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About prb4

  • Birthday 01/07/1977

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  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
  • Country
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2

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  1. To me it appears as though the bed is too far from the nozzle. The first layer needs to squash flat to stick to the bed.
  2. Thanks for the reply. What I have to loose is about £200 on a copy of windows 10. If it doesn't work on Windows 10 then I would put windows 8 on it which is much cheaper, hence it would be good to know if anyone has tried Cubify Invent on Windows 10.
  3. I currently use Cubify Invent and find it ideal for what I need to model. I'm looking at getting a new PC, does anyone know if it works on Windows 10? Thanks
  4. prb4


    Odd, we obviously have very different perspectives. I have found Faberdashery to be much cheaper and produces great prints. I also have many more problems with spooled filament than I ever have with the unspooled filament from Faberdashery. They could improve the consistency of supply though, it is annoying when colours are out of stock for weeks.
  5. prb4


    That was my thought too. It's a shame because I like their filament most.
  6. prb4


    I've been waiting for Faberdashery to restock on several colours for months but no colours are coming back into stock and those that are in stock just seem to reduce. I've tried e-mailing and phoning them but get no reply. Does anyone know what's happening with them? Thanks
  7. That's under-extrusion. Most likely caused by a blocked nozzle. You need to do some atomic pulls to clean the nozzle.
  8. Innofil3D pro 1 PLA It's been around a while and the marketing blurb claims its brilliant and can be printed a lot faster than normal PLA. It's recently been recommended to me by someone who is probably biased. So has anyone done any comparison tests of Innofil3D pro 1 PLA versus "normal" PLA (whatever that is)? I would be particularly interested to hear of the results of any comparison tests against other leading brands. Peter
  9. Regardless of whether support is provided or not, printing from SD card remains essential. Most of the time my PC is not even on when the printer is printing. Incidentally none of my Ultimaker printers has wifi connectivity, nor is USB printing recommended by Ultimaker for them, including for the recently purchased one.
  10. Printing from an SD card is certainly not a "remnant from the past". My printers are not next to my PC and I print on more than one printer at a time. The SD card is essential.
  11. I am not sure it is wise to be recommending 3DHubs these days given their recent business attitude? UM2+ would be my choice, the complexity of a UM3 is unnecessary expense for creating this part. I would second the 0.25 mm nozzle though if dimensional accuracy is most important.
  12. Hi Mine works fine, but I did find a higher temperature was required. Try adjusting your normal print temperature up or down 5 or 10 degrees. Peter
  13. Excellent, thank you for the comprehensive reply. I'll give these a go and see what makes a difference.
  14. Hi Sander Thank you for the reply. A number points. Firstly, the printers work great most of the time and always have done (with regular maintenance). They are great machines (that's why I keep buying more instead of a different brand) and don't actually need much maintenance. I've looked at your Maintenance schedule, obviously that is for an Ultimaker 3 and I only have 2+. However assuming the schedule is similar then I largely do follow those recommendations already. I do regularly lubricate the rods. Things I haven't done, I have never cleaned the threaded Z screw (but I do lubricate it), nor replaced the Bowden tube. Also I haven't disassembled the feeder to clean it, I just blow air into it although I can't say I ever notice debris falling out. So my questions would be. 1. Why change the Bowden tube every year? What is the reason for this? 2. How should I be cleaning the feeder? Do I need to disassemble it? 3. Yes all the printers have black dust under the belts. So the same question as Shurik, should I be doing something about this? 4. The oldest printer doesn't seem to produce prints quite as good as the newer ones. It's difficult to say exactly what it is. Probably the most obvious difference is a vertical flat wall appears slightly less smooth, i.e. the print lines are slightly more visible. Any idea what might be the cause of that? Perhaps I should try to clean the Z-screw and feeder? (I have recently changed the coupler, nozzle, brass heating block and lowered the acceleration from 3000 to 1500). Thanks Peter
  15. Hi I have four Ultimaker 2+ printers, one of which is an upgrade from a 2. They range in age from 6 months to over 3 years They all print most of the time, all day everyday. Obviously I would expect parts to age and need to be changed after a few years, however I haven't ever seen any advice on this. Can anyone recommend how often parts need to be changed? Or even which parts are likely to need replacement first? I'm not talking about the more frequent, semi-consumable parts like the nozzle and coupler which do need changing more frequently. For instance, when should I be thinking about changing the belts? I only print in PLA, but is the feeders knurled sleeve ever likely to need replacing? There must be other parts that need considering too? Thanks for any insights Peter
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