nerdwarrior

I'm sorry for not realizing this earlier, but it seems that the firmware builder has changed a bit from one or two months ago (when I last looked at it). Has the led option been removed?

So I could potentially have dual print cooling fans running on the fan pwm, a heatbreak fan running on the 5V supply, and my feeder fan running on the bottom connector or the led pwm?

Wow that was faaaaaaaaaaast and thorough! THANK YOU! So I just pulled up my board, and I see what you're talking about with the 5V fan. I'm assuming that 5V is enough for the hotend fan? Also, I'm kind of lost here, so what your saying is that I can either use the fan port at the bottom of the board or use the led pwm as a fan output?

Hello everyone, On the UMO+'s board (the same as the UM2+ series), there seems to be two fan ports, a pwm one and a serial one (was it serial? I forgot. It's on the bottom of the board). Both seem to be rated for 24 V. Does this mean that I can connect two 12V fans to each one? I'm asking this because I would like to install dual print cooling fans, one for the heat break of a possible future E3D V6, and one to cool my feeder motor (I've had problems of the motor's heat softening/deforming the PLA in the feeder). Sincerely, nerdwarrior

Thanks so much guys! My printer finally prints! The bottom layers were still a bit thin, but it turned out fine once it reached around the fifth layer. It didn't do too well between the legs (marvin), but I have nothing to complain about since it couldn't even print before! Thank you Labern for bearing with me all the way thru this! I tightened the feeder spring and held down the camp with some rubber bands, and now the feeder is working properly! And thank you neotko for the instructions! It still leaks a bit, but it's barely anything!

Wow thanks! I tighten the feeder, then work on fixing the leak. Thanks for the video! It really helps! I'll post an update once I'm thru fixing it.

oooooooo right hotend srry:

looks like the left one, sometimes a bit more roughed up. the leak:

yeah the flilament goes thru. Except it's kinda hard in the beginning, because all of the plastic comes out from the top of the heater block. Once thru, it comes out just fine.

O man I tried an atomic pull, and it started leaking like crazy and all the leaked pla smoked like never before.

In some places the filament has regular dashes on it, and in others, it is just simply ground out and feels flaky.

Sorry, this pic isn't very clear, but u can kinda see the bit marks and grounded parts. However, from what I can see, there doesn't seem to be a lot of plastic flakes in the feeder.

I'm using the silver pla that came with the machine. I don't know about faulty sensors, because mine is brand new. I'll send filament pics once I'm done removing filament. In the process now.

oooh and it seems like my filament is stretched out (in the bowden tube). Do you think it will help if I reassemble the feeder, remove the filament with an atomic pull, then snap off all the stretched out parts? I can't really tell, because I've only had my printer (assembled) for a few days, and my experience is near zero.

Oh, okay. I'll get rid of the oil. Can I put it in the bowden? I'm printing at 230 and 50 mm/s (I don't remember exactly, but that's about it) The 230 because I thought it would flow better. 50 to match it. I don't know if it's the hotend. The odd thing about it is that every time I manually extrude, I get 2 puffs of smoke each accompanied by a sizzling sound before any plastic comes out. And thank you so much Labern for replying!

I just looked at the nozzle It seems to be clear

Like I got one amazing/perfect print, but it stopped extruding halfway thru: (sorry about the horrible quality. My SD card slot is broken so I'm stuck with my computer camera) Now, it seems like the filament is going up the tube (it seems like it, but i could be wrong). When I turn it by hand, I can usually get nice, beautiful, even strings, but they never show up in my prints!

Hello Labern, Sorry, I didn't see your reply before I sent that comment just now I'll try an atomic pull, but I've noticed that the leaking has stopped. I think it's just that the filament doesn't extrude. It keeps grinding the filament, and when it doesn't, it still doesn't come out smoothly. I thought that maybe it was too far away from the bed, but I ended up going so close the nozzle scratched the glass. I've put some oil on the feeder, and stuck a small kleenex wet with oil onto the bottom so the filament going into the feeder gets lubricated. It just seems so unpredictable! How should I fix the feeder?

I'm not too far away from the bed that I know for sure cuz i've already scratched it on my third day of using it

Tried printing at 230 degrees at 120% flow turned out great for the bottom layers, my dream come true then everything stopped extruding and i found it printing in midair no, not printing. just moving

I've tested a few marvins with different settings, with one success and one successful to about the waist. It seems like it's a problem with the feeder. While printing, I see it rotating continuously, but filament isn't coming out. Tips?

Okay, the brim failed. I've tried temps from 190-215, heated bed from 55-60, and I've adjusted the bed height multiple times. Also, it works fine when I just manually turn the extruder.

Hello, I was printing my first print (a marvin), and my initial layers turned out horrid, like spider webs! This was one of the nastier ones, but my first marvin had it as well, but it did go away once it reached the top. Does this have to do with the puddle of molten pla I found on top of my heater block? I'm currently using a UMO+ If you've got any tips, please reply! So far, the one solution I've thought of is giving each print a nice, big brim so that it uses up all that horrible printing on that, and once my print starts, it is fine.

Am I correct that all I have to do is buy a new hotend+extruder assembly, set it up in the same way, but put the extruder on the other side and put the hotend through the other hole? Then the new temp sensor goes into the temp 2 terminal, the heater goes into heater 2, and the extruder motor goes into E2, right? It's seems so easy now that I've finished assembling, and it seems like it was built for dual extruders! After I do that, all I need to do is change the firmware, right? To the noobs like me: don't freak out, finish assembling the whole thing, and all the pieces will come together!

Thank you so much guys! I finally managed to get it out, and I'll keep the tips in mind next time!