JohnK
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Posts posted by JohnK
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Having just ordered a UM3 to sit along side my UM2+, I'm very curious about the new hot ends or "print cores".
Does anyone have any details about them, like whether they incorporate a TFM coupler similar to the UM2+ or is it a completely different design. Also what kind of lifespan are we looking at before needing to replace them etc..
Thanks!!
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Just wondering what happened to the Ultimaker bronze PLA, I've noticed it was removed from my local (Australia) resellers website and upon checking Ultimaker's website, realised it's missing there too.
This was one of my favourite filaments.
Is there any plans to bring it back in the future ?
Innofil have the same/similar colour but I can't find anyone to ship to Australia.
Thanks
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I'm getting a creaking noise which seems to only occur as the head is moving along the Y axis in one direction (from the back of the machine to the front).
Seems to be coming from the rear left side of the machine, which prompted me to replace the small flanged bearing which didn't solve the problem.
My thoughts are now maybe the Y stepper motor but unsure if they make noise like that.
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Been very happy with the upgrade, my printer was printing fine before the upgrade apart from some small top surface issues. Those issues are sorted out now too.
With the upgrade, it's printing flawlessly, finished a 36hour print on the weekend and it's perfect from start to finish.
So definitely no issues with it here
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You are definitely not the only one waiting. We ordered our kit here in Australia back at the start-mid march and still waiting for it. We have now been told maybe the end of this week or possible the start of June. Have to wait and see
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Same in Australia, still waiting, it's gone from mid April to mid May now... so have to wait another month
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So far, the long prints I've done have been fairly detailed so I've only used the 0.4mm nozzle.
The longest print I've done was just under 30 hours.
I'm in the process of printing this Toyota engine http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:644933, I've printed everything except the block which is a 35 hour print with the 0.4mm nozzle, I may go up to 0.6mm not sure yet.
I have used the 0.8mm for vases and bowls which saved a huge amount of time and the quality is really nice!!
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Thanks for the link. This company provides a checkout with items that remain the same price no matter the quantity. Each item says (tax incl.). Then it asks which shipping you would like and beside the price it says (tax incl.). Postage does not require tax. Then after these two prices it lists the tax amount (?!!!). The tax amount actually increases if you choose the higher postage rate option. This is very dodgy. Also, when you fill out your address details, it asks you for your address line one, address line two, postcode, country, home phone, mobile phone and then finally your state, in that order. First of all, who puts a phone number field before a state field? And secondly, why are both my home and mobile phone numbers required with a red asterisk? These options of filling out my address appeared only after I'd filled out a previous form that said 'error: you have not filled out all required fields'. Those fields were not there a moment ago. This website is dodgy as hell.
I honestly didn't notice, I probably should pay more attention.
I ordered my items at what I thought was a reasonable price, put my details in and received them with no hassles whatsoever.
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Does the spindle fit an Ultimaker2? Where can I buy it in Australia please?
The Taulman spools will not fit on the Ultimaker 2 filament holder, there are quite afew designs that can be printed to hold the spools.
You can buy it from http://www.3dprintergear.com.au/80-nylon .... I've bought from them and was happy with their service.
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Tried reloading the firmware, still having the same issue... didn't have the issue with 16.01
...in this case there's a chance that it depends on the displayed values...
If it works with V16.01 - can you share a picture of the screen? I've no other idea a.t.m.
Here's a pic of my stats (was taken while on 16.01)
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@Tinkergnome , just thought I'd mention, in the latest version of the firmware 16.03 for UM2, when I select "runtime stats", the machine just reboots instead of displaying the stats.
Thanks
That's normal - your printer's lifetime has expired...
(just kidding)Seriously: is it reproducible? Has anyone else noticed the same behaviour?
Tried reloading the firmware, still having the same issue... didn't have the issue with 16.01
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@Tinkergnome , just thought I'd mention, in the latest version of the firmware 16.03 for UM2, when I select "runtime stats", the machine just reboots instead of displaying the stats.
Thanks
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I'd say setting the extrusion multiplier to 1.0 will fix the problem
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Nice work, the prints came out great too.
I've only really used the 0.8mm nozzle for vases and stuff like that.
Out of curiosity, what settings did you use to print those brackets ?
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Sweet. Let me know how the upgrade goes. I'm looking at getting one myself.
Will do, lead time when I ordered was listed at 2-3 weeks so hopefully I get it sooner rather than later
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Don't remove the side panel. loosen the pulleys as you explained. Just make sure they are nice and tight when you put it all back.
Thanks mate. Something to do when I get my extruder upgrade
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Lately, I have been getting a creaking kind of sound coming from my machine. I've narrowed it down to one of the bearings on the rear X axis/shaft, in particular, the bearing on the left of the machine, closest to the rear.
What is involved in replacing one of these bearings, is it just a matter of loosening the pulley/s and sliding the rod out to get to the bearing or am I better off removing the side panel and doing it that way ?
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Can anyone confirm whether the problem of Ultimaker filament breaking has been fixed ?
I want to buy some and am not sure whether to do so yet or not.
Thanks
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Ok, I've been looking over this some more and I guess the actual problem I'm having is this. Let's say you're making an M3 screw and nut. If I were to go by the numbers given by the wiki I would get threads that have absolutely no clearance between them. If you play around with any screw and nut you know that there is some tolerances involved.
If I measure an M3 screw here on my desk for example, it's actually 2.85mm. Same for a nut, the internal diameter is larger than 3mm. This is of course needed to make them work properly. So I guess what I need to know is how I calculate that tolerance?
Maybe I should change the title as it has more to do with the numbers than the actual modelling of the threads (I know how to do that).
Am I making any sense here?
Yes you are making sense.. Here's how I've been doing it, works most of the time, but sometimes I need to add 0.5mm onto "D" for the internal thread depending on the pitch and filament used
For External Thread (this example is 8mmx1.5)...
My equations as follows (exactly how I write them in solidworks):
D = 8 (used later for calculating the diameter of the bolt/shaft etc..)
P = 1.5
H = cos ( 30 ) * "P"
A = "H" / 8
B = "H" / 4
For the diamater of the bolt/shaft (what you are asking):
"D" - ( "H" / 8 )
For Internal Thread (example also 8mmx1.5)
Equations are the same except for calculating the diameter of the hole, which is:
"D" - ( 1.082532 * "P* )
These work with eachother as well as with real fasteners.
Also note, I'm using the swept cut method (not sure what other methods there are)
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I have now began to have this problem, all was working fine before and like others, walls print fine, no underextrusion / no filament slipping.
I actually first started noticing it while using a 0.8mm nozzle (Olsson block). It is happening with all nozzle sizes, fairly consistently.
Things I've tried to remedy the problem...
- Cleaned and re oiled the axis
- Was using Roberts feeder, tried the standard feeder, no difference (apart from making life more difficult)
-Tightened the short belts as much as I could
- Tried different filament brands / colours
When I get a chance, I will post some pictures.
One thing I have noticed (could be my imagination), when pushing filament through, even by hand, the extruded material doesn't seem as thick / swelled as it used to. The nozzles I'm using are clean. Could room temperature play a part ?
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Get in contact with imaginables.com.au , they should be able to help you out.
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One thing I've come across while using this great firmware... When the printer generates a "heater error" and stops printing, the nozzle just stays where it is and it's like the feeder continues to try and extrude filament endlessly, I had to turn the machine off to stop it. I'm not sure whether this happens in the standard firmware.
Is there a reason the printer doesn't home the head when this happens ?
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@gr5 it's apparently a feature since version 15.07.3
From the github releases page...
changed in this release:
Configurable heater timeout to prevent carbonized residues in the nozzle
- cool down nozzle after a configurable period of inactivity (Preferences -> Heater timeout)
- (re-)heat nozzle if necessary (to resume a paused print or change material)
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The message is only letting you know that "Print one at a time" (in the tools menu) has been disabled because the object would be too tall to print something else after it if you put something else on the build platform in cura.
(just kidding)
Print cores
in UltiMaker 3D printers
Posted
Thanks for the replies, sounds like a very interesting design.. Really looking forward to getting my printer