area0404
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Posts posted by area0404
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I guess since I am a China Chinese living in Singapore, I should give my two cents. There is nothing wrong with Chinese things. Honestly. However, remember this, you pay what you get. If it is suspiciously cheap, you get lousy stuff. That's usually the case there, here and anywhere. Do have that in mind before purchase.
Getting that out of the way, Chinese technological products tend to be good in design but lousy in production. The product itself is stellar and cheap but consistency suffers. One perfect example is YongNuo camera flash. Half the price for products of similar range, fantastic quality. BUT, 1 in 10 shipped to you is faulty. They are quick to answer and fast to replace but if it fails when you need it... You get what I mean.
Just keep that in mind and you should be all good.
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Only had UM2. Not too sure about UMO (but that was the reason I decided to go with a UM in the first place) but UM2 is really good!
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Natural PLA is food safe, yes. Additives during the filament production and your 3D printer itself is probably not. Lubricants or other additives like mould release agent (unlikely but who knows) or lubricants may be highly toxic. Don't suggest you to let your print job make direct contact with whatever you're preparing to eat.
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Agree with the above and remember to level the bed again after arrival just in case.
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Hello again fellow makers! I have a new patient (aka print) that i would need some advice with
Print settings:
Material: PLA
Layer height: 0.2
Shell thickness: 0.4
Bottom/top thick.: 1.2
Fill density: 5%
Print speed: 50mm/s
Temp: 210C
Bed temp: 60C
Diam: 2.85
Flow: 100
Retraction speed: 40
Ret. Dist. : 5mm
Here you can see how it's come out like for others: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:224878/#made
The 0.4 shell thickness might part of the reason, maybe 0,8 would be better.
What do you guys think?
From what I see, it seems to be built for a powder based printer. Doubt the details can be resolved well on a wire printer unless you print it really big.
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True - Your 3D printer will not benefit from a model that has a microscopically fine mesh resolution. It will be printing with a 0.4mm nozzle and a positioning resolution (not to be mistaken for accuracy!) somewhere in the 0.01mm range.
At some point I gave up drawing small circles in Sketchup with more than 24 segments - the printer will smooth it out anyways.
Agreed to that as well, filleting (unless really big ones are pretty much useless as well. Basically, forget details smaller than .4mm (not always but generally, yes). Rounding of sharp corners isn't that useful as well. Personally I find it better to print sharp and sand down for rounding corners.
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Curious how the robot seems to have turned out fine.
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Did some long and retraction-rich prints after changing into "https://www.youmagine.com/designs/alternative-um2-feeder-version-two"
, everything's okay now on the loosest setting without the material falling out of the feeder. There is still deep marks in places where UM2 retract on the same spot without reason (forgot to set min extrusion before retraction for that print), but no issue on feeding. Everything's running well now!
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Hmmm... I don't see how a soft feet would help. But well, never hurt to try. Off to the furniture shops!
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@Dim3nsioneer Hahahaha, I've heard bad things about travelling at 250mm/s. That on some machines, it may cause skipping. Currently travelling at 200mm/s. Though the lines can't be felt through touch (you will feel it if you scratch with fingernails though), it is visible. Not a problem now, but I foresee problems when I start printing product models which is what this machine is bought for. Z-hopping is something I wish to try but currently can't. The printer is situated in a room next to my parents and the raising and lowering of the platform to initial print position has waken my mother from sleep before (I usually do long prints at night). Z-hopping may be a little too noisy for my parents' liking.
@mnis Currently printing Rober's feeder! Hoping it would alleviate the problem. Maybe I'll add a fan in in future as well if problem persist.
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Thank you! I'll test it. Hope it works great!
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You're welcome. We know that the prefer way of doing things won't suit everyone, so there are options :smile:
(Also, if you change to RepRap flavor gcode, you can USB print. But stability of that is not guaranteed)
Went back to UltiGcode flavour for now though. Can't get the starting code running correctly. Hahahahahaha! Will try again when I got the free time with testing out more RepRep.
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@pm_dude Yep, doing that while printing a more open feeder, hope it will help with the issue. Though with the addon set with retraction only on top-most flag layer, it is currently printing alright in most cases.
@lRobertl I live in Singapore. According to a weather record, it is 33 to 26 celsius. It is seating in a shaded, well-ventilated area of my house so I think it is lower than that.
@Daid No, that addon reduces the amount of retraction as I was able to use combing in most cases and retraction only on the top most layer to reduce lines across the surface. Though the lines still exists :/
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It will endure at least a few years (I've seen PLA prints a few years old on a 3D printing shop's shelf). According to my past research, it lasts almost as long as normal plastic under standard condition. It is however highly biodegradable under condition of industrial compost which has much higher temperature compare to room temperature. Its endurance shouldn't be an issue.
However, your LED lighting may cause problems. The heat produce is likely to warp PLA in mere hours if they are placed together close enough. I think ABS may be a better choice here.
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One very obvious sign of this is that your print always start to go from normal printing to SEVERELY under-extruding in a few layers. Between the feeder able to grab onto the material and not being able to, there is a threshold. Hope this helps some ppl.
From my research (currently test printing too) the only solution is "Retraction While Combing".
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Took me a while to find the problem. The plastic near the feeder motor.
At first I thought it may be my feeder's pressure being too high. Then I realized that it was the heat produced by my constant extrusion & retraction melting the plastic itself.
And I am currently printing the feeder upgrader... Talking about luck...
Anyway gonna do without retracting but with pure combing, hoping the result won't be too bad.
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Agree with the previous commenter. You seem to have duplicated the entire model. The first image (black and blue mix) means that there are overlapping surfaces.
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I see your point. But so far, changing temp setting half way through has not been working great for me for some reason. Having a lot of strings during my last run, so I changed temp from 210 to 205 then to 200 on the fly. At first it printed fine, after I left however, it started to under-extrude in a major way. However, currently I'm printing on 200 from the beginning and it seems to be printing just fine.
I guess I'll test both setting on-machine and from gcode further to see which one I prefer in the end.
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THAT'S GREAT! TESTING IT OUT! THANK YOU VERY VERY MUCH!
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So, no way to modify it through Gcode? That's one thing I've not really like about Ultimaker 2 so far starting out with it. So many things have been "on the machine". Same goes for temperature control. Spent a while looking for that too. :/
Anyway, in the mean time shall go explore the menu on the Ultimaker 2 more indepth! Thank you!
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As stated in title, I can't find it anywhere. Online sources told me it is here under Machine. Nope.
I found some retraction related settings here. But Retraction Distance is not found.
Please help!
Comparison of Ultimaker 2 to Mankati XT
in UltiMaker 3D printers
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Agreed. Photo would be nice. Video would be really nice. Though I'm perfectly happy with my UM2, I would love to see what my countrymen have pulled out of their pocket as well,