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bob-hepple

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Posts posted by bob-hepple

  1. question the parts are printed BUT the magnets are not a tight fit into the Head A where they marry up with the magnets in the coupling, in the coupling they are a smooth fit but will be pulled out by the magnetic pull, and in the head A they are a loose fit.

    Can they be superglued into the HeadA and can they be glued to the back of the coupling wings,, I printed 2 of the headA (one was a mistake) both have the same recess for the Mags and the same dimension (sloppy).

    I also printed 2 of the coupling (first one damaged getting off the Bed) but again the dimensions are the same on both (for the Mags) smooth fit. but inadequate..

    I don't want to re print because I don't believe the prints are bad (both of them) it is only where the mags meet on the Head and the coupling all the other parts are good.

    I wondered if the mags are slightly under sized I got them from

    https://www.first4magnets.com/circular-disc-rod-magnets-c34/6mm-dia-x-3mm-thick-n42-neodymium-magnet-0-9kg-pull-p3566#ps_1-2566

  2. Just thought I would show my Start on the mark 2 Modification and the Ultimaker

    started in Ernest to do the Mark 2 mod, sea below the Fan Shroud which I have Drawn Red for Mark 2 white for the UM (durr Obvioulsy :()5a333f91a9271_Fan1.thumb.JPG.838f5116d70a5a0e3ff82d603bc11ab6.JPG

    I made the spacer and getting the head into Mark2 I'm Using 3D Solex Matchless Block's

    5a333f91a9271_Fan1.thumb.JPG.838f5116d70a5a0e3ff82d603bc11ab6.JPG

    also Lined the Shrouds with Kapton Tape for a bit more protection but the material should be OK had used the same material with my Old Shroud and it is still going strong...

    Just thought it might be interesting to someone. ;)

    will Post some more pics when I get back OFF to TCT Show

    5a333f91a9271_Fan1.thumb.JPG.838f5116d70a5a0e3ff82d603bc11ab6.JPG

    • Like 1
  3. Hi

    could I ask if anyone could give me advise on printing spall parts please,,, Ive been working on The Mark 2 Head parts and came to a problem, I'm using Simplify 3d and yes I know my retraction is high 6.50 and when I printed Head A, I obviously had a problem with the eyelets,, where retraction was just causing no print..

    5a333f7f06efb_Mark2Bad.thumb.JPG.28d181c07de9c736e8b7a6200c8549a8.JPG

    so I took retraction off completely and did another print with variable settings feature

    5a333f7de9257_Mark2good.thumb.JPG.33039f6f4d2776d5382b3e23f30e8029.JPG

    when it comes to small prints like the eylets would it make sense to half the retraction settings and speeds to cope with the situation,,, or is it more refined than that possibly going lower in percentages,

    as you can see from the second pic it worked but could of been a lot cleaner if the react and coast were mare suitable to small parts..

    This is in prelude to printing a small Hinge I have in Mind I either make it in one or make it 2 either way it is small so was going to use .20 nozzle

    5a333f7f2bd8a_BalderHinge.thumb.JPG.a3b1e42341fb06597ef3f3e6605db4e3.JPG

    Help and Advise Welcomed

    5a333f7f06efb_Mark2Bad.thumb.JPG.28d181c07de9c736e8b7a6200c8549a8.JPG

    5a333f7de9257_Mark2good.thumb.JPG.33039f6f4d2776d5382b3e23f30e8029.JPG

    5a333f7f2bd8a_BalderHinge.thumb.JPG.a3b1e42341fb06597ef3f3e6605db4e3.JPG

  4. GR5

    Thanks for reply, I measured the 12.5v without the printer connected. I heave left the UM2 switched on and connected to supply WITHOUT it being plugged in for nearly 24hrs,, I going to try it again if nothing is working I suppose new power brick first.. found them R.S

    http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/6796889/?cm_mmc=UK-PPC-0212-_-Google_3_MPN_Exact-_-Mean_Well_PSF_430701_Desktop_Power_Supply-_-GS220A24-R7B&gclid=CjkKEQjwttWcBRCuhYjhouveusIBEiQAwjy8IO5HqroXrrMNd1VsmV-kLjD7UkweODs2sBdxc5_y6FPw_wcB

    Expensive..

  5. Neotko _ thanks for the reply didn't get that far, to plug anything in, it was a normal day printing the parts - then STOP lights out and dead..

    gr5 thanks for the points I'll strip the board later today and check Voltages at the input, I guess if 24v is not there then its the supply if it is there and theres no 5v supply then its the board?? The machine is about 4 yrs old so thats warrenty out,, where can I get new boards from?? Uk authorived dealer 3dGBire dont list them,,

    I also found this thread from the Forum that GR5 had an input on

    https://ultimaker.com/en/community/11256-where-to-buy-power-supply-for-ultimaker-2

    I downloaded the schematics..

    if I end up buying a new board will the drivers for the second extruder be on there for the Mark 2 Mod,, I have all the bits and it would be money waisted if they are not on the board.

    thanks for all the replies appreciated..

  6. just make sure you have an Ultimaker mainboard with 5 stepper drivers installed.but

    Don't really get that, are you saying make sure I have a spare board in case I blow it OR are you saying count the drivers and make sure it original UM board??

    5a3316050d7a3_Circuitboard.thumb.JPG.b068d24d60b30cc28dd0e91034137ecc.JPG

    this was My mother board last time I had it to bit's.

    And also... Yes there is still development. Did you see the zge version?
    no I have not seen that version, is it better ??
  7. Neotko

    makes interesting reading?? s3D have been back intouch asking for my FFF files.. I had a little success below the three tenors

    5a333e3e59baa_3GuardiansF.thumb.JPG.c3e8bc667713876e8a695a88b2caf908.JPG

    black was printed at 190 and is total crap red was printed at 205 alot better but still Zits..

    I listened to the people I purchased it off who told me stay away from 200 + they also supplied custom firmware, as the BCN is buggy..

    wont be lisening to them again??

    I think i am going to be in a position that I will have to compile my own firmware..

    will wait till I hear fromS3D

    I will check all my code though and use 3.1 for a bit longer

    Thanks

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