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Gnevko

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Gnevko last won the day on September 17 2017

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About Gnevko

  • Birthday 07/03/1979

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  1. Surface finish example (ABS, printed with 0.2 mm per layer, 0.8 mm nozzle, 80 mm/s basic speed)
  2. Link to printed parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538598 (it will take some time to prepare all parts and infos for the publishing)
  3. Danke schön ... ahh ... Thank you I tried to make it as stable as possible. The ABS parts was designed to be very massive and printed with 0.8 nozzle, 50% infill and so on. At the moment it looks like to be stable enough... of course it will be nice to have a CNC milling machine at home ... ah dreams dreams At the moment I am very satisfied the the result, I never saw so nice finish surfaces bevor. Next problem zones I want to change / upgrade: 1) try to find really gut linear bearings for the printer head. At the moment I see small gaps between roads and bearings if I try to move the nozzle. 2) try to make the printer bed more stable (I think the vibration on the level changing it's a common issue on Ultimaker printers). 3) mount extruder on a wall or something like that but not directly on the printer (to avoid additional vibrations from retraction movements).
  4. Hi! For a long time I didn't write anything on this forum ... but now my project is nearing completion. It was once Ultimaker Original Plus Designed with Autodesk Fusion 360. Printed with ABS (0.8 nozzle). Link to printed parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2538598
  5. Following works for me Step 1: delete CURA.app from Programms Step 2. empty Trash (!important!) Step 3. Restart Mac OS X Step 4. install CURA 2.3 again
  6. Hi, Neotko! It seams that CURA crashes at the beginning. It doesn't write any log files at all. Interesting is, that with CURA 2.3 Beta I had no problems.
  7. Hi, I can't start neu CURA version (2.3 release, not betta) at all. It crashes every time by trying to start. :(
  8. I don't think so because slicer (in this case - S3D) calculates time for whole layer and not for each perimeter. And the layers are big enough. It's original UMO+ heat cartridge. From other side of block it stick out too. Maybe it's a good idea to take also original UMO+ heat block? but I'm not sure. I will try.
  9. Soo, I have already installed E3D and actually I'm satisfied with it. But what I don't understand: why one part of the thing is overheated? Material: ABS Speed: 60 mm/s Nozzle: 240C Bett: 100C All other sides of it seem to be ok.... hm ...
  10. Hi people! maybe you know what it can be: my UMO+ start to show randomly the "Sleep" message. After that it "freezes" for a half of second (maybe a bit less) and after that it continues to print. Especial it happens if I start to print next object without turn off the printer between prints.... I search in this forum about this issue but only found 2 old posts from 2012 and 2014. Thank you in advance!
  11. Thank you for the advice! What interesting is ... when I printed with PLA I have had no such problems. Also I will change my hot end soon /( to E3D V6 ) and additional I bought a Silicone Sock for it may be it will also help?
  12. Hi people, I try to print with Innofil ABS (Natural) and my print results look like really dirty. I clean the nozzle before each print but it seams not to help much. In several minutes (ok, maybe after 30 minutes or so) the nozzle looks like this again Do I something wrong? Print temperature: 240-250C. Bed temperature: 95C Thank you in advance!
  13. Vielleicht zu spät aber trotzdem Bei filamentworld.de muss man genau wissen, wohin schauen. Was links steht als DRUCKEINSTELLUNGEN Drucktemperatur: 215 – 220 °C stimmt nicht. Mann muss schon auf "Zusätzliche Informationen" gehen, und dort findet man folgendes: DRUCKTEMPERATUR: 250 – 255 °C
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