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macua85

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Posts posted by macua85

  1. I've not printed too much with ninjaflex. Some feet for my ultimaker and some test robots! I find though that I get good layer adhesion and no feed problems at 240 degrees, flow 110%, 30mm/s and no fan. It's amazing stuff, pretty much rubber, uber flexible and bonds so well impossible to tear layers apart. Not tried rubbing it on anything, but it's stopped my ultimaker making marks on the table its sat on.

    I love the stuff, and have no problems printing it with a Bowden setup. I do have a dust filter with oil in it on the filament before the extruder, not sure if that's makes a difference or not, but reduces friction in Bowden a bit I'm sure.

    • Like 1
  2. Haha, I've given the frog to my brother! The accuracy is taken care of my the magnets and the locating cones idea that foehnsturm came up with. The head offsets are set in cura until they are perfectly aligned (although I think I can do more on that, will print more calibration items off).

    By using a wipe and prime tower, the oozing nozzle isn't a problem, as it just gets caught on that before moving to the print. I would still like to try to incorporate a wipe anyway though to neaten up the build area a bit. Here's a photo of a finished robot before cleaning up:

    image.thumb.jpg.c1fedfdab6fd37a2fed6f44330e4559e.jpg

    The White and orange are both pla. My next print I'm going to try abs and pla. I've done a njnjaflex and pla print which turned out ok, but pla doesn't adhere to ninjaflex that well.

    image.thumb.jpg.c1fedfdab6fd37a2fed6f44330e4559e.jpg

    • Like 2
  3. Time for an update. I've had a chance to run off the first proper dual extrusion print with the new setup. I have to say, i'm pretty pleased with the results. The parts cooling is still a bit of a work in progress, but I adapted my design to suit the position of the two different hotends. One of them sits in a different position due to the height adjustment mechanism.

    First test print robot results look good, I think this design is a keeper. Its a print and forget system now the e3d and jamming has been removed from the equation. The one screw height adjustment is also working as expected, no issues levelling the nozzles, and it stays good once set.

    Once again, at this moment i'd post pictures but the new website/forum is letting me down. I'll try again tomorrow.

  4. Did you select the correct printer when you upgraded the firmware? I think I've read people having this problem when they accidentally selected ultimaker original plus.

    Failing that, sound like maybe a short somewhere. Make sure the heater wires are not touching at all. I'd go over all of the wiring again and check it to make sure.

    You can test the power unit theory. Simply remove the pigtail between the heated bed circuit board and the ultimaker power in plug (the wire that came with the HBK). Then use the separate UMO power adapter to power the printer, and the HBK power adapter for the bed only. I run mine this way with not problems. The point is, should show if there is a power brick problem.

  5. I totally agree um should have fixed the feeder on the um2 a year ago.... but it's not a big issue imho.  You can easily print an alternative design, but a good feeder out of the box would be better.

    As for the nozzle/hot end after playing with an e3dv6 I really appriciate the um2 hot end... its pretty easy to maintain. When you get the 3th party olsson block it's even easier to change and clean.

     

    I agree with Ultiarjans sentiments here....although I have a UMO. I also tried the e3d but got constant jamming problems, and had to do crazy things like oil the filament AND hotend to get a print to complete. This affected the bed adhesion too. Since going back to a design using Ultimaker OEM components (all be it in enclosed in a different 'envelope'), I have had zero problems or jamming...or any prints failing due to hot end issues.

    I've also not replaced any teflon pieces despite only printing XT @250 degrees for hundreds of hours. For some reason the UMO doesn't get affected with the same teflon degradation. Maybe the peek is better insulator so less heat gets transferred?

  6. If the short belts are coming loose, its probably due to the motor not being tight enough. Is it a UMO or UM2? on a UMO its easy to fix...just lose motor screws, press down on motor until desired belt tension is reached, then retighten the screws. I imagine its the same procedure on the UM2, but may have to remove the motor shields.

    Also check your pulleys are tight while you are at it. There is a small grub screw in them which you can tighten with the appropriately sized hex key.

  7. Yup, the cooling fan seems to take care of it all. Ive printed an 8h 250 degree print with no issues. The cooling fan is ducted inside the unit to flow to underneath and the PTFE, pics show it better:

    I did learn the hard way though. Accidentally unplugged one of the fans and started a print...the PEEK crapped itself out of the bottom of the assemble within 5 mins.

    IMG_1682.thumb.jpg.c3a833622280ac7d1b414d69bfed5f3c.jpg

    IMG_1683.thumb.jpg.0d115804a0aa7e298a7be432e3677952.jpg

    IMG_1684.thumb.jpg.1960ee71a7b4159e01d62abc6cca8a1f.jpg

    IMG_1682.thumb.jpg.c3a833622280ac7d1b414d69bfed5f3c.jpg

    IMG_1683.thumb.jpg.0d115804a0aa7e298a7be432e3677952.jpg

    IMG_1684.thumb.jpg.1960ee71a7b4159e01d62abc6cca8a1f.jpg

    • Like 2
  8. Hmm, the drops are indicative of pla thats been sat in the nozzle for a while, and go super hot and dripped (instead of extruded) out. As gr5 mentions, perhaps its the feeder and grinding. The UM2 has a direct drive feeder, so the stepper and knurled bolt sleeve get very hot, and can melt the filament slightly. This leads to excessive grinding and the appearance of a blocked nozzle, but is in fact the material not feeding correctly.

    Its just a guess, I have a UMO!

  9. Hey guys,

    So i've glued (witt arctic thermal glue) larger heat sinks onto the umo steppers and replaced the Y stepper with a spare I had. Also cut some slots at the end of the stepper channel in the fan cover so the hot air can vent out properly. Hopefully all this will make the difference!

    Thanks for the input, will update if its not sorted.

    • Like 1
  10. Come to think of It, there was a preceding event before this problem. I left it on a print overnight, and woke up to the printer jammed and plastic pubes all over the place. The y rod had some sticky shite on it which caught he bearing a seized it all up solid. The x coupling was also rubbing against the plastic mount too. Think that could damage the stepper drivers or motors?

  11. Ok, give me some ideas guys. I keep getting failed prints on my ultimaker (my genuine one) at the moment. It's ironic my one made with cheap chinese parts is more reliable. Backgrounds info: it's direct drive with gt2.

    It just failed a 14h print during the last hour. I keep getting layer shifting, usually in the Y direction but sometimes both. Sometimes only a few mm, but enough to ruin print, sometimes a seismic shift. The axis are silky smooth with no catching or tightness anywhere. Pulleys are all super tight as are the couplings from motor to shafts. I'm stumped. No idea what's causing it. Happened on the last 5 prints I've attempted, same model file (which is sound, no issue with that). So much wasted filament! Could this be a stepper or stepper driver issue?

    Any help much appreciated, I can't keep wasting xt at the rate I am!

    Thanks

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