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rlolley

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About rlolley

  • Birthday 12/10/1961

Personal Information

  • Field of Work
    (Product) design
    Engineering
  • Country
    US
  • 3D printer
    Ultimaker 2
  1. Did you get 123D catch to work?, I gave up as did everyone else I know that tried it. It's also cloud based which means no more spread eagle scans of the neighbors wife ( just kidding). I wish I could get it to work as I would like to scan my race car which is something you can't do with most scanners. Any tips would be great, - connection issue mainly
  2. I recently bought a used Xbox360 Kinect (with adapter) at Game Stop for $25 after testing the one that my grandkids have and it works ok (see my avatar), I also researched scanners and was leaning toward the Cubify Sense scanner since I already use some modeling software from 3D systems, but $400 dollars was just too much money for something that won't pick up small detailed objects. Then I read about using the Kinect sensor and how it was ok for people. I use it with "Skanect" to capture and "Meshmixer" to do final clean-ups (both free). You will need to download the SDK package from Microsoft (also free) in order to connect it to your computer. Sorry I don't have the links but the information is there if you search for "Kinect for 3D scanning", I think "Instructables" was one of the web sites that lists everything you need. I had better luck with "Skanect" than I did with "Reconstruct Me" I did however buy the "Pro" license for Skanect ($118.00 from Studica) because the free version will only export 5000 faces (which looks pretty bad). You can make it work with free version if you bring it into meshmixer and clean it up. Even if it looks really rough (triangulated), you won't notice it too much after it's printed. The Skanect Pro will export unlimited faces and only needs minor fixes such as fixing the top of the head that is usually flat after scanning. The Kinect works better for me if I leave it stationary and rotate the person or object. It's not perfect but it's not $400 dollars either. I would definitely try it before spending a lot of money on a scanner because the other dedicated scanners on the market still require manipulation after the scan. The only drawback I see with the Kinect is that it must be plugged in to 120v to use it and the cords aren't that long, but I'm sure it doesn't pull too much amperage so you could use a small inverter and a small 12V battery to make it more portable.
  3. Thanks, that's the info I was looking for. I couldn't find this information anywhere, at least now when someone does a search on this subject they will find the answer here. I knew I could count on you guys, once again the Ultimaker community has the answer. Thanks again, Robert
  4. rlolley

    Self Portrait

    Version 1.0

    1,195 downloads

    A self scan using an Xbox360 Kinect that I borrowed from the grandkids. Ultimaker Silver filament, .1 layer 195C temp 20mm/s speed .8 shell Scanned with Kinect 360 Printed on Ultimaker 2
  5. Just got my Faberdashery Glowbug Yellow filament, It has a rough texture and I was wondering if anyone can confirm that this is normal. Looks Like it would be hard on the Bowden tube. I searched the whole inter-web and couldn't find any good pictures or comments about the surface texture of this filament. I did see a few posts in here about printing with it, but nothing regarding this question. I turned my Xbox 360 Kinect into a scanner. I scanned and printed myself (that's me in my avatar), now everybody wants one too, so I'm looking forward to making them with "Glowbug" Thanks, Robert
  6. At least it would go all the way around the perimeter instead of stopping midway and going back the other direction on each layer, which leaves a trace on the outer shell.
  7. So I'm finding out as we speak, at least it worked once.
  8. I saw this post and I too was looking for a way to do this in Cura 15.04.3 but the option to change infill line width was not available. I decided to try the Beta 15.09.91 (windows 64) just to see what it was about, and to my surprise, there it was. I wanted to use the infill as a truss system and remove the top and bottom layers to create an open structure. I could do this in the model but it's much easier to let the infill do it for me. This won't be structurally accurate as I do not have control to put the truss exactly at critical stress points in the structure, but it will look cool I must say, I have only had my UM2 for 2 weeks but I can tell already that this 3d printing is going to consume my every available moment just as programming did back in the 1990's and you can bet that you will see me on the forum and the community quite often in the future. I have not tried yet but I should be able to orient the model on the build plate to create diagonal or linear infill. Let me see if I can load some pics. http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/rlolley/media/infill03_zpsej9ksuaw.jpg.html?sort=3&o=0 http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/rlolley/media/infill02_zps5xuohybu.jpg.html?sort=3&o=1 The beta does crash sometimes, but it's not a full crash, it gets to the "windows must close this program" but I just hit the red x and it goes away. Robert
  9. Thanks guys, that's the exact sound mine is making, almost like when you key a two way radio, I'm glad to hear that it is somewhat normal and shouldn't create damage to the machine. How long have you guys been using it that way? Hopefully a long time, as that would put me even more at ease. I can tell already that I made the right purchase, this type of user knowledge is great. I looked at 3d printers for 2 years before finally pulling the trigger. Beers are on me! Thanks, Robert
  10. Just got my new Ultimaker 2 and the test print of the robot after unboxing was very impressive. However it makes a loud grunt at every z layer step. I saw the post from iakovos (Dec. 2013 - "z axis noise at slow movement") and the video on his initial post is the exact noise that I am hearing. There was much conversation about z settings, main board jumpers etc. but the OP did not say if the issue was ever solved or if it was even an issue at all. Another member said that his did the same thing. Whatever it is, it definitely did not affect the print as it was very smooth. I just need to know if this is an issue or not before I start printing some of my designs and damage my wonderful new toy. Thanks in advance, Robert
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