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glx

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  1. I designed and printed some large (x5 scale) flowers that are inspired by the lego ones. I also designed some additional bricks to build some kind of flowerpot (but I'm not yet happy with it 🤔).
  2. Have you contacted a local reseller? I did read somewhere here that they can provide packagings.
  3. I went completely away from ABS since I discovered the PC-filaments Ultimaker PC as well as the Polymaker PC-Max. At first I was kind of afraid of PC-filaments because its mostly called so difficult to print. I print them both with the default settings on my UM2+ (260°C/110°C) but use (other than recommended) just gluestick and a brim as bed-adhesion on the glassplate what works fine. Don't try it directly on glass, I ruined a glassplate in the beginning when the PC cracked out pieces of the glass while cooling down. For small parts with steep overhangs or bridging I set the cooling fans to 12% (under that my fans don't start reliably). I have my UM2+ fully enclosed, without that I got some issues with warping and it's important to let the parts cool down slowly.
  4. I changed the flow rate within the tune-menu after started printing. I was basically just playing around with some settings, I have some nylon that seems to have no layer adhesion at all, so I tried some things to work against that.
  5. Hi, I just noticed that there seems to be a problem when selecting a different flow rate while printing (e.g. 150%). After the print finished and I change the material right after that print, the material seems to be unloaded with the same modifier. That wouldn't be that much an issue but it also loads the next material with that modifier so it crashes into the nozzle at the high loading-speed and the feeder grinds the filament away. I'm using the original firmware version 3.3.0.
  6. Hm that looks really not that nice for the low speed it is printed 🤔. Are maybe the acceleration-settings a bit high? My 2+ does similar prints (see my blue Benchy) with the factory set quite high settings.
  7. I just printed small stuff until now, but I use 0.2mm layers, a 0.4mm Olsson Ruby nozzle on my Ultimaker 2+. Temperatures are 260°C nozzle and 65°C buildplate printing rather slow with 30mm/s and low cooling fan settings. Some gluestick works fine for adhesion. Some °C more on the nozzle would be good I think, but the 2+ doesn't allow more than 260°C. Overall these settings work fine for me.
  8. Hi, I've seen you like Benchys, so I just printed two 😄. Since I only do this for hobby-use I sadly can't afford (or justify 😅) an S5. The blue one was the first ever thing I printed on my Ultimaker 2+ with no clue of the printer and what PLA-filament that was, just used the suggested and factory-reset values. That's kind of old already. The grey one is from my old i3 Mega, also printed with PLA from which I don't have a clue what brand or exact temperature-range it is, also just used the default settings suggested by Cura. The white one is also printed on my Ultimaker 2+ but with adjusted acceleration-settings on the printer and an, over the time I use the material, slightly tweaked print-profile. This is not printed in PLA, it's Polycarbonate. All of them are printed with 0.15mm layerheight and were sliced with Cura 4.4.1 (the blue one obviously with an older version, since it's kind of two years old now). The only cleanup is the removed brim from the polycarbonate one, the rest is as it came of the printer. The white one sadly contains some discolored material that collected up at the nozzle. So here are some pictures: (there follows some text below the photos 😄) I cannot really compare the results since those are the only three Benchys I ever printed. To be honest, the first thing I thought after printing the very first (blue) Benchy was the same as OP's: "Why the hell can't this ~2000€ machine print a proper Benchy?!". But then I thought a bit further, I bought the Ultimaker not to print cheap-ass PLA, that could also be done with my i3 Mega, I bought it to print more advanced materials that can't be printed at all on that machine. So after learning what the Ultimaker can do, playing around with the settings and using different materials over the time I got some better understanding of what I'm doing and what can be changed to get some aspects better. So after knowing the tools it can also produce a nice (I think it's nice) Benchy. I think you can't expect buying a 6000€ printer will automatically get you perfect prints, it's like buying a expensive Mercedes-AMG, go to a random racetrack and expect the new world-record for that track. You have to know the car, you have to know the track and how they play together, you even might have to consider the weather and stuff. So in my opinion to get good results you need a solid, reliable printer (that has it's price, if that has to be an S5 will stay an open question that everyone has to answer on it's own I think). In my experience it's quite more important to know the materials you use and how they behave in certain conditions. What's also quite important is the design of the printed parts, I think you shouldn't blame the printer, that it can't print something that was intentionally designed not to be printed well (without adjustments) 🤷‍♂️. Oh that became quite a long post (my first ever here in the forum 😄) and maybe a bit offtopic, so long story short, in my opinion an expensive printer doesn't make perfect prints on it's own, you have to tell him how to do it properly. I also like to print CaliCats over Benchys to test stuff:
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