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Torgeir

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Posts posted by Torgeir

    Pretty sure I killed a UM2 board stepper driver. Any solutions?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi rshuck,

    Welcome to this forum. Sorry to hear this, but the high rotating resistance when the X stepper is plugged to the main board indicate a shorted stepper driver circuit.

    It is possible to change this circuit, but it has to be done by experts with proper tools etc. Buying from China is a risk and also takes some time.

    Maybe you can ask fbrc8 if they can advice a repair center for the main board? There should be lots of repair centers in US with this kind of capability, also the complete wiring for the board is open source and available for this use.

    Good luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    [Solved: Bad knurled sleeve] Under extrusion help

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Hi rhino_aus,

    I have to say I'd been looking at this interesting post a few times.

    And you're absolutely right in your assumptions, -but as owen said; this is kind of normal for an Ultimaker.  Well, all kind of bowden printers suffer more or less of this problem, this is one thing I've tried to address many times in this forum.

    When we increase the flow we might increase the feeder speed or/and the nozzle temperature. So for the feeder, more speed and higher pressure on the bowden tube, right? Lets analyze a little here; "the pressure from the filament running through the bowden tube is trying to push the tube upward". So when the filament is pressed/forced to follow the upper part of the inside of the bowden tube, this will act as an old drum brake and create a "drag force" due to the friction. The higher the feeder speed is, the higher the bowden pressure will be as well as the drag forces. This can be increased until the feeder wheel start grinding into the filament -or one of the bowden lock popp out.

    The rest of the story we all remember..

    However, there is one worse thing to note in here; this is that the track line, made by the knurled or the hubbed wheel on the filament is most of the time on the upper side of the loop inside the bowden tube. This factor actually increase the friction factor and make the bowden pressure (the filament feeding) varying all over the building platform as the extruder changes position. (When this occur the (EDIT) filament turn back and forth inside the bowden tube making the friction factor changes).

    Soo...

    There is ways to avoid this and one of the best I've seen so far is:

    https://ultimaker.com/en/community/35608-zero-gravity-direct-drive-extruder

    This is an extraordinary way of doing smart things and you have no pressure difference here due to movement around the building platform.

    I havent go that far at the moment, but I did changed the trackline to go on the underside of the filament inside the bowden tube (mostly) during printing.

    Hope this help.

    Good luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    • Like 1

    Is this an under extrusion issue?

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    Hi obus3d,

    Sorry to hear about this, but this is one of the things can happen..

    There is two end stop switches, located L/H inner corner. The one on the left side panel is the Y axis stop and the one fixed to the top panel is the X axis stop.

    I'll assume it go either to the left or to the bottom, say half way home?

    In other word if on of the switches is activated, the "little computer" think this axis is already home, so no movement needed here..

    As the switches make contacts when operated (pressed in), there must be a short of one of the two switches (making contact all the time). This could be the switch itself or simply a short between the feeding wires for the switch.

    People have found wires clamped between the stepper motor and the attachment walls that's caused failure like this.

    In order to do a first easy check, try to activate the switches by pressing on the actuator arm. This is best done by moving the extruder head from right side to the left side until you hear a click (X-axis). Same with the Y-axis, from mid position and into the printer until you hear this click.

    A faulty micro switch may not click, so do not use force here, just observe when the shaft hit the Y switch actuator arm or when the inner sliding block hit the X switch actuator arm.

    If this test go OK., there is a good possibility that the switch is in good condition (but not always like this).

    Next is to check the wires from both micros witches is in good condition and not clamped some places on the way to the main board.

    The last thing is to measure the two switches from the connector that's connect them to the main board(yes the connector is to be removed (pulled out) before measuring).

    Wish you good luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    PVA broke off in print core...

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi RayvenMaker,

    Why not try your first method?? This is not high class electronics, just a wire wound heat element and a PT100 temp sensor, well plus a contact.

    All of this can stand 60 deg. C. water, no problem.. But after this bath, -put it in to a "hot air" oven with about (50-60) deg. Celsius for an hour or so. Next is to heat it up some in the normal way. This is the method that's less risky and do not ruin your day!

    Sure, I'm assuming there's no active electronics in this unit.

    Well, as neotko "said", -crazy ideas might not be as bad as most people think -it's only a little different way of thinking. :)

    Oh yes, been working most of my life with electronics so this should be an easy one.

    OK., good luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    • Like 1

    UM2 Feeder Skipping BIG TIME

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Hi Avery,

    Make sure your initial layer is set to 0.1, you can even set it 0.08.. This will reduce the first layer pressure and may help.

    Still using my printer with the original feeder unit, but using a belt reduction gear (1:2) and a "200 step" (1.8 deg) stepper motor. I've also mirrored the feeder unit.

    I've never had any feeding issue with this setup.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    Edit: You can also try to increase the feeder current, should be about 1250 mA.

    Error Shows broken Switch but it's not

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi ShailenP,

    What you confirm here, tell me that it is the relay K1 that is broken! You did not confirm that the heat bed or the nozzle heater is working. So conclusion is that there is no 24 VDC for the steppers or the heaters to work with.

    And yes, the motherboard is the same for the UM2 / UM2 extended version.

    PS. In the beginning of my 3D printing, I got a problem with this relay. I.E. when turning off the 3D printer -the off switch did not work, the printer was not possible to turn off. The problem was a hanged up K1 relay. As I tapped (with the hand hold part off a screwdriver, small one) lightly on the relay the printer turned off..  It can work the other way as well, not turning on when master switch is operated. However, the master switch alone also feed the 5VDC to the processor and logic control, so your PT100 temperature sensors will work in this case.

    Good luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    Error Shows broken Switch but it's not

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi.

    None of the steppers is moving..

    Aha. That's something, -but the heater(nozzle?) and the sensor (temperature PT100?) is working, right?? Then there must be 24 VDC present? This 24 VDC is controlled by the only relay on this board, K1. So If one of the safety jumpers is missing (J16 or J17), the relay would not operate and do not deliver power to; Bed, Heater 1, Heater 2, All Stepper Motors and the connector for fan to cool this PCB (J20).

    Good Luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    Rough Texture on Lower Rounded-Edges

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Hi Folks,

    Had the same thing happen when I printed the Benchy boat with my UM2 ..

    Only thing that's removed all of this was to turn off the heat bed and using glue. Try this and you'll have a premium print!

    It's the heat from both, -the bed and the nozzle. This often occur when printing detailed objects with overhang close to the bed bottom.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    Leaking Nozzle

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi rssorensen,

    I'll think it is the flat flange inside the "Olsson" block that's skewed, might be the Chinese block(?). Same thing for the nozzle, the flat part going into the "Olsson" block need to be right.

    Imagine a vertical line passing through the assembled unit (from the middle of the front filament and through the mouthpiece), the two flat flanges should be angled 90 degrees with this vertical line.

    This two flanges is the actual sealing between the nozzle and the heat block.

    Maybe the first nozzle had a skewed flat (?) -then the problem started.

    Good luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    Can I use 3 in 1 oil for lubricating the axis?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi neotko,

    a) They should do it when they install new bearings on the printer, -unless they have special order with (previous) pre lubricated (with proper spindle oil) bearings with some limited time to keep in store before installed. This is a standard practice that I'll think everyone dealing with such thing know about.

    b)

    No, No, this is the oil that the bearing is inhibited in, an oil to protect against corrosion during storage. I'm just talking about a brand new bearing that you like to install on your printer if is fails. Such a new bearing need to be cleaned then lubricated with the recommended type of oil. And Yes, this is the same brand of oil as used on the upper bearing. (Roller bearing need to roll in real oil, it is the oil film that's protect against wear and tear. Grease cant be used in this small ball bearing types.)

    However, if your bearing is old -but not worn out and you like to put some new oil into it, this mention cleaning/drying method and re oiling is the one to be used as well.

    I'll do hope this clear out things.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    Can I use 3 in 1 oil for lubricating the axis?

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi neotko,

    Think petersm is right, the two large Z-shafts connected to the bed platform are using two "double sliding bearing" in each with 4 lines of roller bearing separated 90 deg.

    This kind of bearing is of same type as used inside the "extruder" sliding along the two 6 mm shafts (X and Y). So there will be used oil for lubrication in here.

    For the Z-screw jack on the stepper motor, green grease only.

    I'll think I saw something about it as well, but can't remember where, anyway – those kind of bearing must have "spindle" oil.

    As I've such a bearing in "stock" :), -here's a picture to see.

    Z_Shaft_Sliding_Bearing_UM2___.thumb.jpg.a522fc93cb2064686a4ae65fe6c18e75.jpg

    Worth to mention, this is a brand new bearing out of a sealed bag..  The oil used for storing is a conservation oil and do not work very well with this oil.

    So you'll need to clean out this conservation oil by using White Spirit, move the bearing when dipped into so that the "agent" flow through the bearing in order to dissolve this conservation oil.  

    When done, dry the bearing using an air gun with a moderate flow so you do not risk blowing away bearing parts..

    After dried, enrich the bearing cambers with "spindle" oil. Due to the capillar effect, the right amount of oil will remain inside.

    But just do this just before you're installing a new bearing. This procedure is valid for all type of bearing of this type, unless otherwise is noted.

    Hope this clear out.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    Z_Shaft_Sliding_Bearing_UM2___.thumb.jpg.a522fc93cb2064686a4ae65fe6c18e75.jpg

    Ultimaker 2+ Extended

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted · Edited by Guest

    Hi Folks,

    May by I can help a little here..

    This fan is connected to J14 on the main board right?

    And we're talking about the two cooling fans (each 12 VDC) connected in serial?

    Those fans are connected to a transistor (T1) BC817 and can handle absolute max current of 500 mA (milli Ampere). However, we've to stay below 200 mA here to be safe, as this transistor has no heat sink installed. This transistor is controlled by a PWM (pulse with modulated) signal from the main board.

    Ref. Main Board V.2.1.1

    Good luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    Edit: Forgot to mention the specs. on my fans, they are: 12 VDC and draw max 150 mA.

    Thx.

    PVA not sticking on glass

    in Materials & profiles

    Posted

    Hi Markus,

    When looking at this first layer of PVA (the second extruder) it seems to be to high above the bed. I.E. it is not squeezed to the bed, I'd assume it should look a little "flatten out" looking. The skirt (PVA) looks to be "kind" of good, -so could it be something about height "now and then" different when switching head to number two?

    Anyway, good luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    UM2+ fan shroud vs Labern's fan shroud?

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Hi krys,

    Happy new year. :)

    Well, I never did a flow test like you did, neither the high temp 300 deg. C!

    I do have a little bulging in the front of the shroud, assuming this is due to the very close heat block. I'm only using absorbent of "glass fiber" as insulation, that's work well at all the other places but not in the front. Maybe I should try with the Kapton tape you're using.. Did you use infill when printed Labern's shroud?

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    Print Head Cover won't close

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi Folks,

    Very interesting. I would remove both cores and investigate closely inside with a good flash light. If you just hold the cover lightly toward the position where it stop, you might be able to see the problem here. Also, as there is a fan inside the cover, -is this one installed right? Study the hinges to see there is no "sudden stop/hard stop" that's preventing a free swing in.

    Maybe the taped cover is just used as a transport protection.

    Well, just my 5 p.

    Good luck.

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    UM2+ fan shroud vs Labern's fan shroud?

    in Third party products & modifications

    Posted

    Hi krys,

    I would say, Laberns shroud is very much better. So how; it has a better "fluid dynamic" design hence delivering more flow, also the "pressure center" is "right" in the middle of the nozzle and here the flow go downward. As it is printed with a 3D printer, the layer lines improve the air flow.. The weight is only 9.5 gram (no infill), the very old shroud weight is 24.1 gram and the "new +" shroud is about 16 gram.

    The very good thing about Laberns shroud is that how much better printing overhang is improved. And finally, it does not make vibrating noise due to high energy short stepping.

    IMHO. Anything that is reducing the extruder assembly weight is well invested. Next may be to "gun drill" the two 6 mm shafts that is part of the "extruder assy" weight.

    Oh. yes I've been using Laberns shroud for about half a year now.

    So I'll say, again; Thank you Labern, well done!

    Here's two test pictures (SLA) showing overhang (macro picture), printed with 70 micron 183 deg. C. 60 deg. C heat bed. The first one with top and bottom layer and the second one without top an bottom layer. Just wall and infill.

    With, ofc. Olsson block and Laberns shroud.

    You'll find info about model and more here:

    http://archive.fabacademy.org/2016/greenfablab/students/13/Week5.html

    And the pictures:

    Here's the "normal" print.

    SLA_test_object_1.thumb.jpg.c07bd1881efeed76f109207b3b0a6d12.jpg

    And here's the print without top and bottom layers.

    SLA_test_object_2.thumb.jpg.ae7d113a7b3955fac6e990d4dd3ed233.jpg

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

    SLA_test_object_1.thumb.jpg.c07bd1881efeed76f109207b3b0a6d12.jpg

    SLA_test_object_2.thumb.jpg.ae7d113a7b3955fac6e990d4dd3ed233.jpg

    Grinding when starting a print

    in UltiMaker 3D printers

    Posted

    Hi Folks,

    I've looked at this in a few days. Could this be a too large Y setting (normally should be 223) in Cura defining the size of the bed? Assuming a to large defined bed, so when the printer go to the fwd start point it will try to go this extra step and hit the hard stop a number of times?

    This may explain why it can continue printing and print an object Ok. ?

    Just a thought..

    Thanks.

    Torgeir.

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