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Ultimaker Community of 3D Printing Experts


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  1. Print it in 2 halves mirrorred from eachother by usung the "cutoff from bottom" function. and the glue it together with superglue(in case of PLA) or acetone(in case of ABS)
  2. Yeah i was thinking the same, but it prints the borders just fine. It's just the infill that is underextruded.
  3. Well i have tried different settings already, but it seems to do this anyways. Atm i'm using 225C and fans are at 100% at .5mm
  4. 0.1 layer height 0.8 shell 0.6 bottom/top fill density 30% 50mm/s speed(same for infill)
  5. As you can see above my printer only makes a sort of columns with an occasional bridge between them instead is solid fill lines. Even with flow at 105-110%. It started doing this a while ago, and since i didnt change anything to my printer i wondered if this has something to do with my settings in cura.
  6. Yess that did the trick ! never knew those settings were available.
  7. I use inventor for my designs, and my stl files always show up 10 times smaller in cura than what i made them in inventor. Not a big deal, but i guess autodesk software is just a bit wierd with 3d printer files
  8. Ik ben ook tot nu toe zeer netjes behandelt door het support team. Het duurt tegenwoordig helaas wat langer dan toen ik m'n printer kreeg. Over de wil om mee te werken is geen twijfel mogelijk. Als Ultimaker een slechte naam zou krijgen kunnen ze inpakken, en dat wil niemand denk ik. Let wel dat de problemen met de UM2 waarschijnlijk niet verdwijnen door de nieuwe ondedelen. Na verloop van tijd komen sommige van je lijstje gewoon weer terug. Helaas hanteren ze bij UM een garantietijd van 3 maanden, waardoor je na deze periode de onderdelen zelf moet betalen.
  9. Looks like an awesome system ! I have a question though. What made you go with the 1:20 worm wheel gears ? And not for example a 1:1 conical gearset ?
  10. Ik heb zelf ook 8 rollen van 123inkt, PLA dan wel. Maar het is niet echt een aanrader. De eerste 1 a 2 maanden zijn ze prima(behalve de groen doorzichtige rol), maar daarna is het een ramp. Breekt steeds in de bowden en is heel breekbaar ook na het printen.
  11. A day too late (because i forgot my wallet yesterday). But i've started working on the parts, I have found all the copper needed to do this. As you can see in the pic i cut some small pieces of the larger rods, i have about 1m of both. If all goes well i'll have my lathe tomorrow so i can start milling the parts.
  12. I've spoken to them at the ulti-evening here in holland, and they're gonna release the parts for the UM2 soon. But as i mentioned in the first post, what UM charges for the parts is close to criminal. Which is why i wanted to start the project in the first place. If the parts were reasonably priced i wouln't even bother making them myself to save a few euros
  13. Alltough this might work, it still is a overly complicated design. Because metal bars dont come with the nozzle holder already attached you'd have to either mill alot of metal away or weld a round piece to it. By just using a threaded rod you'll avoid all of that.
  14. I'm just gonna go with the M6x0.75 threads that come with the original hotend. The only real difference is that i need to make a thread in the block part. And thread a piece of 6 or 7 mm copper bar and taper it at the end. Drill a couple of holes here and there. I could make a 3d render but that's probably more work than actually making a hotend. I'll be goin to the metalstore tomorrow, So i guess i can post some pictures of the first stages tomorrow evening/wed morning. Good to see there is alot of interest in this ! About buying/selling, i dont think UM would appreciate it if i sell the
  15. I will have to look into that ! But do you think that it will matter ? Yes i have thought about this, but i dont want to take apart my entire UM2 to fit a new hotend. Also i'm already working on a H2O cooled system that is designed to fit the original assembly But those E3D hotends are very nice !
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