rajilpahuja
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3D Prints
Posts posted by rajilpahuja
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50 minutes ago, tinkergnome said:
That's ok. @rajilpahuja: "Mark 2 Tweaks" is a post-processing script, not a plugin.
@bob-hepple: In Cura choose "Extensions -> Post Processing -> Modify G-Code -> Add a script"
It should be in the list.
I had almost forgotten its post-processing, but that thing solved all my extra movement issues ?
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13 minutes ago, bob-hepple said:
I checked my Directory Ultimaker Cura 3.2/plugins/postprocessingPlugins/scripts and it is listed Mark2Tweaks.py so I take it this is enabled automatically so you don't see it in the plugins in cura
Nope it doesn't work like that, you gotta actually copy it into the plugins directory and then start cura and check the menu ?
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20 minutes ago, bob-hepple said:
where do you get the plugin from, I have cura 3.2.0 installed along with the cura files from git hub Mark2 ?? but that plugin in is not listed in the installed plugins OR the available plugins??
Its there with the mark2 files on github please check
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1 hour ago, wong said:
Ask you next I cut things out with cura Beginning of the print order is not normal Basic is running around Everything is normal with s3d Cura3.3.1 Please help resolve
Please install and use the mark-tweaks plugin, that will resolve everything ?
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1 hour ago, georgp said:
Thank you guys. I tried the food dryer and calibrated everything from scratch but it still doesn't work.
Could you guys maybe share recommended cura settings for printing PLA with head 1 and PVA head 2?
that's my support material: https://www.3djake.at/formfutura/atlas-support-natural
that's my PLA: https://www.3djake.at/extrudr/green-tec-weiss
thanks
I will try to make you a project file, but i don't think atlas is as good as ultimaker PVA, i have some atlas with me, will try and print something that needs a bit of supports
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45 minutes ago, georgp said:
I basically just left it on the spoolholder. Didn't know it's that tricky to print with PVA. I already have installed the MarkTweaks.
Is there any other ways to get the PVA dry by not buying an extra food dryer?
cheers and thanks for the answer
A toaster oven works too, if it can do 45C, else you can turn up your build plate to 45-50C and leave it on the buildplate for 5-6 hours or overnight whichever you prefer there will be a remarkable difference :)
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50 minutes ago, georgp said:
Hi,
again concerning my T-Rex print from above. I think the main issue is, that the PLA doesn't stick to the PVA. I don't know if it's the filament itself or the settings.
Do you have any recommendations how to deal with support PVA in Mark 2 software?
best, Georg
have you dried the PVA well, if PVA is with mositure it will not adhere to the PLA or any other material its being used for, so please make sure your materials are dried well before printing, the best way is getting a food dryer and putting the spools you want to print with in it overnight, you might need to see the best temps for different materials, for PVA and PLA i generally use 45C max out, also the other thing is you have to play with the settings for supports, example the XY distance, the Z distance etc, this will be important some materials are ok with two layers difference some three some might like only one, this is something u get by experience and the marktweaks is a very important plugin must install for all with mark2 tool changer, hope this helps
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29 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
That is so weird. I am glad you put it back up. Do not know what changes you made, but I can see it the last post just fine now
Thanks!!
Btw this print has something special, this uses the ironing function from Cura, people get jitters using this in HT, first time i failed too, but tuned it and it came out beautiful ?
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1 hour ago, kmanstudios said:
No, My "Huh" was because all I can see is text:
"
"The Dark Knight Rises" made in Ultem 1010 Black from @3dxtech truly strong sharp feels like metal @neotko @Ultimaker @77bergkamp19 @VisionMiner @BondtechAB @gr5org #3Dprinting #Batman #JusticeLeague pic.twitter.com/JrcVpPQ49Y
— 3damss (@3DAMSS79) March 27, 2018"
I see no image or anything other than the above text.
And i get this
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7 hours ago, Everready said:
@rajilpahuja Thank you for the positive outlook. I wish you the best in creating and fine tuning your experiments to bring the community highly advanced upgrades for these engineering and medical plastics.
Thanks for the wishes sometimes they are really needed, i will try my best to bring the best things on the table for HT
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7 hours ago, kmanstudios said:
Huh?
Yes its pretty tough with these materials @kmanstudios somedays u feel you mastered them somedays its like you keep finding whats wrong, specially when u change anything in the setup, even when you will use different nozzles u will need to recalibrate the flow, as you know generally there can be tolerances with nozzles, so then its back to tests, optimize the flow rates again, its just a small example i am giving, these materials dont like relatively less than good tuning at all, in one of my twitter posts i mentioned that its better to be using Ruby nozzles, as i found out that brass nozzles wear out quicker when printing this high temperature, or you need another material which can take high temps, these are just some pointers i can give of the problems that may come.
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I wish you lots of Luck, it will be a very hard journey as these materials are very difficult to master but when you do master them there will be nothing more satisfying, in future i will be bringing out a kit for HT and right equipments so more people can use these, will just add a nice print i Did in black Ultem1010
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1 hour ago, Everready said:
gr5 & rajilpahuja thank you for all of your contributions towards 3D printing and creating a better tool
I am highly interested in starting a high temp/high strength Ultimaker build. Would you also be able to reverse the motors on the UM2? Currently I have a Wanhao Duplicator 4x and have been using it for 5 years( with slight improvements through soldering mosfets and changing G-code) and am looking for an Ultimaker to buy. I have used and modified the UM2 I use at work for my company but I want one for myself. Both the UMO+ and a used UM2 are within reach to start my project. Would either of you or anyone with experience have any recommendations for which one i should start with?
Thank you again
I think the best person to guide will be @gr5 he has plenty of expeirence with code and electronics to me best option would be a UMO as you can mount the motors outside and motors can be reversed ETC there are lot of options however i would advise you to wait for @gr5 s reply ?
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On 2/19/2018 at 9:27 PM, geert_2 said:
Maybe you could simulate this by designing such custom supports in your CAD model? And switch off all supports in Cura? Then you can give any shape you want to the supports in the main material, and to the thin interface-layer in the second material?
I dont think PLA will handle peek coming on top of it at 400C and to print peek i need 160 on the bed, plus air temps 65C so its kinda not possible using it technically.
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On 2/16/2018 at 6:24 PM, kmanstudios said:
That sounds interesting...what did you do?
This is how we do it ?
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On 2/16/2018 at 6:24 PM, kmanstudios said:
That sounds interesting...what did you do?
Have a look just an idea of what can be done
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1 hour ago, kmanstudios said:
That sounds interesting...what did you do?
I made a mount like the original ultimaker 2 with modifications to fix the E3D head V6
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On 2/13/2018 at 10:18 PM, leonardo-aguiar said:
Hi gr5,
Now that you mentioned it, I noticed that the nozzle is visibly further to the right in comparison with the original UM2 hot end.
I'm guessing I need to adjust Cura for this? I don't know how. Do you?
Thanks
Better to redesign the mount rather than taking the stock E3D design, as they are old, i kinda solved this for my V6 by reworking the wholething
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9 minutes ago, gr5 said:
Another cool trick would be to print peek as support material except for the interface layer. Then put a layer of PLA way up high in the print where the support meets the main material. It would be a thin layer interface. Then when done you could heat the whole print to 100C and the supports will just fall off.
I don't think cura supports this feature but people have asked for it - they want 90% of their support printed with PLA and only the interface layer printed with PVA. This doesn't work well with PVA as PLA sticks well on top of PVA but PVA doesn't stick so well on top of PLA. With nylon and PVA I think this would work great. But again - not sure that cura supports this idea.
@gr5 I have simplify too, still have to try mark2 on that, i am just trying to finish designing that kit, its quite a bit of work, and i am thinking i might need your help on the software for this, dam lots of changes.
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Ok a second thought what about pure PC ? What say @gr5, @kmanstudios ?
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13 minutes ago, gr5 said:
You could maybe use ABS as support material and melt it away later? Except with a bed of 130C the ABS will slump and not work. Hmm. PLA and PVA will be even more liquid than ABS at 130C. Maybe ABS will work anyway? Not sure. Ultimaker PP has a softening temp around 115C so maybe that would work - not sure.
9 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:Would it stick enough to PP without dragging it around or other issues? I use yogurt tops to mix my epoxy in, which is a PP material and as soon as it is dried, you can peel it off. Not much sticks to that stuff.....
@gr5 @kmanstudios I am guessing we need a material which is more heat resistant, 3dxtech has some sorta support which is break away, but not soluble like PVA stratsys has it but that they wont sell to general people like us, but yes i am thinking HT dual now, just hope i dont blast the dam board.
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1 hour ago, kmanstudios said:
One can dream LOL....as long as there is some sort of support available for the crazy designs.
Ya well i think once i get my kit out many things will be possible i think.
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No that wont last at all, this breakaway is printed at ultem temps so kinda different
43 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:I was wondering about the Breakaway from UM. Is that the breakable support you mention?
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1 minute ago, kmanstudios said:
I wonder what you could use as a support material with this stuff.
There is a breakable support available, and stratasys has a soluble one that might not be available
Ultimaker Mark2 - The Smart Dual-Extrusion Upgrade
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
I need to check this too, but it can just be that UM isnt supporting the script now, hence downgrading maybe the only option for now.