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  1. glx

    Ultimaker S5

    Ich benutze für PLA meistens PETG als Breakaway-Support und andersrum. Bei einfachen Formen und glatten Flächen klappt das super mit 0mm Abstand.
  2. Ich drucke auch ab und zu CF-Filament mit einer 0.4mm Düse. Wichtig ist, dass man die line-width auf mehr als die 0.4mm stellt (ich hab sie meistens auf 0.5mm), sonst verstopft die Düse bei mir sehr schnell. Ich hab so das Gefühl, wenn man zu wenig einstellt, kommt nur das Basismaterial raus und das Carbon-infill bleibt größtenteils in der Düse hängen, was sie irgendwann verstopft. Unter 0.15mm Layerhöhe würde ich auch nicht empfehlen, das begünstigt das verstopfen auch. Ich drucke auf einem UM3 mit einem Core den ich mit einer microswiss-Düse ausgerüstet habe. Den Feeder habe ich so gelass
  3. Oh sorry for the late reply, sure, I uploaded them to Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4283065
  4. I designed and printed some large (x5 scale) flowers that are inspired by the lego ones. I also designed some additional bricks to build some kind of flowerpot (but I'm not yet happy with it 🤔).
  5. Have you contacted a local reseller? I did read somewhere here that they can provide packagings.
  6. I went completely away from ABS since I discovered the PC-filaments Ultimaker PC as well as the Polymaker PC-Max. At first I was kind of afraid of PC-filaments because its mostly called so difficult to print. I print them both with the default settings on my UM2+ (260°C/110°C) but use (other than recommended) just gluestick and a brim as bed-adhesion on the glassplate what works fine. Don't try it directly on glass, I ruined a glassplate in the beginning when the PC cracked out pieces of the glass while cooling down. For small parts with steep overhangs or bridging I set the cooling
  7. I changed the flow rate within the tune-menu after started printing. I was basically just playing around with some settings, I have some nylon that seems to have no layer adhesion at all, so I tried some things to work against that.
  8. Hi, I just noticed that there seems to be a problem when selecting a different flow rate while printing (e.g. 150%). After the print finished and I change the material right after that print, the material seems to be unloaded with the same modifier. That wouldn't be that much an issue but it also loads the next material with that modifier so it crashes into the nozzle at the high loading-speed and the feeder grinds the filament away. I'm using the original firmware version 3.3.0.
  9. Hm that looks really not that nice for the low speed it is printed 🤔. Are maybe the acceleration-settings a bit high? My 2+ does similar prints (see my blue Benchy) with the factory set quite high settings.
  10. I just printed small stuff until now, but I use 0.2mm layers, a 0.4mm Olsson Ruby nozzle on my Ultimaker 2+. Temperatures are 260°C nozzle and 65°C buildplate printing rather slow with 30mm/s and low cooling fan settings. Some gluestick works fine for adhesion. Some °C more on the nozzle would be good I think, but the 2+ doesn't allow more than 260°C. Overall these settings work fine for me.
  11. Hi, I've seen you like Benchys, so I just printed two 😄. Since I only do this for hobby-use I sadly can't afford (or justify 😅) an S5. The blue one was the first ever thing I printed on my Ultimaker 2+ with no clue of the printer and what PLA-filament that was, just used the suggested and factory-reset values. That's kind of old already. The grey one is from my old i3 Mega, also printed with PLA from which I don't have a clue what brand or exact temperature-range it is, also just used the default settings suggested by Cura. The white one is also printed on my Ultim
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