Remy
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Posts posted by Remy
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Hi Charles10,
Could you post a picture of your print head from this angle:
Filament should not be flooding into the coupler, nor should PLA bond to the PTFE. Have you done any Atomic pulls? I suggest doing a few Atomic pulls when you change filament to make sure your nozzle is clear.
Guide here --> https://ultimaker.com/en/support/view/149-atomic-method
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Here's a link to a 20mm cube that prints successfully, but it clicks like crazy. Parameters are as follows:
Layer Height - .1mm
Print Speed - 35mm/s (30mm/s bottom layer)
Temp (Extruder/Bed) - 215/70
Flow - 100%
Well, that isn't Cura code, but your issue is the E steps. Basically, the way this model sliced, you are trying to extrude WAY too much filament. A normal value would be like E0.57321, but this code is like E3.26400. I'm not sure why this is. Was this code generated using S3D?
Also, what version of Cura are you using? This is not a mechanical problem with the printer, but instead an issue with your slicer. It's no wonder the feeder is kicking back.
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Build plate is totally level. The clicking happens during all stages of printing, whether it is the first layer, or the last.
Have you touched the feeder tension at all?
If you can supply the gcode for a model that is giving you problems, I can also try printing it to see if I can recreate the issue. What @neotko said about the extruder motor power command in the gcode from S3D is also viable, but I don't have a license for S3D so I can't confirm.
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If this has any deformation where it touches the hot end then it could be your problem.
That's what I was getting at.
Could also be that his Bowden tube isn't fully inserted so that it touches the coupler, and filament could be getting caught at that point and not even making it into the nozzle. But I think my money is on the PTFE coupler too with the amount of print time. -
Hi kerberg,
Quality and speed is a trade-off. THIS guide gives a lot of tips on different print settings and values, and how to adjust for different issues which can affect the final quality of a model. I think nozzle temperatures are also covered briefly under the section on stringing.
It can be trial and error to find the best settings for you, but this is what I normally use for "high quality":
Nozzle temp: 205-210 C
Print speed: 50mm/s
Layer height: 0.06mm [60 microns]
I would suggest to start with those settings and work from there. Basically, the faster you print, the hotter the nozzle temp must be, and vice versa. You can actually print PLA very cool, around 190 C, but you would need to print very slow in order for this to work. Printing cooler can help with the quality of overhangs and reduces stringing, but you are not able to extrude as much material through the nozzle the cooler you go, so it is a trade-off.
Also, as far as layer height goes, anything between 60-100 microns looks "high quality" to me. Printing >60 microns usually will take much, much longer and can be difficult as very thin layers will cool down more quickly, so could actually warp (even with PLA). Unless it's very important to your purposes for some reason, printing >60 micron layer heights is not worth it in my opinion. But of course, beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
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Hi PattyChuck,
The feeder kicking back (sounds like "tock-tock") indicates that the filament is not forwarding properly for some reason. Have you re-leveled the build plate? Sometimes if the nozzle is leveled too close to the bed, not enough filament can get out and the feeder will kick back due to the buildup of pressure this causes in the print head.
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HI Guys,
I received my printer back from Ultimaker today. They did a fantastic job servicing it and everything came back lubricated and in perfect condition. They did apparently change they y,x and z axis limit switches. The offset printhead seems to still be there however. This makes mes believe it is a software 'quirk' that will hopefully be addressed in the near future. The printer prints beautifully right now so I am very pleased. The community and Ultimaker itself are fantastic for resolving problems and I will not hesitate to recommend them in the future. Thanks for all your help everyone.
David-Speedy
Glad to hear you are back up and running Speedy!
Did you receive any specific reply from Ultimaker support about the offset print head? Or did they say that is just how it is supposed to be? I guess if they changed the limit switches it shouldn't be a mechanical thing. I will have to check and see if the 2 Go I have access to does the same thing.
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What about when you do "move material" from advanced menu?
Works fine
What about when you do the Atomic method?
guide here --> https://ultimaker.com/en/support/view/149-atomic-method
Have you only ever printed PLA, or have you printed other materials?
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Used to be ok, but now its back again with 15.04.02:
After changing material mid print (pause function) the material retracts 5mm and the machine prints with nothing.
The issue was fixed with 15.02.02. Can you fix this?
You can check to see if it's already a known issue for 15.04.2 on the github, or open an issue if it's not. The Cura github is here: https://github.com/Ultimaker/Cura
You can also just re-install a previous version if you prefer it. You can have multiple versions of Cura installed on one pc without any issue.
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First start: the settings do not show anything because, and this took a while to find out, there is no profile choosen. For a beginner this might be confusing because nothing seems to work.
I second this. I was puzzled and I'm not a beginner. One of the global profiles should be set as a default upon first startup.
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Threw away a complete spindle a couple months back for exactly the same issue... Also UM silver.
I've also run into this issue before. It's possible there was a bad batch of silver metallic or something similar. I had a couple spools lately that printed very gritty and in general extruded badly. The bearing you printed doesn't look to be gritty like the filament I saw, but could be related. Hopefully it was just one batch/a couple spools, and considering it got distributed to the entire world there are probably a few more unhappy users out there as well.
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Standard firmware, version 15.04.02ex
Updated using Cura 15.06.03
I've had reports of 15.06.03 still causing issues. You can also revert to 15.04.2 Cura (legacy version) which is basically the same and a bit more stable as far as I can tell. You can download 15.04.2 here: https://ultimaker.com/en/cura-software/list
I would also look at the model in layer view in Cura to see if the gaps are present there as well. I'd also recommend looking at the gcode itself in a free gcode viewer like the one here: http://gcode.ws/
If the gaps appear in the layer view in Cura or with the gcode viewer then it is a problem with the slicing engine not outputting correct code.
If not then it could be a mechanical problem. Are you sure that you're not just getting some under extrusion? How far does the build plate lower (approx)? In the first photo of the cylinder model it looks like it only missed a couple layers, which could be caused by under extrusion as then it picked back up again ok. Under extrusion looks like the photo in the guide below:
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide#underextrusion
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I was printing at that temperature because I've been having issues with under extrusion, even after making sure the print head wasn't clogged. I think the culprit may be the filament feed mechanism. Mine appears to be grinding the filament pretty severely, can anyone tell me where the little white tension indicators should be on an Ultimaker 2 Go? Mine came from he factory clear at the top, but I read here not he forums that anything after mid-2014 should be in the middle. Is this correct?
Generally what's recommended is between the top and the middle indicator lines for the feeder tension. However, grinding is caused when the feeder is kicking back consistently over one section of filament. When the feeder kicks back, it says "tock-tock," and indicates that the filament is unable to forward for some reason. A common cause is a clog or blockage in the nozzle or Bowden tube, which can also contribute to under extrusion.
Have you performed the Atomic method to make sure there is no material built up in the nozzle? I've linked to a guide on the Atomic method below. I usually do this whenever I change filament as I find it convenient to do so when the material is already unloaded.
https://ultimaker.com/en/support/view/149-atomic-method
In addition, I would check to make sure the filament is not wound too tightly on the spool. This can contribute to under extrusion by adding friction to the filament which causes the feeder gear struggle. Some users have had success with cutting off enough material for the next job and printing with the loose material off the spool. But allowing a little slack for the filament as it comes off the spool or adding a drop of sewing machine oil can also help correct under extrusion. Robert's visual troubleshooting guide addresses the causes for under extrusion brilliantly so I would recommend having a read of that as well.
Another good rule of thumb is the hotter you print, the faster you can print. The reverse is also true (the cooler you print, the slower you have to go). Printing at 210 C I would keep speeds at or under about 40 mm/s. If you go up to 230 you can increase your print speeds a bit more as the material will be melting faster and extruding more smoothly.
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Sorry for the late reply :(, I was away on holiday.
This video shows the clicking noise. It is best heard nearer the end of the video and occurs with the beeping sound on retraction.
If you have any idea what it could be caused by please let me know and thank you again for your previous help.
Speedy
Sorry for the late reply myself, been very busy at work lately :(
Thanks for the video. It sounds like when the filament retracts, something is rubbing on something else. I actually saw the material on the spool moving back during a retraction, could it be the spool catching on something?
Else, it may be something inside the feeder. A lodged piece of filament stuck on the extruder gear? The beep-beep of the retraction sounds normal enough, but the scratchy sound would indicate that there is definitely something rubbing somewhere when that happens. Does the noise occur at any other time or strictly only during retraction?
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I must say I like the clean look of having no checkerboard. I may have to tinker with the shader for the buildplate...
I kinda do too! Now if only the tools for the settings would show up, I'd have nothing to complain about.
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Encountered the following issue with Cura 15.06.01 and 15.06.02:
The build plate background isn't loading, and the tools for rotate/scale etc aren't appearing when the object is selected.
Two computers were tried, both running Win7.
Any tips? 15.04 works fine on both of the computers Cura 15.06.01 and .02 isn't working on.
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It is a faint tick or click. The increased temperature from 210-230 seems to have helped with the chewing of filament however.
The increased printing temp is moving filament more quickly through the nozzle, so less time for the gear to grind away at it. Also a rule of thumb is the faster you print, the hotter your nozzle temp needs to be and vice versa (cooler temps, slower print speeds). Good to hear you resolved the grinding at least.
However I'd be very interested to see a video of this faint clicking noise.
Is there anything moving about on the print head when the filament retracts? Sometimes the white collet that the Bowden tube slides into can jump with the tube when the filament is retracting if the blue horseshoe clip doesn't have a good grip on it, or if the collet has worn away. -
The retraction of filament is definitely on purpose as it is when the print head jumps from 1 side of a print to another. The filament retracts fine as well, there is just a subtle click as this happens.
The retraction itself makes a sound (says "beep"). There's a video of it below.
If this is what is happening, this is normal. However, if your feeder is making the "tock" sound instead, that would be the kick back caused by pressure or blockage. There's a video of the "tock" sound below.
Are you sure it isn't just the retraction sound after all?
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Is there anything I should check for with regards to the motor connected to the grinder wheel? I've noticed that on retraction the motor clicks but not on extrusion. Any ideas as to what that could be?
When the feeder kicks back (says "tock"), it indicates that the filament is unable to forward for some reason. This can be due to either a clog in the nozzle, some pressure/excess material in the Bowden tube or feeder, or just trying to print too fast. If it's happening on retractions, it could be caused by the change in pressure in the Bowden tube when the retraction is over and the filament is pushed back up to the nozzle.
What are the retraction settings you're using? And have you changed filament other than unloading to cut the ends off, or done the Atomic method yet? Are you using the filament guide that came with the printer? I can't remember if they stopped shipping those with the UM2Go or not, but if you are it's not necessary and could be generating undue friction on the filament as it feeds. This could contribute to the grinding issue as well.
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I think your spacing is off.
This picture shows the spacing really well. You're only supposed to have ~1mm between the hot end isolator (metal part above nozzle+heaterblock) and the PTFE.
Here's a diagram I found in another thread that shows it well too.
That's one nasty coupler! Definitely time for a change
About how many hours of printing did it see?-
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Hi Speedy,
Someone else had an issue with the feeder gear becoming too hot and flattening out their PLA as it rolled between the knurled wheel and the bearing. That was solved by cooling the feeder, and I think it was in this thread.
Just in case though, you can check to make sure your filament isn't getting caught on anything as it's feeding in, and that there's no excess material in the feeder or nozzle.
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http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/56-replacing-the-ptfe-coupler
This is the guide I always keep open for reference while I'm doing PTFE coupler replacements.
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Hi Mirko,
I looked at the gcode using this gcode viewer: http://gcode.ws/
If you look at file in the 3D view, you can see that the portion that connects the vertical part to the flat area didn't get sliced. I'd recommend running your part through netfabb basic repair to make sure everything's watertight, etc.
Netfabb basic: http://www.netfabb.com/downloadcenter.php?basic=1
You can repair the part under Extras>Repair part. This usually works for me.
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Only thing I can think is perhaps Combine Everything Type-A is doing something strange. Selecting No Skin under the Enable Combing expert options may help with a nicer surface finish as well.
Could also be that his Bowden tube isn't fully inserted so that it touches the coupler, and filament could be getting caught at that point and not even making it into the nozzle. But I think my money is on the PTFE coupler too with the amount of print time.
UM2 Extruder Issues
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Start code from Cura should look like this:
;FLAVOR:UltiGCode
;TIME:9200
;MATERIAL:10605
;MATERIAL2:0
;Layer count: 915
;LAYER:0
Your start code looks like this:
M190 S70.000000
M109 S215.000000
;Sliced at: Thu 24-09-2015 09:03:36
;Basic settings: Layer height: 0.1 Walls: 0.8 Fill: 15
;Print time: 39 minutes
;Filament used: 2.635m 20.0g
;Filament cost: None
;M190 S70 ;Uncomment to add your own bed temperature line
;M109 S215 ;Uncomment to add your own temperature line
G21 ;metric values
G90 ;absolute positioning
M82 ;set extruder to absolute mode
M107 ;start with the fan off
G28 X0 Y0 ;move X/Y to min endstops
G28 Z0 ;move Z to min endstops
G1 Z15.0 F9000 ;move the platform down 15mm
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length
G1 F200 E5 ;extrude 3mm of feed stock
G92 E0 ;zero the extruded length again
G1 F9000
;Put printing message on LCD screen
M117 Printing...
;Layer count: 198
;LAYER:0
Does the printer give you a message telling you that you are overriding machine settings when you initiate a print? It did on the UM2 I tried the gcode on. I'm not sure why Cura would output a start code like that, or what's going on with the extrusion rates.
You could try to uninstall/reinstall, or you could also try an older version of Cura. If you want to help the developers fix the problem, you can log it as an issue on the github HERE.
I'm not a software/slicing engine expert, so I can't say why your Cura is slicing like this. :( My 15.04.2 Cura works just fine.