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Link

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  1. Yes, use it all the time on my S5
  2. I have to agree, I've never had a single problem with the bed level and it's by far the best auto level I have used on any printer, it's just works every time. Not sure what issue people could be having. It's one of the best features !
  3. I have to admit the default profiles have always confused me in that there are obvious issues with some of them and better prints can be achieved by changing them. Which is odd as the user is encouraged to use them out of the box for the optimal print.
  4. I don't want to sound like a total fan boy, but...... I have owned and still own a number of printers from many manufacturers, including Prusa and nothing comes close the UM printers for accuracy, print quality and repeatability. The reality is FDM by its very nature of melting plastic and extruding it on top of another layer of plastic will mean there are a level of variables which will always be present, different brands of filament, ambient temperatures etc etc, to get a FDM printer to be totally plug and play is just not possible, however you can get close and (for me) UM get by far the closest. When I owned the Prusa I would spend more time tweaking the printer than printing parts, which at first was fun but then just got annoying. Obviously the price point is different, but for me the UM printers offer as near as plug and play as you can get and once you know what you are doing and update profiles for different models and materials they are (for me anyway) as good as it will likely get for FDM. And as for accuracy and print quality, way way better than the Prusa for example (for me anyway). Still haven't got my glass plate though 😛😛......
  5. You are not wrong, I chased the reseller a month or so back and need to do it again, shame we have to do this, the machine is NOT cheap and part of that cost is the after sales and backup ! 😏
  6. I agree, glass is by far the best surface, I spray a bit of 3dlac on and never ever have a single issue. Sticks every single time and simply pops off when cold. I would never buy a printer that bad a fixed pei plate like the Prusa for example (sold it for that very reason, totally hit and miss for adhesion). I can't comment about using a second glass plate as it still hasn't arrived !!!!, Not good 😔
  7. i still haven't received the second glass plate, despite being told it was meant to be in the box with the printer. The UK reseller just says they are on back order with UM. Not great
  8. By setting the line width to .8 it's actually masking the issue as the wall is 1.64 (2 X .82) so reducing the wall doesn't fix the issue just moves the problem away from the problematic overlap function. This is the method @Smithy uses. It's seems the overlap compensation code remains broken and not likely to get fixed 😔. Unless someone from UM can comment here as it's a common issue. Anyway many thanks for taking the time to look into it, really appreciate it. 👍🏻👍🏻
  9. Like you I design my own stuff, interesting you don't use overlap, how many walls do you use if you designed a box for example ?, 2 walls of your set nozzle width ?
  10. Sure, many thanks for looking into this !, this has the same issue model.gcodetube.stl
  11. it def fixes the issue on hollow items like a box with walls in multiple of the line width, however i have tried some solid models which have infill between the walls and tbh haven't seen any adverse affect of not having compensation on, but as i don't really know what it does i can't be sure i should leave it off...
  12. have you considered disbaling compensation ?, i tried a couple of prints with it off, and not see a huge impact, but thats not to say i should turn it off !, i dont really know when it really helps a print ?
  13. i tried that too and as you say it stops the compensation, its like Cura thinks the walls are actually thinning around the corner when it isn't, almost like it slices in straight lines and these lines thin as they turn the corner... i have tried increasing resolution but that doesn't help
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