[3dSolex Installation Support]

Ordered my olsson block and afew nozzles from 3dsolex and it arrived within 1 week of ordering (sent to Melbourne, Australia).

Installed on my UM2 almost without a problem apart from having to replace my temp sensor since it was stuck (I was expecting it).

I have to say it prints beautifully!! I'm really looking forward to trying the different size nozzles.

Excellent service from 3dsolex and a great design. Best upgrade for the UM2.

[Share Your Print Speeds/Settings]

Here's mine so far:

Machine: UM2 (Roberts feeder)

Material: UM Silver/Black/Bronze

Print Temp: 210C

Bed Temp: 60C

Fan Speed: 100%

Flow Rate: 100%

Print Speed: 50mm/s

Layer Height: 0.1mm

Machine: UM2 (Roberts feeder)

Material: ColorFabb XT

Print Temp: 240C

Bed Temp: 70C

Fan Speed: 100%

Flow Rate: 100%

Print Speed: 50mm/s

Layer Height: 0.1mm

Machine: UM2 (Roberts feeder)

Material: ColorFabb Bronzefill

Print Temp: 220C

Bed Temp: 60C

Fan Speed: 100%

Flow Rate: 104%

Print Speed: 50mm/s

Layer Height: 0.1mm

Machine: UM2 (Roberts feeder)

Material: NinjaFlex

Print Temp: 220C

Bed Temp: 45C

Fan Speed: 100%

Flow Rate: 100%

Print Speed: 15mm/s

Layer Height: 0.2mm

Machine: UM2 (Roberts feeder)

Material: Taulman Bridge (Nylon)

Print Temp: 245C

Bed Temp: 45C

Fan Speed: 0% (OFF)

Flow Rate: 100%

Print Speed: 50mm/s

Layer Height: 0.1mm

[Grinding??]

What brand of PLA are you using ?

I've had this happen with a roll of unknown PLA that was given to me...it didn't handle retractions well at all and would grind very easily.

[We made it, the New Cura]

I can't really see the problem, you just ignore the fact that the auto slicing is going on and go about your work of changing settings, adding things etc.. There is no need to wait for anything.

[Weird slicing of model]

Thanks for the replies mate. Funny how such simple things make all the difference!

[Weird slicing of model]

Those dots that you talk about are they the yellow ones in the picture above?

These are infill layers, in cura 15.04 the infill is put down before the outer layers.

increase your bottom layer thickness to 0.3 as this will help solve all those travels on the first layer.

 

Yes that's right, the yellow ones around the outer edge. I'm finding simplify3d is just simply printing two shells without doing any of those moves. If the model was thicker, this wouldn't bother me, but it's leaving blemishes around the outer edge since the model is so thin and these moves continue all the way to the top .

I've tried increasing the bottom layer, same problem, changed to infil/outer perimeter order, same problem. The only way I could fix the problem was to change the shell thickness to 0.9 as can be seen here. I understand this isn't ideal but is there any problem doing this ?

[Weird slicing of model]

I'm trying to print the following file and am having a problem slicing it in cura 15.04.2.

http://www.thingiverse.com/download:591243

It's evident from the first layer, the circle around the outer edge start off printing in dots and dashes with gaps in between as can be seen here and then get printed over with the full circle. The problem continues on throughout the model.

I've tried slicing it with simplify3d and the problem is not there.

Anyone have any idea on what is going on here ?

[Cura 15.10 Open Beta]

I've noticed when rotating a model, the pivot point (or whatever you want to call it) is not in the center of the model. So rotating actually sinks it into the platform and it stays there.

[A Tale of Two Printers]

I had some noise on mine, which sounded a lot like a noisy fan. In the end, I found out that it was just on of the folded corners of the metal shroud (circled in the picture) that was vibrating against itself, it got noisier and quieter depending on what the printer was doing at the time. I just bent it slightly and the noise went away.

[Start gcode]

Ah yes... I've seen that

Nice work!!

[Why did the filament break?]

Very interesting this came up now. I just started printing with a new roll of UM silver after going through another roll of it without problems. The new roll prints fine but I've had it break just below the feeder (below the last retraction after a finished print) after it was left on the printer overnight (not printing). This has happened two nights in a row. The lowest temperature in the room while the printer was left idle would have been around 16C. It almost looks as if the filament tried to return to a curved shape and snaps.

Then when removing the remaining filament from the bowden tube, I can snap it very easily without much force.

The stuff on the roll that hasn't passed through the printer, takes a little more force to snap, bends slightly, then snaps, whereas I've got some black UM PLA and I can almost fold it on to itself before it snaps.

[Start gcode]

I think it's real stupid that they mess with the current in there default UM2 profile

 

I agree, not sure what the reasoning is behind that.

Any particular reason you have it start in the middle ?

I'm still experimenting with simpify3d, getting decent prints but sometimes not as good as I want, especially in regards to blobs/stringing.

[Start gcode]

I've been using simplify3d for printing some models on my UM2, mainly models requiring support. One thing I've noticed is in the start code, the command M907 E1400 exists to increase stepper motor current.

I'd much rather use the default current on the UM2.

By removing that line, am I right in saying that the current will be controlled by the firmware on the UM2 ?

Does the same go for things like acceleration etc.. where if they are not in the gcode, they default to the machines firmware settings ?

Thanks

[Cold pull temperature for colored XT]

I pull colored XT at 90 to 100 degrees.

For cleaning the nozzle I use Nylon.

 

At what temperature are you pulling nylon at ?

["Move material" grinding filament]

Thanks so much guys. It seems when I thought I was putting a lot of tension on things, I was actually not putting anywhere near enough.

I've dialed in a fair bit more tension on the feeder, spring length (when compressed) is now down to 10.5mm. Now during "move material" I can go a lot faster than before and it continues to extrude without grinding. When I really crank things up fast, it skips back as it's supposed to do.

["Move material" grinding filament]

Thanks for the quick reply..

The markings on mine are kind of in between the two examples you posted. I'll take a picture later on and post it up.

I might try and go tighter, just a little scared of putting too much tension on the feeder. I'm using the default yoke on Roberts feeder and my tensioned spring length is around 12.5mm.

Thanks

["Move material" grinding filament]

Hi all,

I recently upgraded the feeder on my Ultimaker 2 to Roberts alternate feeder V2, mainly to print flexible filaments. I'm very happy with the way it performs, prints no problems with every material I've tried, for long periods of time.

The only small issue I have is when loading filament, I normally go to push the filament through manually, then go to "'move material" and feed some through the nozzle.

The thing with doing this is, it grinds the filament unless I go extremely slowly, I have to be ever so careful, regardless of tension on the feeder. But then when printing, regardless of speed, there are no problems whatsoever.

Does the "move material" function have a different amount of torque or something like that ?