DaHai8
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Posts posted by DaHai8
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Should be under Material -> Enable Retraction
If you don't see it there, you may have to enable all option:
Preferences -> Configure Cura -> Settings -> Check All
Hope this helps.
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Could also be the jerk settings causing ringing
I appreciate the comment, but this is not what I was asking. I wanted to know why the Travel Acceleration seems to have no effect.
...uh, because it may be that Travel Acceleration is not causing the ringing, Jerk is...
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Could also be the jerk settings causing ringing
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Thanks :)I've fixed it now! I assumed that it would figure out boxes drawn on top of boxes, but maybe not. I went inside the model and deleted every internal face, and then deleted every line on the model that wasn't an edge line. It now shows up perfectly in Cura
Get the 'Solid Inspector' plugin from the Sketchup Warehouse. It's free and pretty good (not perfect) at checking your models for errors: reversed faces, Stray Edges, Surface Borders, Internal Faces, etc. Save's a lot of time.
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Have you tried increasing Jerk (while leaving Acceleration alone) and does that improve the corners?
That usually helps on my printers, but I don't know what type of printer you have.
Your belts might need re-tensioning as well to help reducing ringing.
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I'm bored and this sounds interesting.
It could be as simple as a bunch of options like:
. At Layer [ A ] do [ gcode ] At Layer [ B ] do [ gcode ] .....
Or, something smarter like: Turn on Fan if Layer uses less than N.nn mm of filament.
Or maybe that's not exactly what you're looking for.
@ManuelW , contact me via PM if you want to discuss further. I may be able to help.
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You're trying the Search and Replace post-processing plugin?
If so, why is that not working for you?
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I have that bug fixed and its posted on my site for anyone to pick up
I did uncover another bug that I haven't had time to fix: sometimes (usually on .2mm layer heights) it will not do any Wood Grain temperature mod on the last few layers, no will it save the Wood Grain Graph at the end of the gcode file.
I'll try to get those fixed soon, but I don't consider them critical at the moment.
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It's the +0.5 relative Z hop in the End Gcode of the printer profile that's confusing the script. It's written to only know about absolute moves.
I'm working on a fix and should have it posted soon.
Cheers
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Just to report feedback.
It worked!
Now only to resolve stringing and it will fly to the sky
Awesome!
Happy Flying!!!
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I was working with another user some months back with a similar issue on a purchased model with zero-thickness walls. He found the following allowed it to be sliced, but I did not hear if it actually printed correctly:
- Uncheck all options under "Mesh Fixes"
- Set Merged Meshes Overlap to zero (0)
Maybe that will work for you.
- Uncheck all options under "Mesh Fixes"
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Is the same Printer monitor/config tool available in 2.6 ?
Can't seem to find it apart from the "printer monitor" tab
Nope.
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P.S. Another option is to set your router to assign a static IP address for the Ultimaker based on its MAC address. Then you don't have to muck with the guts of your printer...
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If its really is Debian (jessie build), then static IP assignment might be as easy as:
nano /etc/dhcpcd.conf
Then add these lines to the bottom:
interface eth0static ip_address=192.168.1.3/24static routers=192.168.3.1.1static domain_name_servers=8.8.8.8 8.8.4.4
interface is what's connected to your network (eth0, wlan0, etc). Use:
ifconfig
To see which interface name has an IP address.
static ip_address is what you want to assign to your Ultimaker (you'll usually keep the /24 netmask)
static router is the IP address of your router.
static domain_name_servers is optional if your router doesn't provide them, or you want to use specific ones (these are Google's)
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I re-read your original post and am now confused. What I wrote below may not apply.
Where is the home position on your printer - as you are looking at the printer while standing in front of it? Is it on your left and close to you (the print bed is pushed all the way back), or somewhere else? If it's somewhere else, then what I wrote below probably doesn't apply. Let me know. Thanks.
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Ok. I think what you have then is a printer where the nozzle is not over the print bed when in its 'home' position. The home position is taken as [0x,0y,0z] in virtually all slicing software and is assumed to be at the left-front corner of the print bed (on non-delta printers).
Since 'home' on your printer is not over the print bed, everything gets shifted to the left (and possibly front) and can run off the edge.
There are two ways to fix this:
1) Re-flash you printer's firmware to reset Home to negative values for x & y so that 0,0 is on the print bed. Not for the faint of heart.
2) Modify the Start Gcode in your printer's profile in Cura to reset the position of x=0 and y=0. This is a lot easier, so I outline that here:
Go to Preferences -> Configure Cura -> Printers -> Machine Settings
Look for these lines in the Start Gcode box:
G28 X0 Y0 ;move to the X/Y origin (Home)G28 Z0 ;move to the Z origin (Home)G1 Z15.0 F1200 ;move Z to position 15.0 mm
You may not have that last line (G1 Z15.0 F1200). If not insert it after the G28 Z0.
Now add these lines after the G1 Z15.0 F1200 line:
G0 X25 Y30 ; Move print head to edge of print bedG92 X0 Y0 Z15 ; Set current location as new 0, 0
Change the X and Y values in the G0 command to the distance in Millimeters that will place your print head nozzle over the print bead in the left-front corner of the printable area of the bed. You can use a tape measure or calipers to estimate this value and fine tune it later.
That's it.
Let me know if you have any questions.
Hope this helps.
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The firmware on the print most likely has a lockout for the extruder below normal filament melting temperatures to prevent motor burnouts when trying to push/pull cold filament. Try pre-heating the extruder to around 180 before running its motor.
As for the Z-Axis, those controls may be reversed as on the A8, the bed stays vertically fixed while the head moves up/down, but on Ultimaker styles printers, the bed moves up/down while the head stays vertically fixed. So try moving it in the opposite direction to what you had tried before. Just be careful not to run it into the bed: perhaps move the head off the bed before trying to move it vertically.
Hope this helps.
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Bad layer bonding with PLA is usually caused by printing too cold. Try raising the Printing Temperature by 5c increments.
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Speed -> Infill Speed
Set this value to the same as Speed -> Outer Wall Speed
Infill Speed usually defaults to twice as fast as Outer Wall Speed, as a result you can get under-extrusions on infill if its printing too fast.
If that fixes your issues, you can try increasing the Infill Speed until you get a good balance of speed v. quality.
Hope this helps.
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Is this your printer? https://www.alibaba.com/product-detail/Desktop-3d-printer-prusa-i3-s508_60500481910.html
If so, you have a JG Aurora A3 clone (or maybe the A3 is a clone of that, who knows). Anyway, you're in the wrong group for hardware issues on a non-Ultimaker printers. So you may not get much response here.
If that above link is your printer, try the Aurora A3 Owners Group on Thingiverse for help.
If that's not your printer, try the RepRap Prusa I3 and Variants Forum
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That is odd. I set that for the Original Prusa I3 Mk2 and it worked as expected: It allowed me to set many small items next to each other and print one at a time without complaining.
What printer are you using?
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For both S3D and Cura, Print Speed refers to the Infill Speed. All other speeds are calculated from that, and at a lower value - if left up to the Slicer.
In Cura it is: Speed -> Print Speed
In S3D it is: Other tab - Speeds -> Default Print Speed
Hope this helps.
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Set your Print Head size to 1x1x1x1 and your Gantry height very high (like 180mm). Then you can place your objects really close together without Cura warning you.
Of course, you're on your own for ensuring the print head doesn't crash into an already printed object!
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Check out the X-Ray view in Cura for any Red areas. These indicate errors in the model that might cause that.
It looks like you part is not a closed manifold. If you created it in Sketchup, use the Solid Inspector tool from their Warehouse to check it.
You can also use an online tool like MakePrintable to check for and repair errors.
Hope this helps.
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self redacted...
Adding a custom printer .json to Cura
in UltiMaker Cura
Posted
First thing I see is two commas (,,) after "inherits": "fdmprinter.json",,
However, json files are very strict on format, structure and indentation, so there could be issues there that can't be detected in your copy/paste.
Use the code tags, > to place your json code in to retain the formatting, spacing and indentation. I will help a lot.
It'll also get rid of those emoticons...