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jeex

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  • Posts

    147
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  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  • Country
    NL
  • Industry
    Education
    (Product) design
    Engineering
    R&D / Exploration
  • On The Web

jeex's Achievements

35

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  1. Thanks Geert, i like the approach with the brass M3 screw thread.
  2. Sorry Greg, thanks for the reply, but I do not see anything in the video or link about cleaning the nozzle at the outside.
  3. Hi all, Happy printing again, this time with CPE and fine results. After printing a while, the nozzle gets cluttered up in filament. CPE is very stringy and produces some candy floss while printing. This becomes a problem after switching colour when it keeps making stains in the old colour through the new colour. So I need to clean the nozzle properly at the outside. So, question: what is best practice for cleaning the nozzle easily when switching colours? Thanks,
  4. Thanks. Processing it now. Also found an extension that shows the layer number.
  5. Or is there a way to show in the printer's LED at what layer the printer currently is?
  6. Hi All, My next project is printed in parts. One part needs to be added to the part that is in the printer. So, I manually pause the printer, so I can add the other part. Then, I continue printing. Question: is there a GCode Command that I can add in the GCode file, so that the printers pauses automatically at the right line? Or is there a function in Cura or a plugin that can do that? Thanks.
  7. So, feedback: I bought the very cheap Kexcelled PETG (or CPE) at Bol.com. Standard settings for CPE from Cura. Just a bit of candyfloss at the beginning. For the rest: really excellent printing. See the result. I replaced the old Volvo GPS device that goes up and down by a box that can hold my TomTom and contains a double USB plug. Very satisfied with the result.
  8. For the walls with infill I set the material flow back to 100%. Results are really fine. However it does demand patience as printing PETG is way slower than printing PLA. The candyfloss is not really getting in the way, but sometimes it forms a blob of material that settles down on inconvenient places. I'll share the end results here. By the way: what I'm printing now is a part for the dashboard in my Volvo C70 where I'm replacing the completely useless up-and-down GPS with a box for my own TomTom or smartphone.
  9. The surface with Fine settings is really beautiful. The walls with infill are a mess on the inside.
  10. Fun thing is: I work with international students, so I write and speak English all day. And then here, I forget 😱.
  11. Apologies, it's in English now.
  12. I'm printing PETG now, brand is Kexcelled. Printing is OK at 250 degrees Celsius. Question however: during printing i see this thin canyfloss threads. In the first layer this is worse than in the rest. I raised and lowered print temp to 260 and 240. Same results. I reduced flow to 90%, small improvement. Any suggestions? Thanks.
  13. Normally we make PETG filament in our own lab at NHL Stenden Uni in Emmen. We get shreds from local industries. On account of corona and reduced lab capacity, that's not possible. I'll buy some samples here and there and see what I like most and share results here. What I'm printing now is 4 year old PETG from Hestay.nl. It comes out nice enough.
  14. PETG is stronger and more durable and doesn't get brittle after a while. And PETG is food-safe. I don't want to print ABS because of the smell and it's not food-safe. PETG is just as easy to print as PLA. However it is confusing, all the names en materials: CPE CPE+ PETG PC-PETG Still doing the research on them. Every brand seems to use different names.
  15. Thanks for all the help. I'm coaching a few students in my minor program Creative Programming for Non-IT Students and they are all surprised by the help they get when asking questions online. Share the love 😉 Printing old transparent PETG with CPE settings. The printhead leaves small crums here and there on a surface, but the result is fine. Thanks, you got me going again.
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