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ffreak

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Everything posted by ffreak

  1. Hi, i'm back. Was very busy last days. Indeed, the room was very hot ... (heatwave). Next week I will figure out what went wrong taking all remarks in mind ... My supplier is willing to do the repair ... but I want to do it myself if possible. I'll share my solution when UM is fixed.
  2. We're talking about a UM2. Manually moving the buildplate up and down is no problem. Problem is: at some hight (different from print to print) the printing continues at the same hight. And most strange of all: the printing follows the model ... The plate doesn't lowers all of a sudden during the print. There is no clog initially but after some laps printing at the same hight a clog is growing at the nozzle.
  3. yo, tried 3 prints. At different hights buildplate stopped lowering. So print continued at same level (pic). After third try-out print got error message: x-axis stuck....
  4. Hello, today my buildplate doesn't lower anymore ... Tried to make 2 prints and each print: the buildplate got stuck at a different hight ... Yesterday everything was ok .... What could be wrong? thx
  5. Yo skinny-kid, thx for your reply. Posting the file is rather difficult because it concerns a commercial prototype. After posting this problem I've shut down the printer, restarted and problem seemed to be solved. Really don't know what happened ... but everything goes oké now. Only difference between first print yesterday and second print: the first print cura didn't positioned the print in the center of buildplate. Starting the second print cura perfectly positioned the print on buildplate. Anyway thx for your reply grtz
  6. Hello, Started a print this morning and my support isn't correct (in comparison to yesterday). See pic. What goes wrong? Can anybody help me please? thx[/media]
  7. thx JohnFox for the links
  8. Hello, should I use d-limonene 99.5% purity or is 95% purtiy enough to dissolve hips? Do I use the limonene pure? thx
  9. xbrain666, what about the first printlayer: slow printing? extra wide printing? or the same as the other layers?
  10. yo Nicolinux, thx for your reply. What filament are you printing with? I'm printing hips.
  11. I don'k know what to choose: Dimafix or Kapton tape to solve may heated bed adhesion problems ...
  12. Yo gr5, thx for your message. And yes, I have encountered your remark. My advice: remove the hips directly when printing is done: each time. Compared to cleaning a nozzle, it's no effort loading the filament before printing . The first testprints with hips were a dissaster: nozzle clogged each time. By removing the hips after each print I have no problems anymore. Furthermore, when removed the hips spool, I put the spool in a box with moisture absorber ...
  13. hello stu_le_brew: indeed. As my UM was brandnew I was almost afraid of touching it.Changing Olsson was allready a challenge, replacing the sensor and later on the heater were very scary situations to me. The new heater is indeed a great improvement.
  14. Inderdaad, ook mijn leverancier heeft me een 35W element toegestuurd: geen enkel probleem meer. Maat toch een tekortkoming van Ultimaker vind ik dat men dit niet zo kenbaar maakt.
  15. ok fijn om te horen ben nu met pet bezig en mijn feeder slaat over ik krijg niks goed er uit ik denk dat ik maar eens met de mensen van de winkel er over ga hebben Heel veel ervaring heb ik nog niet. Maar toen ik overschakelde van PLA naar HIPS heb ik mijn feeder moeten afstellen. Het wiel greep zich steeds vast in het zachtere HIPS. Nu heb ik geen problemen meer hiermee. Als je werkt met een UM2= naast de Bowden tube zit bovenaan de feeder een vijsje ingewerkt. Hoe meer je naar links schoeft hoe groter je eigenlijk de doorstroommogelijkheid maakt, hoe minder hard de feeder op h
  16. ok fijn om te horen ben nu met pet bezig en mijn feeder slaat over ik krijg niks goed er uit ik denk dat ik maar eens met de mensen van de winkel er over ga hebben Heel veel ervaring heb ik nog niet. Maar toen ik overschakelde van PLA naar HIPS heb ik mijn feeder moeten afstellen. Het wiel greep zich steeds vast in het zachtere HIPS.Nu heb ik geen problemen meer hiermee. Als je werkt met een UM2= naast de Bowden tube zit bovenaan de feeder een vijsje ingewerkt. Hoe meer je naar links schoeft hoe groter je eigenlijk de doorstroommogelijkheid maakt, hoe minder hard de feeder op het fi
  17. Yo everybody who replied to my topic. Thx a lot for the support you all gave me. Today: the 35W heater is installed properly and now I can print without any problems. Without your support I couldn't have it fixed. THX A LOT! Now the search may begin for the correct printparameters for my HIPS ... Another challenge ...
  18. yo Shireen1981 thx voor je reply Mijn probleem lag in het feit dat de nozzle niet voldoende opgewarmd werd. Ik kon niet eens een print starten, gelijk op welke snelheid. Feit is: met de 35W heater is vandaag het probleem opgelost. Nu nog de juiste instellingen vinden voor HIPS...
  19. yo Marmut, Probleem zou ondertussen sedert giisteren moeten opgelost zijn. Ik wist niet waar ik de draadjes moest bevestigen. Ondertussen is duidelijk geworden: oude draadjes verwijderen en de nieuwe er in plaatsen.... Tja, ik ben nu eenmaal niet zo technisch aangelegd.
  20. Thx Labern, I think your tip (as all the tips I've received) will help me a lot with my installation. Today I don't want to look to my UM: too much frustrated. Tomorrow is another day ...
  21. thx for your support. It means a lot to me. But I aborted the replacement for today. I really don't know how to change the wires: do I only pull out the old ones out of the wireterminal? or do I have to remove the wireterminal from the plate? And if so: in which direction do I have to remove the wireterminal? Do I have to unscrew the old wires???????? where are the srews on the wireterminal? How do I insert the new wires? I don't see any little screws to tighten the new wires onto the terminal ... I don't know it anymore and I'm afraid to molest my machine .... I left my UM totally dism
  22. thx, done Can I ask you something? As I know nothing or very less about wires: It doesn't matter which wire I connect in which hole?
  23. yep Bob-hepple, Nervous as I am: I removed the cover from the board. I see the 'connection' for my heater: heater 1 https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B5Cw6Ud9eoUlZ21fQlUzVkxLVmc/view?usp=sharing. Do I have to remove the 4 screws also to set de board apart? Because I cannot really see how to attach the new heaterwires to the board ...
  24. hoi Marrut, ik heb ondertussen de 35W mogen ontvangen. Weet je nog welke zekering aan het verwarmingselement gekoppeld is? heater 2 of heater 1
  25. that's my biggest concern: I don't really know yet which wires I have to remove on my board. Maybe tomorrow everything will become more clear when visiting the board. When I replaced the sensor, this sensor had a 'plug system' to attack to the board. The heater only has two strips ... And knowing that the new UM2+ has Olsson included with 35W heater ... my UM2 is only 4 weeks old ...
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