmixer but you can split a part and close it directly.
The problem is to make the same split for the second part as it doesn't really split but deletes the unwanted part.
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Not sure I understand the last question. But when I change filament, I just cut about 10mm below the melted tip and later reuse the filament where it was cut off before.
Yes that's what i do to. I was wondering because the filament that passes through the feeder is a bit grinded so i guess that a second pass could weaken it a bit and cause some slips
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Normalement tu n'es pas censé refaite le nivellage du plateau a chaque impressions...
Moi j'ai eu du mal a régler c'était souvent trop pret, du coup les premieres lignes étaient plus ou moins transparentes... et le rendu de la premiere couche pas terrible.
Quand tu refait ton niveau avant de placer le plateau en haut avec la molette ressert les 3 vis pour ne pas que ce soit trop détendu et essaie d'approcher au plus pres avec la molette pour moins détendre peut etre?
Enfin dans tout les cas normalement une fois le plateau de niveau tu ne dois plus y toucher
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Pretty cool it looks like a very difficult model to print, i guess you are going to split it in parts like the arm you showed.
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ca me parait bon tes températures.
Il faut vérifier le niveau du plateau c'est pas évident je trouve. Je pense que j'y suis arrivé pas trop mal. Quand tu glisses la feuille faut que tu sentes une petite résistance mais pas trop.
Après au niveau réglages je ne vais jamais plus vite que 50mm/s et si je veux quelque chose de bien au niveau finition je descends a 30mm/s.
Pour ce qui est de la hauteur de couche pour les pièces sans importance je met 0.2 après si je veux quelque chose de correcte je descend a 0.1 et pour quelque chose de nickel 0.08 ou 0.06.
Pour des jeton de caddie je pense que du 0.1 c'est largement assez. Il faut peut etre que le plateau ne soit pas trop chaud pour ne pas que ca se déforme de trop.
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I had a problem yesterday with black colorfabb filament.
I changed filament and put the black i already used once. Tried to print nothing came out.
Tried to or three times still nothing, smelt burned plastics. Some fumes came out. I thought i had my first clogged nozzle.
So changed the filament back and when it came out it was all grinded at on place so it was the cause of the non extruding filament, it wasn't able to be pulled up.
I just cut the filament and it worked good again.
When you change to you throw away the filament that has already passed through the feeder?
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En effet vaut mieux prévenir quand meme le support parceque si tu as endommagé des pièces on ne pourra pas te remettre la faute sur toi.
Content que tu aie trouvé la solution, n'hésite pas a poster tes questions ou tes réalisations
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oui c'est octopi aussi ici mais j'ai eu quelques soucis...
Sinon il semblerait que pour la cam il faut plus que 1000mA car pour ma part ça ne fonctionne pas avec une alim de 1000 mais ca marches avec 1500
Post your latest print!
in What have you made
Posted
92 hours of printing :shock: looks great, and great design by braddock
will probably print it too but not that big :mrgreen: