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bob-hepple

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Posts posted by bob-hepple

  1. Wayne

    I stopped, I found the lead screw is directly attached to the motor no by a coupling it is machined, I thought the process would be stretching my machining skills, and I had enough of other problems to sort out. I think I still have the PDF of the lead screw if you interested, got it from Git Hub and the step files,,

    The helix lead screw is awesom along with the self lubricating nut company Igus

    have a look

    http://www.igus.co.uk/wpck/9443/productoverview_Trapezgewindemutter?C=GB&L=en

    let me know if you want the files.. or and how you get on.

  2. Decided to Order Ngen to print my Mark 2 head ???

     

    PLA tec has a higher temperature tolerance... I would personally not use Ngen for this.

     

    Thanks for your Honest Opinion, one of the reasons for not taking advise (neotko) was the link shown for the white was not in English so didn't want to just jump into the Dark.. I Found this on a sight I have purchased from before

    https://www.3djake.com/extrudr/green-tec-red

    https://www.3djake.com/extrudr/green-tec-white

    I presume this is the same Material if so I will order , as always thanks for the comments

  3.  

    Thanks, will source that!

    Is it possible to get the coupling parts in separate stl files?

    Many thanks!

     

    About the files, all files are also in .stp format in the github folder.

    You can easily modify, or save separate STL's from them using free software like fusion360 or Design spark mechanical.

    read here how to unlock steps for editing in DSM;

    https://ultimaker.com/en/community/3772-spaceclaim?page=2#reply-54816

    Check the scale after importing the .stp I noticed in spaceclaim I have to scale them down a factor 10.

     

    In solid works they are huge when .STP Files were brought in didn't realise till I sat it on the print table in S3d and it would fit Durr? I'l know better next time.

  4. -Play in coupling

    I Printed everything in Polymaker PLA, that was not temp stable enough. The i reprinted in Polymaker Polymax, but that material seems to be nog hard enough; the coupling can flex a little bit.

    Also, with both systems, i have a tiny amount of play between the 2 parts, enough to make my second head calibration varying between 0 and 3 or -3.

    The fact that the second rol pla is pulling hard on the bowden tube and on the head doesnt help either.

    Suggestions?

     

    Decided to Order Ngen to print my Mark 2 head ???

  5. yyh1002

    thanks for the reply you made some points that I didn't think of ?? which is exactly why I asked the question?? thanks..

    I will look at the Boden again.. The Ums 2 is not what it started life out as std.. and I guess I replaced the tube 2 or 3 times.. so I doubt it is std length I will look at the fast forward and check..

    I also have another printer Not Um (sorry) which is heavily modded and I suspect that machines bowdens are well out, I will check the H files for the length before I cut 25mm off...

    Thanks

  6. All

    Hope someone can shine a light at what defines the Length of the Bowden tube..

    Reason My Um 2 has a Bondtech and the bowden has a nasty habit of going nearly flat not upright,, this makes the entry into the top of the head and the exit from extruder, under pressure, and I would think cause more friction pushing the material through...

    So I thought as long as the tube was NOT being stretched by the head moving across the med to all 4 corners that would be fine...

    Any thoughts before I cut...

  7. Ok I'm asking the question hear??? tried the Mark2 thread and got very little responce... with the wealth of knowledge on this forum what PLA will work with the Mark 2 Mod it seems they have only tested (1) Manufacturer which is Extrudr,, are there any other Manufacturers product that should do Like Colour fab say XT or HT Or Polymaker, don't want to waist time and money??? any help appreciated.

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