Swissengineer
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Posts posted by Swissengineer
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J'ai pas eu de soucis avec les nouvelles versions avec une impression seule d'ABS.
Si jamais tu vois que la ça te semble bouché le mieux c'est de tester avec le menu où tu gère l'extrusion de fil manuel. Voire faire un nettoyage de la tête si nécessaire. Une fois que les 2 têtes extrudent bien, là tu commence l'impression.
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I hade the same problem when I had grinding on the PVA feeder on the back... check for any marks of grinding on the filament.
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I have got the same error multiple times, with no real solution. Restart the printer and restart your print.
I've tried recalibrating the Z axis and it did not change anything.
I think it is a bug.
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Comme logiciel de pour piloter l’imprimante j'utilise Cura. Par contre pour faire la CAO après avoir utilisé ProEngineer(Creo) , Solidworks et Inventor, mon préféré est Inventor! Si tu ne compte pas l'utiliser de façon professionnelle, il est gratuit. Il suffit de mettre étudiant et une adresse email, et tu auras un logiciel pro avec license pendant 3ans. Après il suffit de changer d'email et tu as de nouveau 3ans.
Le top avec Inventor, surtout si tu commences, c'est le tutoriel intégré au logiciel. Avec toutes les étapes pas à pas. Vraiment bien fait pour apprendre.
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Wowwww beautiful! Love the size of that thing!!! How much does it weight?
Are you going to do some post-processing?
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Ohh did not see that .. OUPS! Thanks !
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Hey everyone,
I am having some issues of warping between the ABS and my PVA support:
NOT BETWEEN THE BED AND THE PRINT
Any ideas?
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Wow Lots of replies! Thanks!
After a few tests I can confirm that my problem was humidity in the PVA filament.
I took a new spool then printed correctly.
If you read my first post at the end: The first thing I did was clean the heads with cold and hot pull.
Okay back on PVA,what I'm guessing based on my experience of 2 weeks printing everyday with PVA is:
When PVA is exposed to humidity. It becomes more "breakable", so harder.
If you take for example a cookie left too long in the oven, it will not be squishy but will crack very easily.
Now talking a little bit more scientific:
For us we always need to stay in the elastic behavior for the insertion of the material be good.
So our best solution is what ultiarjan and others did. Keep the materials (All of then them) is a low humidity box.
I'm still a bit surprised, ultimaker did not propose an idea, maybe they did not have the time to.
As soon as a make my solution I will post for you guys! But it will wait next year!
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Try these:
- reseting the printer
- reseting computer
- changing the USB port
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Thanks guys I thought I would have to put everything in the trash! I will try all that,
I have a climatic chamber so I can control the humidity level.
I hope the spool holder doesn't melt!
To solve all that I'm thinking about designing a new spool holder inspired of your designs. But I need mine to be as small as possible. Like the one for scaffold but with a solid enclosure like the one from ultiarjan. As soon as I have it I will do some pictures!
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Nice! I think the scaffold is PVA based, so I guess I can try the same thing!
To bad ultimaker doesn't make a cover for PVA spool
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Love the ideas!! Thanks guys! But what can I do with my filament that seems to be ruined?
I was thinking about heating it up in a low temp in the oven 80°C? To remove the humidity? Maybe?
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Hello everyone,
I would like to share some experiences I've had with PVA printing.
Since I got my brand new UM3E, I use really often PVA for small supports, because it is easy to remove (lower adhesion, and I don't even need to put in water! That's cool!)
That means I use it every day. So I can't remove the spool every time to store inside a bag.
So I'm guessing my PVA is absorbing water and then being more fragile (more grinding)
And the result is bad insertion and non constant material extrusion.
Here is some pictures to illustrate.
Do you guys have any solutions? or had the same problems?
Btw, I've tried lowering the tension, I did a cleanup of BB core, my PVA spool is only two weeks old...
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Yes I am always printing with brim, the problem is , even with the first brim catches it, it still high enough to get under the head and being dragged around...
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Hello everyone, I am having often the same issue:
When the printer starts a print, she does a small glob of material in the top front corner, but I often had that glob stuck under the print head and ruining the print, so the only solution I have found is to wait and remove manually the glob before it starts the print.
More often when printing with ABS, and really often with PVA
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But I think they need some scientific work to test all of this. Before printing a house some structural test must be made, also materials tests. But I really think this is the future.
I am sure within 10 years we will have the firsts real results.
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Take a look at this:
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Ok I just got my new PVA roll, I tried and it worked perfectly with no problems. So I am pretty sure my first PVA which was sent by Ultimaker was exposed to humidity during transport and storage. I just got it since 1 week so I think there was a problem there.
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After disassembly
Im having a problem with grip on PVA I thing the material is too hard.
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There is my problem! HELP!!!
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This makes it complicated... It means I will have 3 areas...
One for the electronics with vent holes
One for the spool with thermal regulation
One for the printing area with thermal regulation (Higher temp?)
Now what I need to define is the temperatures of these areas....Any ideas?
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My goal is primary acoustic ( We have the printer inside our office next to our working stations) and secondly, is a am closing the printer anyway for acoustics, let's do it the right way and making it the best thermally also. We want to print with CPE+ for example.
I was thinking a full enclosure around the whole printer. Using Bosch aluminum frames. With plexiglass. Isolating foam on the sides. and 2 doors (Front and back). A top removable panel just in case. The hole thing bolted over a cabinet with all the tools and filaments under it. And additionally a computer fan (low noise) with thermal control of the inside case to avoid overheating.
The whole system is next to windows (here in Switzerland it gets cold!) so for now when we print we can't open the windows because we worry of affecting the printing.
Also avoid to much exposure of the printer of the sun. (Machines don't like UV
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Hello everyone, I was thinking about making an enclosure for my UM3E.
My goal is thermal and acoustic. So I want to have the best results to work with hard to print materials and at the same time, reduce the noise, to have the printer inside our office. ( Also prevent dust and moisture exposure)
But my concern for now is: What temperature (max) should I have inside the enclosure?
I was thinking about having a fan with the electronics to regulate it based on a set temperature automatically.
For example, 20°C less than the bed temperature. So when my enclosure gets to that temperature, I regulate it with the fan speed. And I would try to get the temperature of the bed automatically. So whenever I print I always have the best temperature.
What do you think?
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Nice, I was thinking about building a Full enclosure for heat and noise purposes. Do you think some ventilation is needed? I worry about getting too hot inside.
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Best orientation to print large stand?
in Improve your 3D prints
Posted
Look at the back of the printer to see if the filament has any grinding marks on it...