macua85
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Posts posted by macua85
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neotko, my blocks were just like that. All this time I've blamed the fact that I painted the wood, but seems to be a production problem. I carried on and assembles like that, caused no problems on the machine. However, I'd recommend printing some slider like the ones in the GT2 vs MXL thread, they are much better than oem.
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You should still get no adhesion problems with blue tape. My best guess would be either the tape cleanliness as mentioned, or more likely, bed levelling. The first layer needs to be well squished into the bed for good adhesion. Adjust the bed while its doing the priming perimeter until an even (squished) line is showing.
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I tried everything from no retraction to 2mm. Interestingly enough I know a few guys running e3d v6 on direct extruder setups with no problems. Its possible that the sum of the friction in a bowden setup is the problem, with the soft 'ball' of filament in the hotend being the culprit for the extra friction over standard hotend setup.
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Same problems as me then. Its incredibly annoying...if only we knew how to fix it. I'll have a go at one more design with better cooling when I build the second printer. If that doesn't work, its merlin.
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Hey guys,
I'm building a second printer in order that I can continue my development with the magnetic print head design foehnsturm came up with. Rather than buy a second ultimaker, i'm building one from chinese parts. It seems fitting as i'm living in Shanghai at the moment and have access to this stuff pretty cheap. So, i've got pretty much everthing I need, but not sure if I have ordered the right z stepper. These are the specs:
Now, I can't read chinese, but I can read numbers...and i'm hoping they will make sense to someone else. Is this the same stepper and lead screw used on the UMO HBKs?
When I compile my firmware, I assume I need to change the z step info to match (as the UMO uses i believe a different screw). What do I change?
Thanks for any info or help.
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I used a 24v heater on the e3d v6 with no problems. If you don't want to change the ultimaker board and solder a resister to it in order to run a thermistor, e3d also sell type k thermocouples which work with the oem ultimaker amplifiers. No change of firmware is required if you go down this route.
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I forgot to close this, just after I posted the question I found the combing feature. I was a little surprised that with combing off, the print time increases by 2 hours. I'd expect it to go the other way as the print head it taking to most direct routes. Is this normal?
Also, how about z hop, is it a feature worth using? When combined with combing, (or combing without perimeter), does it improve print quality and stringing?
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Hi guys,
Im using Cura 15.02.1, and have been for some time now. However, a strange problem has recently developed. Whenever I print a part not, on each layer rather than taking the most direct route to the start point of the next layer, it tracks around (on top of) the perimeter. It ruining the prints, as a little plastic is dragging every time it does this. Is this a settings issue?
Thanks,
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Thanks for making that update to the builder amedee
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Looking good. I would say that the biggest problem there seems to be cooling, s the overhangs are not coming out as good as they could. Maybe some fan ducts which point more towards the printing nozzle (or just below it)?
As for the wobble, go for GT2 and direct drive for sure. Its so cheap from robotdigg, no belt tensioners required, and the mount for direct drive is easy to print. You don't even need to get longer axis if you don't want to, as someone has designed an adapter to house the bearing and mount to the bearing cap holes.
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Hmmm, I print at over 250 for XT with my oem hot end. Think it would last printing to 260?
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Great thanks for that amedee. Its not such a pressing issue for me now though. I've put my printer back to oem due to constant problems with the e3d v6 jamming, despite all of my best efforts to rectify it. It seems to me that the area that isn't being cooled by the heat sink (the heat break between the block and the heat sink), is the cause in my case. The filament is swelling and jamming there.
Its a shame, I really like the design, maybe i'll go for the same hotend as foehnsturm. Can anyone advise where to buy from, that would ship to China? What max temp are they good for?
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Definitely under extrusion signs there. I'd do an atomic pull (or a few) to clear the nozzle. Also doesn't look like 40% infill, which version of cura are you using? I think the latest one has a bug on the infill settings. As mentioned by others, if you fix under extrusion and up the wall thickness it should be a pretty solid part.
Edit, looks like you used support structure, which is why it looks like under extrusion but may not be. Can you show the rest of the print?
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Thanks for that post gr5, I'll mull it over when I get a minute.
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I think a lot of old members have given up or don't visit as frequently though. I don't doubt what you are saying gr5, but it seems to have lost its appeal to the oldies. I quote coffee corner and 'a coffee between friends' again. I remember that it was seldom below the top post, and if it was, it rarely went a day before someone updated it. Must be indicative.
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Haha, indeed, I have already pursued option 1, but as with a lot of the older members, i'm not sure is Amedee is still as active since the new forum came online. He is a level 1, so i'm guessing not.
Option 2....I need to research, and time is limited at the moment. If i'm forced to do it I will.
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I really like that tool too! Its what i normally use. However, it doesn't allow for changing the max extruder temp which is what I really need it for!
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The firmware on robotfuzz doesn't seem to be kept up to date. Also not sure which options to tick for oem heated bed kit. Any ideas?
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Hey guys, is anyone here able to assemble me some custom firmware? I need firmware for dual extruder, heated bed (oem), ulticontroller, but with the max temperature raise to 350-400 degrees so that I can make use of the e3d's.
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Wow sounds interesting, share the details when you can.
For any of you guys who would like a e3d v6 versions, which I now know works, the stl files are all here: https://www.youmagine.com/designs/e3d-v6-modular-print-system-magnetic-final
A brief description with gcode etc. Ill share some more pics of prints as they happen. If anyone else figures out the print area, and can give me some instructions please do!
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Neotko the adjustment will be Carried out by loosening the 4 bolts?
The material sounds interesting, looking forward to seeing the results. Looks like you are using 3 magnets? 3mm ones? And what about the locations cones, are you not using those?
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So here is the first print. Excuse the missing left hand, the supper fell over at the beginning. This was printed with no wipe and prime tower, and no ooze shield. All I have done is remove the stringing. Pretty happy, although think would get far better results with the tower. Printed at 0.15, 60mm/s, no infill.
And the finished machine:
To do:
Sort the print area issue out
Re print small cartridge in fine resolution for better pickup accuracy.
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Yup thats what the print is for. Adjusted already, on to a real print today.
Ultimaker 2 Frame :)
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
These are the blocks I use, and they made a huge different to assembling the head and gantry. Made much quicker as there are no adjustments to make every time (making sure everything is square). Highly recommended, and I think even more so if you went down the GT2 route.