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  1. I'm also having this issue! I can't understand it. The profile is correct, Cura is in its latest version and it was even working fine before. Previously I printed with PLA and the warm bed was no problem. The pre-printing sequence went bed levelling -> print core heating -> bed heating -> print. Now it seems to be straight-up skipping the bed heating stage and just trying to print straight onto a completely cold bed! Edit: User error. Turns out there was a new Cura update last week and this seems to have solved the problem (and also tightened up a whole bunch of other little UM3 ni
  2. Version 1.0


    This model was made by Thingiverse user DutchMogul for the Make-A-Thon design challenge and no wonder it won because it's a LOVELY design. No support needed for the lid and look at that bridging! Very sexy. The hinge is also fully functional and fits comfortably enough that I doubt it will break any time soon. I also love the raised dots and pattern. A little bit of elephant's foot on the rim of the lid meant that it didn't want to close at first, but some work with a pen knife sorted that out. Similarly, the key did not want to fit into the lock at first but a little bit of effort on the loc
  3. Version 1.0


    My very first dual-colour print on the Ultimaker 3. I used some of our own PLA that I found propping up someone's monitor and it worked really nicely. The red is spoolWorks Phonebox Red and the black is spoolWorks Basic Black. The small layer height gave a lovely smooth effect but of course took bloody ages. The black parts are of a slightly lower quality than the red, and this is apparently because the black prefers to print at a slightly higher temperature. There is also a very small amount of nasty denting at the tip because i was a little rough when getting the print off the bed. And o
  4. Version 1.0


    Printed with recommended settings in British Racing Green Edge on an Ultimaker 3, as practice/testing. The detail is lovely and the joints rotate freely, but the two halves don't quite join correctly. As you can see they're not flush against each other. Not sure what's caused this as the settings seem to be otherwise spot-on, with only very minor catching inside the joints and angel-hair in the body. Might just glue the two halves together
  5. This is actually a really interesting discussion re: the Olsson block, and it's created a lot of chat in the office this morning. I've gone back to engineering and have a clearer picture of things now. Olsson blocks, as you know, were basically made to adapt the UM2 for E3D's nozzles, and they achieve this by having the same thread-type as we use (M6). This means that in theory they should perfectly fit our nozzles, which is great and cool and means that we get to make nozzles for the Ultimaker community. But in practice the threaded section of the nozzles are longer than the Olsson block t
  6. Sorry about the marketing bullshit So the reason we haven't got a comparison to an Olsson block on the table is because honestly I don't have the specs for it. I've just chatted to Sanjay and we'll try and get them and add them to the wiki hopefully on Monday, but I did want to link to the wiki since a number of people were asking what the point of the E3D upgrade even was. But you guys are all experienced makers and smart people and you know what can be done with UM2s. And you're absolutely right. UM2s can print a wide range of filaments including PLA, ABS, CPE, CPE+, PC, Nylon and TPU9
  7. Sorry about that LePaul, I'm just a new hire and trying to get used to the community and get excited about printing and so on. We use Ultimakers really regularly in-house and I'll hopefully get to keep playing with them and posting prints and experiences (not just 'marketing bullshit' )
  8. I realise that the video I posted doesn't really go into details re: benefits of upgrading, but all3dp have released an (impartial!) review that goes into a lot of detail about the pros and cons of the E3D upgrade, available here. In short, the benefits are: Better extrusion Swappable nozzles Heating to high temperatures (though I get that that isn't your bag) Print pretty much any filament Though if you're interested in just a raw spec comparison we've got one here.
  9. People have been modding their Ultimakers to make use of the E3D ecosystem for years, so we've released a kit that contains everything that the technical tinkerer or engineering aficionado could need to boost their Ultimaker 2. It's still quite an advanced project though, so we've teamed up with Tom Sanladerer to help guide you through 8) As ever, the documentation is up on our wiki, along with a comparison table for those wondering what the point of this mod even is.
  10. Scaffold is indeed PVA-based so warming your PVA on a bed should hopefully work for you. I also believe that Tom Sanladerer bakes his filament to dry it, which should work as long as the temperature is VERY low. It's genuinely quite a challenge to keep PVA dry enough to print reliably though (hence E3D's vacuum-sealing and desiccant), as moisture doesn't just mess up the filament melt, but also dissolves PVA and messes with its chemical structure.
  11. Version 1.0


    Here at E3D headquarters we get to play with a LOT of 3D printers. It's one of the perks of the job, but when we get a new printer we're still always very excited to see what it can do. When the Ultimaker3 came in we thought it deserved a more exciting stress test than old reliable benchy. Enter: These beautiful gems and their vertiginous overhangs. We printed in our own spoolWorks Edge filament in British Racing Green, which gave a beautiful metallic, semi-opaque satin finish.
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