1337Slewis

UM3, but its rather irrelevant seeing as the issue is Cura. Thanks for link mate, you're a legend. This should get me there

Changing/Entering new data into 'Material Type' or 'Brand' seems to delete it

Hi guys, I am trying to add a new material profile for PETG, but after filling out 2-3 fields the software cancels the adding of a new profile and selects the ABS profile at the top of the list. I have tried duplicating and creating, both same result. I have added material profiles before without a problem, but now it is not playing ball. I have the latest update, restarted PC, everything I can think of. Any assistance would be greatly appreciated, thank you.

I have a few UM3s and a UM3E, but I was looking at getting a Lulzbot Taz 6 for its larger print volume. I would like to keep using Cura as my main slicing program seeing as it is so great and easy to use; although I checked the "Add Printer" list of supported printers and noticed Lulzbot is not there, not even there older machines. Are there any plans to add support for them?

You guessed it, Ultimaker 3.

I run Windows 10 and Cura 2.7 latest version. Since the new Cura 2.7, my OS has been shutting down the process tree after a few hours, claiming Cura is using too much RAM. Now I have 32GB of RAM, so I'm pretty convinced my PC is lying to me. So the question remains, is it Windows or Cura that has a problem? When Cura gets shut down I lose my current models and postprocessing settings. This happened today, and has essentially thrown away my whole days work. Does anyone have any advice?

I duplicated the 60 micron profile, adjusted the layer height, slowed down the travel speed a touch, and ran with that. Yes, I am using the standard 0.4mm Ultimaker AA core. Keen to get 3DSolex cores for a variety of sizes, but that stuff is pricy, gotta save up a bit more =/ I'm getting good results with PLA, but PVA does not like operating so thin. The BB core blocked within a few hours. I'd like to find a way to have Extruder 1 operating on a 40 micron profile, while having Extruder 2 operate on an 80 micron profile (double thickness for higher flowrate to prevent carbonizing PVA in the core head). Cura (no plugins, can't seem to find any) doesn't seem to support what I need though

I'm in need of some assistance. I have a job thats asking for 40 micron, I own a UM3. Does anyone have a profile? Or could point me in the right direction? Thanks

Ok, so I tried capillary action with water, alcohol and even window cleaner to no avail. Ended up heating the bed to 65/70'c and pushed a plastic paint scraper under the print. Only minimal warping after it had cooled (: but the adhesion sheet was destroyed. Honestly my big issue with this, is that my supplier put me onto these adhesion sheets when I asked him for PEI sheets, which Australia apparently cannot get their collective hands on. I will hang onto the adhesion sheets for CPE and other tempermental materials

Fair point. But I am still stuck with a print solidly adhered to a plate, and I would rather get the print off without destroying the sheet. This is my current dilemma. I had the idea of putting the glass plate back in the Ulti3 and cranking up the heat until it seperates. The adhesion sheets can happily go up to 100'c.

Got my kit yesterday, slapped on an adhesive sheet and started a print (100mm x 100mm print) Now I can't get the PLA print off the plate without destroying the adhesive sheet. Its stuck so good I'm worried about breaking the glass plate during removal. Does anybody have any experience with these, or perhaps a tip or trick I don't know yet? My next attempt involves modifying a paint scraper, so any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the advice guys! I will proceed at 75'c for ~8 hours

Seeing as nobody has replied, I may be the first to tackle the issue. In the spirit of this forum and community, I will be posting my experimental results as they come in with times/temps/weights/tips and tricks.

I live in eastern Australia, where humidity can be an issue. I was wondering if anyone has any advice on temperatures and times for baking or dehydrating PVA to bring it back to factory condition. I have bought myself a large FoodLab Dehydrator for reconditioning the PVA rolls, just wondering if anyone can give me a head start before I potentially destroy my rolls. My plan of action as it stands is: Dehydrate at 65'C, after which I seal the roll in an airtight bag while it cools, so it cannot reabsorb water vapor whilst cooling. Any advice, even anecdotal observations, would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

Honestly loving it. The quality they can do is amazing.