bob-hepple
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Posts posted by bob-hepple
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will think and b intouch tonight
thank you
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bummer im at the other end of country how much are you asking..
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yes interested how much can pick up depending where you are at
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Really like the look of this design which Firmware are you using is this custom,, also what slicer I use S3D and find the Mark 2 a little awkward to use with it... VERY Good work though highly impressive.
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Thanks for all the advise I tried the link and I thought you could alter the Kp Ki Kd values while you are printing ??
but I also hooked the Um2 to Pronteface and ran
M303 E0 S210 C10
and this gave me
Kp14.31
Ki 1.46
Kd 34.98 then added these values manually into the UM2 and saved this was better but at any temp change say from 215 to 210 it would drop to 202 and then climb to 210
I did the same procedure for the second head but altered the line to
M303 E1 S210 C10
and in putted the results again manually...
so I'm guessing the pid is not reacting quick enough to stop the drop in temp and recover to change???
the link you sent me suggest you can do this while printing ??? is that correct... if so how the menu is not available while printing???
again thanks for the advise...
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Tinkergnome
Thank you for replying the oscillation has only raised its head since I installed the new Mark two, On the original head I am still ysing the original heater but I am using 3dsolex blocks,, I did suspect it was the Pid setup (sub-optimal) don't know this,, but I had done a Auto pid tune, but as I said the Temp is ramping up by 20 then back down although I don't know where 200c comes in when S3d has it set to 210,, (could be creeping)??.
The link gives plenty of warnings but light on how to?? for the novice,,, I have Pronteface installed so might have a look on that,, Ill also print the link off and have a go at manually setting
at the moment my settings for Head 1 are
Kp 18.83
Ki 3.64
Kd 24.38
this was after a Auto Tune
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Does the Mark 2 Firmware handle the temp setting in a different way to when I just used Tinkergnomes Firmware for the STD Um2..
reason I'm asking I'm getting a lot of banding in the prints which I have never suffered with on the UM2,, my last print I noticed the temp reading on the display is going from 200 to 220 all the time during a print,, it climbs up then drops, continually. Im using S3D which I have always used before the Mark 2 mod and in my Temp Setting I have 215 for first layer them 210 ????????????
and yes I am using just the left head only (original head) the other is parked and NOT being used at all.. and is cold.
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gr5
thanks for the reply that has helped dropping the fan, but I seem to be getting the odd layer splitting in the print
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Hi Everyone,,
tried to make my first print with .25 nozzle, Im using nGen printing at .10 Layer height with 3 perimeters and 50% infill but my prints are Britle Temp 215 can anyone shine a light were Im going wrong speed is low
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Finally got the Print to stick not a great print but not bad for my first attempt in Cura print was to fast to hot and retractions not that good But hey its hear,,, Thank you to all that replied to my questions and offered there advise..
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navigator thanks for the reply I di exactly that spent ages with different tensions on the paper I'm gonna try this again if still cant get it to stick then I will download ZOffset tweak and try that,, thanks for all the advise appreciated.
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Tinkergnome
ill look into that but what do you think is my btm line problem z offsets I’ll spend more time if you think that’s where my problem lies..,
just st want to get this sorted really
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tinkergnome thanks for the reply
I could not get the calibration print to stick no matter what I did with the z (piece of paper under the nozzle) I tried with slight pressure, I tried with quiet a grab on the paper, got no improvement..
so I went to S3D and tried printing with the left head only and it stuck no problem
went to cura and loaded in a cone, when I eventually worked out how to set a dual head print up, I ran it this afternoon, the heaters worked, the tool head's swapped and did there own skirt BUT left head was still to far away from the build plate and the second head was worse,,,, I let the code run for 1 layer by then the prime pillar was being scraped off by the second head.....(messy)
I thought there might be a global offset for the Z (as in S3D) but couldn't find anything like that (even on web)
I presume you think it is a Z issue (being to far away from bed) but as I said I have been tight and lose with the Paper...
I haven't tried the two heads in S3D YET I wanted to get cura to work first.
your thoughts would be appreciated,,, spent a lot of time on this it would be good to say its finished???😃
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ok following on from another thread I have my head 1 printing under S3D so I know the bed is level and the heat setting are working but when I try and print with cura with two heads the print is messy not sticking to bed is there a way of adjusting the z offset in cura OR am I missing a crucal part of the callobration…. I have done the z adjust as per the instructions but still not sticking.....
I have never used cura so the learning curve is vertical..
advise please
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conny_g
thanks for the reply, yes I understand the stand by temp, I'm on about printing temp the 168 was an example, I set left head at this temp and watched to see if stable then the right head.. if I'm printing at 205 then the temp goes up and down on both heads(when printing and when in stand by, the right one in particular, I seem not to be able to get the calibration code to print (print not sticking even when bed adjusted) and as said the temp readings for both heads goes up and down. I have prepared a dual colour print in cura (I usually use S3D) so that was a learning curve,,, I am going to run it later today and see what happens...
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following on from a previous thread about the calibration print (not printing) I have noticed the temp reading for both extruders are going up and down by 10 deg since the second head was added so if I set the temp say to 160 (low I know) the temp will drift up to 168 and down to 154 didn't notice this before when the single head was on,, any help appreciated.
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GR5
thank you for replying, I am running the code for the Mark 2 calibration, Heater 1 no problems temp ramps up and over takes heater 2 at about 170 heater 2 is my problem, material wont stick to bed basic stuff like that when I up the temp to 216 it sticks but the temp fluctuates I don't know what the printing temp should be with that code but temp swings from 206 (stable print) to 216 then drops,,, Im using the Matchles blocks I got from 3dsolex along with his 35 w heater,,, All new
I have done pid auto tune and I also went into the power budget and dropped extruder 1 down to 30w and uped extruder 2 to 40w to see if there was any change (answer no) temp 2 seems to wonder...
thanks
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Hi
I have been trying to print the calibration code but the second head wont print the bondtechs slip,,, I decided to up the heat from 210 to to 220 and it worked BUT I think the temp display is all over when its target was 210 it was up to 218 and the led lights are flickering, if I leave it as per the code the second head wont print (clicking grinding from extruder) I have done an auto pid tune but it don't seem to help.. the first head is fine when it primes it runs freely when second head primes its not so free.....
Any help appreciated.....
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am I thinking correct Conny-g I looked for the UM2s holder and found this when Im looking at your pics have you cut this or have you used iRoberts equivalent part that slots in at the UM2 back.
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I have sliced a print with S3d with standby temps of 170 so hopefully will work,, I got the profile from the forum some time ago.. I use S3D a lot but understand Cura is better for the Mark 2 but I think your limited to the version of Cura to run (I could be wrong) I lost count how many threads I read.
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Conny_g
had a look at your design which I have downloaded, your also using iRobert Design? did you use the mount that originally fits on back of UM2?? iRobert did, and what size of thread print bar, are you using mine is 48mm long but your looks a lot longer was it the 90mm he did.
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Conny_g
thank you for taking the time in answering will check that link out
gr5
thank you for your input, unfortunately space says a spool holder is to be used, and complete agree about the force needed, that is why I like iRoberts so much it is completely free of any force needed..
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Hi All
I'm finally coming to finishing my Mark 2 Upgrade and only the Z offset calibration to print, I want to use a better Fillament Holder I use iRoberts Ballraced holder at moment and printed a Holder for the second real that hangs on the side, im using Bondetch extruders and thought of printing the UM3 holder, has anyone seen a nice design that would be good to use with my setup.
any suggestions appreciated.
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Tinkergnome
thanks for explaining, I managed to get the 3mm screw in BUT the amount of tension that is on the dock is concerning!! I will re print the std wedges in flex, and throw the STL Flex wedge in the Bin.
Cura Basics Help Please
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
trying to print a pyramid out, but its cut into 4. bottom piece and third piece printed by head 1 and the second and 4th piece printed by head two, how do you stop cura giving a bottom shell to the third piece while keeping the bottom of the first piece...
help appreciated