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Everything posted by JATMN

  1. This is likely a dumb question but I wanted to double check.. before I hut myself lol Hacking up a Ultimaker 2 Clone and rebuilding the head completely (if I can) But wanted to check on a few things ahead of time I see the UM2 uses a 24v heater core.. Will the mainboard handle any standard 24v <40w core like the ones used in MK9/10 heads? (yes I know these are too big for the Ultimaker2 brass block. Also, does the mainboard support 100k sensors? I know its just a switch in the firmware settings, but does it read these as well? I know most mainboards dont read pt100 sensors without some modifications.. but wasn't sure if this meant the board couldn't read other sensors now. *please don't hurt me* Thanks!
  2. yea thats.. way past the life cycle of the ptfe insulator.
  3. no big deal, i solder another chip on the display board,replacing the damaged chip, and now it works fine Glad yours was easy... mine has dead E1 and E2 drivers..
  4. I spent several hours on this.. I was able to cross the extruder over to the Z plug header.. but I was never able to get the Z to work on E1 or E2.. really sucks because I *think* that is all thats wrong with the board :(
  5. Yea jumper's both there. And my steppers work on X Y Z but none of them work on e1 or e2 have both .9 and 1.8 steppers and it won't buzz either motor type.. If I move the motor to X Y Z works fine
  6. Didn't work.. :( Section 72 for pins.h Was.. #define E0_STEP_PIN 42#define E0_DIR_PIN 43#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 37#define E1_STEP_PIN 49#define E1_DIR_PIN 47#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 48 Is.. #define E0_STEP_PIN 49#define E0_DIR_PIN 47#define E0_ENABLE_PIN 48#define E1_STEP_PIN 42#define E1_DIR_PIN 43#define E1_ENABLE_PIN 37 didnt make a difference.. put known working steppers on both E1 and E2 at same time didnt even make them buzz.. this was in repeater/s3d as well as "move material" from the display. all with hotend heated to 190-210C :(
  7. OMG thats totally what I was looking for!! will report back my results for everyone else.. Also thanks for the heads up.. thought it was interesting the board came with little heatsinks.. ill be sure to put a fan on this thing lol
  8. Is there a way to switch over to E2 in the firmware? Disable E1 vs Disable E2?
  9. and you are doing a full test with the heater one I assume? You are aware there's a protection that the extruder won't work below a certain temperature? Yea I read about that.. I confirmed the heater was to proper temps.. I have a actual UM2 sitting next to me as well.. I also found out that because I couldn't finish my build due to delays in customs for other parts I had on order.. I cant open a depute on this controller because im less than a day late of the cut of.. *crys*
  10. lest you got to the 5th day.. my controller wont drive the stepper motor for the extruder! :(
  11. I have been building this printer as well recently.. but I ran into an issue with my ulticontroller. :( I know its cheap china crap issue likely.. but I cant get any stepper to move on E1 (move filament or load filament) doesn't do anything..
  12. Thanks for giving an actual response and not just blasting me. lol Not had my UM2 but a couple of months and getting use to this firmware
  13. - Sorry not sure why it double posted a edit.. -
  14. Yea that was what I was referring too.. another point of failure for a jam.. :/
  15. The Spacer replaces the spring above the PTFE just like on the new UM2+ models. helps stop constant pressure from the spring, deforming the PTFE. Ah!... https://d3v5bfco3dani2.cloudfront.net/photo/image/2500x0/56a91e7edbf70.jpg I was looking at that picture and figured the black ring was another spacer going under the PTFE.. Yea I seen top spacers before..
  16. Hmmm... Not seen the spacers myself.. but in theory sounds like a bad idea to me to have a spacer in between the PTFE and the olsson block.. thats just another transition point for material to get stuck in.. stock with an olsson.. you already have the PTFE to Block transition.. then Block to Nozzle transition. So you have 2 places where the material could *potentially* get stuck if either are loose or not mating correctly.. this was the one pro of running the stock ultimaker block was only 1 transition point to troubleshoot..adding a spacer you just added a additional point of failure for smooth feeding of filament.. Meaning you have 3 possible issue points to possibly induce feeding issues. Just my thoughts on the matter though.. Thx for the link!
  17. Over all my print issues in regards to feed seems to be resolved.. I did have to change first layer to .2 rather than .3 because I level the bed closer than most it seems.. But I am able to now print with material flow set to standard 100% I have also done equally successful prints with S3D as well.. So I am considering that part of the issue resolved. I *think* I have the 15.01 firmware.. I believe I updated it earlier this month. But I will have to double check that this afternoon.. Looks like I also have to take the head apart again and see what my heater core is.. I never really looked at the marked specs when I installed the olsson block.. Also.. TFT?? Im in manufacturing myself.. Honestly having an issue locating a source or even a material compound specification for TFT.. I see TFE/FEP/PCTFE/PTFE.. The materials I can source is rated for 500F/260C.. TFT is generally related to mini color LCD displays..
  18. I don't know a lot about this one.. but to me.. 3.68mm is a massive gap.. I only have about 1.3-1.5mm gap on mine.. I don't think yours is going down far enough it should be touching the top of the olsson block.. inside the steel coupler.... If you bought one of the PTFE insulators from china its the wrong size.. they make them oversize and they dont fit down in the coupler correctly.. some reason they think there needs to be a pressure seal between the ptfe and the steel.. when the main issue is having a equal seal between the PTFE and steel as well as the PTFE and the top of your extruder block... The ones I have picked up from china were completely over sized and never touched the top of the block. Also can I get the link for that fan shroud
  19. @Kathy7 I think he meant how many hours total do you have on that Teflon coupler.. it is a wear and tear item that needs replaced occasionally based on usage.
  20. I can probably get away with .1 or .15 first layer.. I have to up my speed to 40mm/s else I have over extrusion still because of how close I level the bed.. I am use to my direct drive which wont care even if its leveled with the nozzle on the glass..
  21. JATMAN!!! that like BATMAN? lol I like that.. (its actually an abbreviation ) @yellowshark, when printing the first layer regardless of thickness your slicer software (I presume cura is used in this case) will -over- extrude the first layer to help with sticking to the bed as well as compensate for any out of alignment of the bed leveling. So lets consider a scenario for a moment.. say we level the bed with a Ultimaker card specified in the first post which measured in at .12 and we want to print at .2 layer height. presuming cura default (at least on mine it did this) to do a .3 first layer would be okay because (generally a even multiplayer of your set layer thickness at around 100 - 150%) but basically your trying to force .3 worth of material in a gap of .12 this will force the layer to be bold. But will help it stick as well as compensate for any warp in the bed that might make the gap larger or small than .12 Considering above.. Now we want to print at .1 layer (or ever .050!).. well .12 is quite high and we will need again to use a .3 first layer to get a good first layer and stick well. But this could make for a ugly first layer due to the rest being .1 (or .050) so lets level with .10 paper now.. this brings the gap down considerably across the surface of the bed. Remember if there is any up warps (all printers have some sort of warp in the bed) we just potentially caused the nozzle to get closer than intended to the surface. Pushing .3 into this now smaller gap would cause lots of over extrusion as well as back pressure on the extruder depending how hot your printing. So lets use a .2 first layer for our print now.. should get a nice clean first layer with minimal over extrusion and it wont look as noticeable compared to the other layers printing at .1 (or .050) Just how I look at it.. I always level with thin paper I think mine is actually thinner than .010 and I always print .1 to .15 layer height rather than the norm of .2 so I have my first layer set to .2 with a faster print speed to prevent too much over extrusion. Sorry that was sorta extreme explanation..
  22. UMO.. yeaaaaaa thats why I didn't opt for that one! LOL
  23. Im not trying to act like a jerk, LePaul.. but if you read thru the whole thread.. I had already done nearly everything gr5 had offered up. Not to mention (which is already said in the thread as well) I have spent an excess of over 100hrs troubleshooting this issue which is enough to make any one brash with comments about doing something that has been tried 10 times already. Also my latest comments about what fixed my issues.. is only mildly related to any advice given in the topic thus far. This isn't my first printer.. the other was a cheap Chinese clone of a replicator printer which had me nearly drop kicking it across the room to figure out all the issues with it before it started running flawless prints with repeatable quality. So I had an idea of what to look for with -some- of the issues for the UM2.. but despite that part. My issues have all been around the bowden system (my other printer is direct drive) and a warped heatbed. I don't intend to be short with anyone offering advice (its how this hobby works isnt it?) but when you hear the same advice over and over and has nearly no bearing on the issue at hand.. it starts just sound like meaningless rambling of not paying attention to the steps that have been done already prior.
  24. Good to know.. but I am using.. v2 of this.. https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-olsson-block-fan-mount Though mine has started to melt on the bottom despite being wrapped in kapton tape.. looks like it might be a little close to the block though so maybe retaining too much heat? As soon as I finish this bulk print I will be printing a new shroud and mounting it much lower.. Any other thoughts?
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