Torgeir

Hi @Blasty First, welcome in here. This is a new one for me, -but sure possible.. I'll guess that the clip the nozzle hit, was the forward left one, as this is the place the nozzle are to put the filament bleeding when clearing for proper feed. Next, the head move down and moving a little aft before setting course to start making the skirt or brim. But when the head moving down, it's just collide with this left forward clip, right? This is what I'll think happen.. If this is right, I'll think the Y limit switch might be moved to much forward by some reason. In this case, the stop offset switch for the Y axe are moved to much forward and make the nozzle to move too much and overrun the max limit on the build plate. When looking on the object to be printed on the heat bed in Cura, you can see the valid print area clearly visible and the area where the clip are located are shaded black. If you try to move your object into here your object will change color with stripes to indicate; at this place the object will cannot be printed. This will work if the above adjustment are right.. The old versions of Cura (4.13.1 and older) will show this dark shadow over the clip when the build plate are empty, while the later Arachne version of Cura (after version 5.0 I'll think) only show this when an object are present on the heat bed. For the UM2E/E+ the X & Y are set to 225 and Z 305.. Well, lets see how this go. Good luck Torgeir

Hi @tims007, Here are the dimension of those bearings. LM10UU dim: 10 x 19 x 29 mm. LM8UU dim: Bore Diamter (dr): 8mm, Outer Diameter (D): 15mm, Total Length (L): 24mm. Using my phone. Torgeir.

Hi @madmax21 When you open the front door in order to change a nozzle, you'll see the two wires red and white connected to the captive sensor board. The White colored wire is per definition the ground, -however, when measuring a capacitor we're always using alternating current (A/C). There might be a tiny breakage in any of the two wires, but such a small opening can still be good enough for the system to not detect any error.. (We've seen that those two wires may break after some time of use, some break close to the connector and some inside the insulation.) The connector J7 on the PCB inside the head are used for the captive Sensor board, pin 1 are the red wire and pin 2 are the withe wire. This Withe wire are connected to the shielded metal frame using the two clip holding down the "captive sensor board". Disconnect P7 from J7 (mounted on PCB) Use a multi meter set to ohms (beep mode also known as diode mode). Measure between pin 1 on P7 and the pin marked sensor on the sensor board, here you must measure continuity. Move the test stick from sensor to shield (Still holding the other test stick at pin 1 of P7), here there should be no connection or open circuit as we also use to say. Then make the same measurement between pin 2 on P7 and the shield pin on the sensor board - here for continuity. Last for continuity between the shield and the metal frame (this is the point that is earthed only via shield, hence floating earth) I cannot se any reason for the new CC to blame, except for that fact those new CC cores are just upgraded to 30 W heater but this should normally not be any problem for a S5. Also been thinking about trying a factory reset, sometime this work and sometimes not. Maybe you've done this already? Torgeir

Hi @madmax21, Just been thinking about your noise problem at between (30-60), -as this is way to high there must be a reason for this high levels. This as you tried to disconnect the front fan with no reduction in noise. Just come to think that, -if the ground wire become open there will be lot's of noise present, this as the hot end for the capacitor will acts more like an antenna for any kind of noise/signal present close here. Another question are, could the wires + and - become swapped?? I'll ask this because the ground lips holding down the captive sensor board are not grounded, -but this point is a floating ground.. So, much more noise also here.. Have you observed that the wires to the front fan are twisted some? This twisting are used to reduce noise from the high freq power supply inside the fan, that's often spread noise via the power feeding wires. This is an old tech to reduce magnetic interference (EMI). To further put the question about this noise, could it be something else? As a faulty filter in the main power supply? In case someone have noted that there are five connecting pins(fingers) to the heat cores, you're right and this fifth wire is used for the heat core S/N and time used (primary). I cant see any reason to change the main PCB.. 🙂 Torgeir

Hi @madmax21 Strange this, as only connectors involved here are the "main" connector (P3) to the head and the two (four contact) finger connectors behind the cores to connect to the PCB's gold plated contact points (four for each core). Two of those contacts are for the temp sensing and the other two for the heater. As the temperature are in lo state the input might be shorted for the actual core, either by an offset finger (shorting the two contact point for temp sensing) or by a faulty PCB. Torgeir

Hi @madmax21, As you've never reported this error before: Here's the description of it. ER29 - Print core min temp Feb 14, 2023•Knowledge This error occurs when one of the print cores is reading a temperature that is too low. The display will show with which print core a problem has been detected. First, check if the error is caused by environmental conditions. Always use the printer in an environment within the recommended ambient operating temperatures (15 - 32 °C). Make sure the room is at least 15 °C (59 °F) and the printer is unaffected by cold drafts before powering on the printer. If the error is not caused by a too-cold environment, there could be a connection or communication problem with the print core. If the communication is interrupted, the printer can show a 'min temp' (ER29) or a 'max temp' (ER28) error. As the max temp error is more likely to appear, please follow the instructions on the page below: This above is found here: https://support.ultimaker.com/s/article/1667338550675 ----------------------------------------------------------- I'll suggest there might be just a loose connection for the temp sensor connector to the new PCB. Here are a link to fbcr8-Erin showing the installation of this PCB into the head: https://support.fbrc8.com/hc/en-us/articles/25226377434011-Printhead So, good luck Torgeir

Hi @jlveau, Welcome in here. I'd just translated the error MSG from French to English. "The height difference between the two print cores exceeds an acceptable value". Here's a link in here to this very known problem.. Have a look and see if this can help you. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @fbrc8-erin, Thanks Erin, well noted. Torgeir

Hi @stejan This looks like a surface not flat, if you move the object right or left, sort of out of present area -how does it looks like then? I'll think there's lots of people with Creality 3D printers in here.. Good luck. Torgeir

Hi @BarraVox, Great improvement. Sure there is, @GregValiant have made a plugin that can adjust the fan at the line level you want. I'm not sure if this plugin work with the newest Cura versions, but he'll answer. Just checked and sure it works with all of the latest.. (OFC 😉) You find it at the "Marked Place in Cura", named: "Advanced Cooling Fan Control". Torgeir

Just sliced the plaque with Cura 14.3.1, the last stable old version of Cura that's look ok. Sure I'll know that different object are sliced different over all the different slicers, but this one is some strange. Maybe someone else fill in here. CE3E3V2_Test.gcode Torgeir.

Just looked at the plaque in S3D and sure the problem are the shadowing visible in layer 20. If you change the the color scheme from "line" to "layer thickness" it's more easy to see this shadowing in the gcode file, using Cura. So then I'll see that your solution make sense as there in no under laying "disturbing" layer present..

Sorry man. Actually, the first thing I noticed on your model was the undercut of the "logo" started inside the infill. In layer 20 you'll also see the "shadow" of the logo with the text. There are just one layer to cover the outer surface. Then my question, do you have the original cad drawing of this object? I'll think this shadow layer disturb Cura/printer in some way visible in the print? As have not printed this plaque, I've no idea of how it looks like. I'll have a look at the gcode file in S3D.

Aha., Ok. Just to come to think about the setting "Horizontal Expansion", can be found under "Walls". Press "search" and use "Horizontal Expansion" then select "Walls", default value here are "0". By adjusting this value slightly under "0", -say -0.1 and see if the text become better (not leaving openings). This is a way to adjust the width of the letters that might help.. Note: Using Cura 5.71

Hi @Deses, Ok, there are lots of way to do this for sure. Using "Ironing" may need some fine tuning, I've learned in here - this are the balancing between speed and flow and both have to be with quite a lo settings. Only way to solve this are try to fine tune the setting for your printer, maybe someone have a profile for your printer printing nice using Ironing? Hmm., maybe @GregValiant have some good advice with this?

Hi @Deses, We would normally select the highest height Z resolution as possible, with your printer 0.12 mm, then your model will be 38 layer height. This will give 5 layers for the symbol and the letters to be extruded. You'll need to lower the speed to default top layer speed 25 mm/s (or maybe less!). To make a smooth surface (top), select "Enable Ironing" under "Top/Bottom" in Cura, but remember to deselect the "Iron Only Higher Layer" box setting. This way both the plaque surface and the text plus symbol are ironed. In order to save filament and time, we're using to sink the model into the bed in order to print only the interesting layers. Just use a negative value for Z height. But a smaller model with same text symbol type go much faster for sure. Just some small tip. Good Luck Torgeir

Hi @Timini, Interesting to see a practical device 3d designed and ready to be printed. 🙂 As PLA may/will be very brittle in short time, -you may consider a stronger material as PETG or even Nylon. Cura 5.6 had some issues, a much better version are the last version -Cura 5.71.. Good Luck. Torgeir

Hi @BradleyF, Welcome in here. This one?: https://github.com/foehnsturm/Mark2 Torgeir

Hi there When we talk about this matter, it can be tempting to mention the "competition" among manufacturers of 3d printers as to who has the printer that prints the fastest with good quality. So, how fast can a 3d printer with 1.75 mm filament print? Here, of course, the selected nozzle size plays a role, as you can actually print much faster with a larger nozzle and still have good quality and accuracy on the model. With this in mind, I'm not so sure that 1.75mm size filament will displace 2.85mm type filament, -but rather the opposite may happen (IMHO). But time will tell. An UltiMaker printer can print at a "fairly" high speed with a 0.6 mm or 0.8 mm nozzle. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi @BarraVox, to be honest, I cant see that any support starting mid air. I'll see you're using tree support "everywhere", and as far as I'll see -this all is good.. However, we do not know what printer you're using, -but you're using Cura 5.71 Here's the overview picture of your gcode file. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @LePaul, Just saw your posting and the link to github. According to the temperature "map" during heating up the bed and the nozzle -it appear to be a power dump just when the printing started. This is "kind of known", when the power supply deliver close to max output. May happen, when we're starting printing using high power over an extended period (warm up to high temp) -and when all the steppers motors suddenly are starting. A general advice here will be to make sure the main PCB have forced (fan) cooling and that the power supply also are at some cooled location.. My best assumption at this stage. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @canaksaya, Sorry, -but been away for sometime. You just been well advised by @gr5, so I'll think you'll find about everything in this thread. (As I'll know you have an UM2E+, there is just another small thing only for the "Extended" version. Just remember to change the definition of max Z height from 225 mm to 305 mm.) Good luck. Torgeir

Hi there, I'll think both, Cura (5.70 & 5.71) have this new setting for use of "Skirt"; "Skirt Height" default 3 lines. Just change this "Skirt Height" from 3 to 1 and it will be as before.. Thanks Torgeir.

Hi @canaksaya, The no 2 extruder port "has" to be activated as the "primary port" in the firmware. The "firmware" is the program that's control the microprocessor on UM2's main PCB. Modifying the firmware might be the bets way to go, I'll think. Some third party "firmware's" may be used as well.. Someone else might chime in here. 🙂 In the meantime, I'll dig a little into this matter. Thanks Torgeir

Hi @Faf666, Yes, the display have this glass included, anyway here's their web site: https://www.dlcdisplay.com/ You just send a msg in this website. Thanks