rajilpahuja
-
Posts
129 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
2
Content Type
Forums
Events
3D Prints
Posts posted by rajilpahuja
-
-
HI GUYS, TODAY IS TUESDAY AND ITS PSU DAY, RESEMBLES POLYCARBONATE BUT TG IS 186C, THIS IS MY FINAL CONCLUSION TO THE FIVE HT MATERIALS AVAILABLE ON THE MARKET AS OF NOW, ENJOY
-
HI GUYS,
TODAY IS PPSU MONDAY, I AM PRINTING THIS TODAY, ITS ULTEM'S LESSER KNOWN COUSIN WITH A TG OF 220C, AND ITS MORE IMPACT RESISTANT AND MORE CRACK RESISTANT, CHECK OUT THE VIDEO BELOW
-
1
-
-
Until the UM3 series can be modded up to withstand those temps, I am stuck in envy land. But I am watching this thread to learn for the future.
Thanks for sharing!
I guess there must be some mods known to people for HT, but i think Dual wont be possible with this stuff but modified head for directfeed, and some tinkering with the firmware and perhaps u could do that, maybe gr5 and tinkergnome might know something on this i am guessing, i am not so familiar with UM3 but other people around here would be
-
I also sell UM2 and UM3 enclosures in my store but USA customers only. thegr5store.com.
Thats great information George, so people from usa can buy enclosures from you, which is great for HT printing, i recommend printing In an enclosure , to me it results in better quality overall, best for Abs/Nylon/Polycarbonate and all HT filaments as well
-
-
I think you would have found a solution by now if not,
if you have enclosed the printer and the bed is at 120C, try ultem sheets, not prusa ones, buy them from china nice 0.5mm sheets with a glossy surface, 9$ a sheet and PC becomes a breeze try it you will like the results
-
A nice ultem 9085 benchy printed on a UM2+
https://ultimaker.com/en/community/prints/38506-ultem-9085-benchy
-
Did you have to build an enclosure to trap the heat?
Those materials, do you have to deal with fumes ? Or do you have a fume /air filter?
The name of the chinese company, is Sanbrother from aliexpress, they make all kinds of covers and tops and custom enclosures for UM, they are pretty prompt but will need drawings if something special has to be done the representative is Alinda Qi you can contact them for that, however my enclosure has been built by me but i understand not all wud be willing to do everything on their own hence feel free to contact them if you wish.
-
Did you have to build an enclosure to trap the heat?
Those materials, do you have to deal with fumes ? Or do you have a fume /air filter?
Yes an Enclosure has to be built its not that difficult, you can do it yourself, its just some nice acrylic sheets which can be cut to size and joint with Chloroform, else there is the chinese you can get a top made and the door i can give you a contact for that but they arent really cheap, and to what i know these materials dont smell bad at all, and their data doesnt say anything on toxic fumes, however i recommend keeping it in an airconditioned room with a bit of space, and i really dont keep standing there all the time, print the first two layers and move away and check in between, i am thinking of putting a camera soon
-
FYI - 3mm nozzles work fine with 1.75mm filament. You might have more trouble doing a cold pull but I don't do cold pulls much anymore anyway.
Might have trouble as this nozzle is mounted on a E3d block and their heat break is pretty narrow and about 2.1mm in length, i can try tough but its pretty tough cleaning a ruby nozzle if material gets stuck, specially CF filled material, lets see i might give it try
-
I'm guessing the keenvoo just has a power level and not temperature feedback? if so then if your goal is 160C you setup the keenvoo to a power level such that it gets the bed to a bit colder temp by itself (say 130C) and then you use the UM2 heated bed with it's temp sensor to heat it the rest of the way?
And does PEI work with all the materials? And does glue stick also work with all these materials? Which materials have you tried and know for sure work with which method?
The keenvoo does come with a controller they charge extra for that, you first heat your um2 bed to 125C and then start the keenvoo to add up the power, but other way round can be tried i guess, PEI works with all HT materials so does glue, i recommend getting a PEI sheet 5mm thick and print on that, that is real good adhesion, glue also does the trick, but glue can sometimes give away if not applied properly, care must be taken that the bed is well cleaned and then glue is applied else it will come off at those temps, the PEI sheet must be cleaned with isopropyl alchohol 99%, also it is advisable to clean the glass with that pre glueing and i have printed all now, PEEK, Ultem1010, Ultem 9085, PPSU and PSU, only material i havent printed is CF Ultem, which i will do shortly when Carl beck(3dsolex) will give me RUBY nozzels in 1.75mm as these HT filaments are mostly available in that, apart from that i have printed all.
-
1
-
-
What are you using on the print bed? Is it glass with glue? PEI? Also are you using two bed heaters (built in bed heater plus supplemental heater)? And tell us a little about this bed heater - is tinkerMarlin controlling the temp or do you have an external controller that also has temperature feedback?
Hi gr5,
There is two ways to do this, standard way is using a PEI sheet, and the other way is using a glue stick, i am using a supplementary heater from keenovo it has its own temp controller, but the bed itself is controlled by tinker marlin.
-
2
-
-
Peek Printing With Bondtech BMG extruder on UM2+ (nozzle temp 400C, Bed Temp 160C)
-
3
-
-
My First Ultem1010 benchy on UM2+
.thumb.JPG.ea1d2851d51a5ff48ca11c83f17b8319.JPG)
[/media]-
1
-
-
Hi all,
The Goal of this topic is to bring people together who wish to print HT filaments or are printing them already, so that knowledge can be shared and more people are able to do this,
I came across these HT filaments four months ago, and wanted to print these and to what i saw that there was very little data available for this, and hence i decided to research and develop the modifications myself to enable me to test these materials, on my journey i was helped by quite a few people, and i would like to name them and hope they will join this forum to help others as well, so they can help more people print these on their UM successfully their names are as follows :-
"George Roberts" (the gr5 store one of the best persons i have come across and super helpful technically he connected me to tinker and helped with the firmware )
"TinkerGnome" (how can you leave this guy out of anything to do with UM all the programming hacks were his, he is the Mr Genius of UM Community)
"Carl Beck" (3dsolex best nozzle maker and dear friend couldn't print without his nozzles)
"Martin Bondeus" (bondtech, you cant really print these filaments beautifully and with precision without this guys feeders)
"Matt" (3dxtech cause if you wanna print, you need the filaments ofcourse, and quite a helpful guy)
(I also must thank my family and god they are my silent support always)
TEMPERATURES Material Nozzle Bed Ultem 9085 360C 150C Ultem 1010 370C 160C PSU 370C 160C PPSU 380C 160C PEEK 400C 160C
Air temperature is around 60-65C.
-
6
-
1
-
-
Hi,
I am facing a peculiar problem, i am using the second head for pva support, i have kept the stanby temperature at 200 print is at 215, its ultimaker pva, but i notice after 20 seconds or so the temprature goes down to about 110 cause the support part is small, and the layer part is bigger, and then the second nozzle comes and waits to attain 204 and starts printing at that doesnt wait till 215, and this results in bad supports, anyways to correct this, in the firmware or cura, for the head to hold the temp or atleast come to print temprature of 215, if there is a way please let me know, thanks in advance
Rajil Pahuja
-
Hi,
what if i would wanna switch from dual to single mode for some prints, and use more build area, just disabling settings for dual would work, or would need to change the firmware in the printer ?
-
@rajilpahuja, We just need to mirror the head and dock parts and add a second tab to the coupling. So this is already 95% done.
Currently we're trying to figure out if and how we could add the 3rd extrusion train without replacing the electronics (which only has drivers and I/O for two - or since recently even just one - extruder).
I kinda guessed that, that the board doesn't have that capability, maybe need to make a extension board and add some power to it, i did see another ext slot on the main board, or maybe we can make the mark two board bigger with individual power to it, that way it could change the game
-
Hi guys,
I just read On the site that i can have two print heads extra, i would like to know if this can be done, i am willing to spend the extra cash for this, i plan to use one extruder for the outline with a smaller nozzle for detail, and bigger like 0.8 or 1mm nozzle for the infill, and the third for support structure, please let me know on this, thanks in advance
Rajil
-
Wow stole the whole idea and say inspired, maybe this will be the next step to more tool changes, but i think they should have asked for permission for this.
This new printer has been announced on kickstarter:
They disclose that they were inspired by your magnetic tool solution, is it infringing a licence ?
Just returned after two weeks holidays (offline).
I did put a CC BY-NC-SA 3.0 on github. But also learned that it doesn't really protect hardware designs/concepts. In fact there's no suitable way to do this besides patents.
-
Yeah, this is a known issue, somehow cura has issues dealing with custom multi extruder printers when they use the material definitions of the Ultimaker2.
There are 2 options, quick fix, save a project, this does work.
Maybe needed (but not sure) to really fix this, define all materials specifically for the Mark2.
Will try this one tomorrow hopefully can resolve this, thanks for the quick reply
-
Hi,
I am facing a issue here is anyone has a solution, i cant save any profiles that i make in the mark2 tweak for cura, i am using cura 2.5, has anyone here faced this issue, is there a remedy for it, please let me know, thanks in advance
Regards
Rajil
-
Hi,
Facing one issue here, when i use cura with mark2 tweak, i cant save profiles that i make, is anyone here facing the same issue, for me the profiles are important to save time on re-entries, anyways to do this, i am using cura 2.5 with mark2 tweak, thanks in advance for any help
-
Just store both the Z values and you shud be good to go, i would recommend a 0.03 gap which i like to keep, but 0 gap also wud work, the z offset is automatically calculated in the offsets, unless you want to do something special u dont need to touch that figure, hope this helps
Thanks @RudydG for your feedback.
After another 10 try without success I think I'm too stupid for dual print. :angry:
Here the values for the buildplate:
Extruder 1
Extruder 2
What values should I now adjust and on which value?
(maybe a stupid question) Do you set the z axis also for extruder 1? if yes, I haven't done that. Just calibrate your buildplate with extruder 1 just how you normally would do and then set the z axis for extruder 2. if not, I haven't said anything...
.JPG.ea5424b8673f0c5673ebb18be31e5c3c.JPG)
TOPIC FOR PRINTING HT FILAMENTS ( PEEK/ULTEM 1010/ULTEM 9085/PPSU/PSU) ON UM2+
in Third party products & modifications
Posted
THIS IS THE READY PPSU BENCHY HAVE A LOOK AIN'T SHE BEAUTIFUL