DaHai8
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Posts posted by DaHai8
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On a side note, yet related to Cura 2.6.1....
I've been looking to buy a Pi and use OctoPi for remote printing. I see they still use 15.04 I'm sure this info is somewhere....but how would one get it to use the newest version of Cura? (If there's documentation on how this is done, please let me know!)
You can still use Cura to slice to gcode and then upload it to OctoPi and print from there.
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It should also cache them, so the second startup should be significantly faster.
Deleting the materials will have a pretty big impact on the speedup as well.
Caching does cut about a third of the time off for me: 28 sec 1st time, 19 secs 2nd time.
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Have the same issue and made the following workaround:
- setup an additional printer with single nozzle setup
- use a postprocessor migrated to 2.5 from DaHai8 to "select" the second nozzle when printing only with the second one.
For me it´s working quite well...
Thanks for the reference!
I've added a web page to my profile with the Cura Post-Processing Plugins I've written/converted to make it easier for people to find.
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Aside from the M205 X10 Y10 issue (which will only work with the most current version of Marlin firmware), I believe Cura is behaving properly:
This is setting the parameters before a Travel Move:
M204 S850
M205 X15
These are setting the parameters before Print Moves:
M204 S800
M205 X10
The above setting match your requests in Cura, it is just send these commands before each Travel or Print moves instead of what you are expecting with the M204 command. I believe Cura is adhering to the Lowest Common Denominator when generating gCode so that it can remain compatible with as many variations and versions of Firmware for 3D Printers as possible.
Also, the M503 only reports what is in the Firmware or EEPROM. Note that the above M204 and M205 do not alter EEPROM and Firmware is, well, firm...it cannot be changed without burning new firmware. So what is being currently used may not be what M503 reports.
If you want to have your Accel & Jerk settings set as the default, and EEPROM writing is enabled on your Firmware, you need to use the M500 command to save them in EEPROM and then DON'T change them during printing with the M204 and M205 commands (ie: disable Accel & Jerk settings in Cura)
Hope this helps.
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I found this a few weeks back. Not had a reason to use it, but kept it bookmarked 'just in case'. It may help you achieve what you need while Cura's is being improved:
http://hackaday.com/2014/06/04/plater-makes-it-easy-to-fill-your-bed-plate/
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I converted a Post-Processing Plugin by Stefan Heule from Cura 15 to Cura 2.x a little while back that does what you did by hand: Replace T0 with T1
You can find it here: http://bitman.org/dahai/SelectExtruder.zip
May not be the best way to do this, as there may be a way to set Cura up naturally to use the second extruder, but it does appear to work.
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Depending on how big the model's base is and the amount of filament leaked out during nozzle heat-up, it could take several skirts to get it flowing again. It's just something you gotta play with until you know how your printer operates and can intuitively guess how many skirts will be needed for a given print.
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It is marked as Experimental, so you may have uncovered a bug.
What printer and gcode flavors are you using?
What is your Initial Layer Height? If its .3mm, then perhaps the Tweek is not triggering because the layers would skip over 10mm exactly: 9.7mm / 9.9mm / 10.1mm / 10.3mm
Not sure, haven't looked at the code for that plugin.
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Not sure why Cura is automagically doing that for you, but try turning off Automatically drop models to the build plate in Preferences -> Configure Cura and see if you can then move the Z offset up enough to regain that lost 1mm.
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Sorry, should have been more specific as its not a common setting. In the right pane:
Experimental -> Enable Coasting
If you don't see it, then go to the Settings Menu -> Configure Settings Visibility -> Check All (click on it until a check mark appears in the box)
After you Enable Coasting, you'll see a few more settings you can tweak to fine tune it. Explanations of each setting pop-up when you hover over the input boxes.
Hope this helps.
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Did you try this link?
https://ultimaker.com/en/products/cura-software/list
Scroll down to the Linux section and click on Version 2.5. It downloaded an .AppImage for me.
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If the circle is perfectly symmetrical with no bumps sticking out and no holes sticking it it usually won't change directino from CW to CCW.
I think what is happening is that the outer shell is printer CW and the inner shell is printed CCW. So when the outer and inner shells are adjacent, you get a whip of filament as it changes direction.
Perhaps setting a Coast at End value would help.
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As I understand it, the measurements are taken from the nozzle and is the distance to the farthest point of the entire print head:
X min: measured in the negative x direction
Y min: measured in the negative Y direction
X max: measured in the positive X direction
Y max: measured in the positive Y direction
The Gantry height is the lowest point on the rails in which the extruder assembly rides to the print bed when the nozzle is at height Z=0
Hope this helps
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Cooling -> Minimum Layer Time / Minimum Speed
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Here are some possibilities:
1) Partial clog: Try a Cold/Atomic pull method to clean the hot-end
2) Incorrect Nozzle/Filament size set. Make sure nozzle size is correct for you printer and Line Width is the same, or slightly larger than nozzle size
3) Printing too fast: try a slower overall Print Speed
4) Slipping/Gummed up Extruder gear: check/clean the extruder gear and idler wheel of any gunk built up on it. Also try tightening the pressure knob. Of course, it could be too tight and the filament is not sliding past on the idler wheel.
5) Printing PETG too hot or its contaminated with moisture: Do you hear popping when you're printing? Do you see little explosions of vapor when it extrudes filament? Is the filament rough (not smooth) when you manually extruded a few centimeters? These are all signs of either printing too hot or having filament that's absorbed too much moisture. There are multiple Googleable sites on how to dry out PETG. Or try printing 5-10c cooler
6) Printing too cold (yes, could be that too): do your parts delaminate easily? If you are printing too cold, then the extruder has difficulty pushing the filament through and can under extrude (even if the sides look OK). And if the filament is too cold out of the nozzle, it will not laminate properly to the under layer.
7) Your hot-ends thermistor is going bad and not reporting the temperature correctly: This can cause an overheat or underheat and show the same results. Had this happen to be and had to replace the thermistor and recalibrate.
That's all I can think of at the moment!
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You'd probably get better results posting this on the Simplify3D forum instead of Cura...
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Sketchup is not ideal for making 3D Printable objects. It doesn't care if a design is a proper manifold or not, or if the walls have the minimum printable thickness (or any thickness at all), nor does it care if the insides face outward and vice-versa.
Still, I use it a lot.
That said, you probably have any one, or all, of the issues I listed. Download Solid Inspector from the Sketchup Warehouse and use it to check your model. Also ensure that all walls at at least as thick as your print nozzle (typically .4mm). You can look at your model in Cura in x-ray view and if you see any Red areas, those are problems with your model that may keep it from printing properly. Any useful tool is MakePrintable, not that in its effort to fix any issues it may make it worse (remove feature you wanted) - it is just guessing how the model is supposed to be after all.
Hope this helps.
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First thing I'd do is figure out where that Pause is coming from. Look through the gCode for any of the following commands:
M0 M25 M600
If you find one of those commands, then something in Cura is inserting them. Check the Post-Processing Plugins and ensure there are none active when you slice your cube.
If nothing found in the gCode, then there is something amiss with the printer itself. Check all the cables and connections - especially those between the screen and the mainboard. Ensure they are snug and have no tension on them.
Barring that, it may be something in the Firmware, or a bad/failing mainboard or power supply.
You might try posting this issue on the RepRap forum for I3 printers to see if anyone else has run into that problem: http://forums.reprap.org/list.php?406
Hope this helps.
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You uncovered a bug. Please report it at https://github.com/ultimaker/cura/issues
Issue #1921 created.
Thanks!
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I have a hunch that you can type numbers, right?
Silly me, didn't try that.
Yes, I can type numbers any time.
I can type letters in fields that already have letters.
But once its blank, only numbers and a decimal/comma are allowed.
So if I want to have a field that I can enter gCode into, what should I 'type' it to?
Thanks!
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In Post-Processing Plugins, if I use the 'str' data type for an input field, it appears to disable that field if there is nothing in it:
# "line1": { "label": "First Line", "description": "First Inserted Line", "type": "str", "default_value": "This", "enabled": true },If I set the default_value to "", then I can't type anything into that field in the PPP. If I leave it as 'This', I can type into the field. If I delete all the characters, then it locks the field and I can no longer type anything into it...except a period (.) and only a period - nothing else even after that.
Am I missing something?
Cura 2.5 windows 10
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It think what your are talking about is what Prusa has done with their Printer Profile for the Original I3 Mk2. They call it an 'Intro' line. I 'adopted' (with slight modifications) it for my A3 and it works very well for priming the nozzle without having to print a skirt. Perhaps it will work for you:
G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position G1 Y-3.0 F1000.0 ; go outside print area G1 X60.0 E9.0 F1000.0 ; intro line G1 X100.0 E21.5 F1000.0 ; intro line G92 E0.0 ; reset extruder distance position
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I don't know if Cura has that placeholder, but I think you can accomplish the same thing by switching to Relative Positioning:
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G91:_Set_to_Relative_Positioning
Then make the Relative Moves and then moving everything back to where it was (relative), then switching back to Absolute Positioning:
http://reprap.org/wiki/G-code#G90:_Set_to_Absolute_Positioning
P.S. Ugh, nevermind. I don't think that's what you're looking for ...
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2) Depends on what the other slicer does, it may be setting its own Acceleration and Jerk Values less that the defaults of Marlin. I know S3D does NOT do this, but not sure about Slic3r or others. But you are correct, if Accel and Jerk settings are disabled in Cura, Marlins values will be used.
printing with the 2nd extruder ONLY ??? in Cura 2.6
in UltiMaker Cura
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Print Head Size settings were covered in a older thread. You can find it there:
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/49872-printhead-settings?page=1&sort=#reply-182793
As for Regular Expressions, if you're not a programmer they can be very confusing...ok, even if you are a programmer, they are very confusing...
Regular Expressions allow you to write very complex Search and Replace commands that can account for a variety of possible matches, replacements, and search functions.
The Python RegEx page can be found here: https://docs.python.org/2/library/re.html
Good luck!