rajilpahuja
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3D Prints
Posts posted by rajilpahuja
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6 hours ago, kmanstudios said:
How strong is it in general? Can it take a whacking or a dropping?
@kmanstudios it can sure take a whack, if its pretty well printed, you can whack it with a plastic hammer and it wont crack unless the force is really big, dropping and all doesnt crack it, it just looks delicate with its golden color and all, but its not, after all they use it in aircraft and automotives to replace metals
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7 hours ago, Labern said:
Its pretty expensive filament but you are getting some very nice results. Cant believe how nice it prints.
Defiantly something I would like to work towards printing some day.
How strong is the layer adhesion?
@Labern the layer adhesion is pretty strong, if all the temps are right and once printed the print is very strong and resistant to a lot of things, and it is pretty expensive however this price will come down soon also and for other materials as well , the printers for this are also expensive, thats why I plan to make a kit so it becomes pretty affordable for all, lets see keeping my fingers crossed will inform you guys when i launch that kit.
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Yaah, you can technically do a dual with ultems, but then two hotends sucking 40 watt each i really dunno, i guess @gr5 might know if so much power can be used from the board ?
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3 minutes ago, kmanstudios said:
Showoff
I am so jealous.....LOL
That is really sweet looking. So clean! What were you using for support?
Haha ?, no supports used actually this much overhang can be printed, without issues, and hopefully i plan to come up with a kit for HT in the next two months, then all can Print Ultem and Peek and it will be awesome ?
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Happy Valentines Day Guys, here is a Ultem1010/Ultem9085 combo Rose to celebrate it ?
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51 minutes ago, garaha2012 said:
Thank you very much, the factory reset stopped the extended z movement.
Now I will go through the whole settings again including a renewal of the firmware.
One other question:
I have used the stepper of the UM Original feeder to drive the UM2 feeder for the second unit.
It is this one.
Also I believe the same the UMO uses for xyz axis movement.
Can you tell me how many steps I need to adjust to and - more important - where do I change the steps per length?
I guess @tinkergnome would be the best person to answer it, i think there shudnt be much difference though
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7 minutes ago, tinkergnome said:
Yep, the setting stays there, once it is stored - at least until the next "factory reset".
Go to "Advanced -> Preferences -> Print area" and reduce the maximum z-value to a lower value (225mm is the default for an UM2+).
BTW: thank's for the picture - it looks great!
this could also be a option
and coming from tinker it has to be, he is a genius with this stuff
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40 minutes ago, garaha2012 said:
Good morning experts,
I am stuck with my Mark 2 conversion and need some help.
I had my Ultimaker original - very original, one of the very first - converted to be an UM2+.
This "UMO2+" is a very good printer and gives a lot of joy.
Next step was to convert to Mark 2.
Everything went fine with one problem remaining.
When I want to "adjust z" my print bed moves up and never stops. The print bed then crushes into the print head.
I do not know how to make the print bed stop near the nozzle.
Now, one suspicion I have:
Loading the Tinker firmware I initially made the mistake to load the extended version, but had that replaced twice with the correct firmware version "expansion-board".
I had the firmware replaced before I started to "adjust z".
It appears as if the Ultimaker still has the extended length in force, despite the change in firmware.
Maybe someone has experienced the same and/ or could offer advice .
Thank you very much.
Hi there,
there is nuthing to suspect, the new firmwares store some settings inside the eeprom, so i would recommend you first factory reset and install back the original um2+ latest firmware just check it out whether it functions normally, then again hit a factory reset and install the correct version as per your printer, once done try the setup again it will be a success, i realised this eeprom thing while doing my HT printer with @tinkergnome and @gr5, so good luck and hopefully please show us some impressive results.
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8 hours ago, conny_g said:
Everything ready to convert my 2nd printer to Mark 2.
Really neatly printed mark 2 parts and a wow white color, so suits and complements the um2+ ??
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since you mention medical this product might interest you
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Just now, tiaguera79 said:
It worked really fine! Temp error only above 403 degrees... guess I’ll try printing at 400 and see what heapens...
can’t thank you enough for you support!
Awesum !!! now try your PEEK, I m guessing it should be good, do show us some pictures of your work, I tried the sensor for 500C works till 415C will test for 450C and then i am done, because i really have no application for 500C yet, who know maybe CF-PEEK one day, if it works well for a week i will give you guys a shout about it, and then i could provide this solution to all
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This is awesome research @gr5 and very helpful in determining what specific material should be used for the corresponding application.
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6 hours ago, tiaguera79 said:
I bought a stainless steel nozzle set for that. Is that better?
Steel Would work but i dont know how good all this is for medical, for mechanical parts its all good:
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8 minutes ago, gr5 said:
I don't think you need a ruby nozzle - I'm not aware that peek is harder than brass.
You can't use the PT100 with that AD547 board - so that's part of your problem. The voltage out should not be 4.9V - it should be about 0.2V. But that's because your using a PT100 instead of a thermocouple.
The UM PCB has a circuit on it that can measure PT100 directly. You don't need any special electronics. But you have to connect it to a different part of the PCB. There should be 3 temperature in circuits. You have to use one of those 3 connectors (temp1, temp2, temp3). The special PT100 circuitry only connects to those three locations so you have to use one of those.
@gr5 peek is not harder sure, but at 400 brass does loose its integrity a bit and i have a few worn nozzles, those high temps are really taxing on brass so better to have a ruby which is harder and wont loose shape, plus ruby wont really contaminate his parts as his needs are medical he says, thats just my opinion but you are more knowledgable on this
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6 minutes ago, tiaguera79 said:
I need for Medical propose...
do you have WhatsApp or telegram so we could talk?
What i can see from your pics, is that you are using a volcano kinda hotend, not really made for this kinda stuff, you either need a e3d v6 or a dyze, for HT printing, and make sure that PT100 is rated for 500C, plus the peek you buy must be top draw else you will run into a lot of problems, specially with your medical application, also consider getting a ruby nozzle from 3d solex or ander osslon, those will be good for medical stuff i guess.
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And most grades of peek can print at 400C that is quite good, however for some medical grades is 425-450C
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Can you send me a pic of what you bought ? So i can advise accordingly, the sensor i have is specifically for peek, and Carbon fiber peek, and if you want these sensors let me test them, if all is ok i will send you a pair to use
, these are a bit more expensive than the normal ones for 400C
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Can you share a picture of your equipment, seems to me you are over complicating things, where did you buy this from, and what is it please show us, so we can guide correctly
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1 minute ago, tiaguera79 said:
And Yes it is a PT100. Sorry I didn’t answer before.
If its a PT100 then the UM2 board is configured for that, why would you do all this stuff ?
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2 hours ago, conny_g said:
Why are you yelling at me?
https://newrepublic.com/article/117390/netiquette-capitalization-how-caps-became-code-yelling
ain't yelling my man, why would i yell ? if the capital alphabets is what makes you feel i am yelling, those are kept on for my programming, cause that uses caps, no hard feelings there
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35 minutes ago, tiaguera79 said:
As on as you have them made I will want a pair.
Thank you and soon I’ll send the diagram...
tks again.
I have it here, will test them this week and let you know, what is the temp u looking at btw, there are ones for 380-390 as well.
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6 minutes ago, conny_g said:
It seems printing is possible with that spring replacement spacer.
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-adjustable-spring-replacement
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement-for-i2k
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/ultimaker-2-spring-replacement
https://www.youmagine.com/designs/um2-spring-replacement
EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE, BUT ITS REALLY UPTO YOU, AND WHAT KIND OF QUALITY IS ACCEPTABLE, FOR ME PERSONALLY FINE DETAILS MATTER, BUT MAYBE THOSE SAME DETAILS DON'T MATTER WITH YOU, SO YOU CAN TRY THIS AS WELL PERHAPS YOU MIGHT GET GOOD RESULTS AND IF YOU DO PLEASE SHARE WITH US TOO
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I SUGGEST YOU GO TO ALIEXPRESS AND GO TO THE SAN BROTHER STORE, YOU WILL GET ALL SPARES THAT ARE NEEDED AND CHEAP, PLUS THEIR QUALITY IS BETTER THAN OTHER STORES, I BOUGHT MY SPARES THERE, THEIR REPRESENTATIVE ALINDA QI IS VERY HELPFUL, SHE WILL GET YOU ALL THAT U NEED FAST, I WOULDN'T RECOMMEND THEM IF THEIR SERVICE AND PARTS WEREN'T GOOD, I WOULDN'T RECOMMEND THEIR FEEDER AS BONDTECH IS THE BEST IN MY OPINION, AND 3D SOLEX IS REALLY KING OF NOZZLES AND UM BLOCKS AT THE MOMENT.
20 minutes ago, conny_g said:Ok, you mean the print head top and bottom plate are not only connected with the alu grid next to the hotend fan but also with alu ring + ptfe + steel Isolator as a static element.
That makes sense. Can’t find it as replacement part separately, though.
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The filament path is more rigid and straight, which gives you beautiful and error free prints, with spring it has the space for movement.
and coming from tinker it has to be, he is a genius with this stuff 
TOPIC FOR PRINTING HT FILAMENTS ( PEEK/ULTEM 1010/ULTEM 9085/PPSU/PSU) ON UM2+
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
@gr5 this seems pretty informative, so there is a chance of dualing ultems, i might have a crack at it then once will show you the results.