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  1. Oh you were very lucky, there are nightmare-pictures around here where this completely killed both cores and flooded the complete printhead (looking at that beautiful CC-Core). The most crucial thing is to get the part stuck down securely. I use almost always a brim (for small things that I can observe while they print usually not) and use mostly Dimafix glue.
  2. I guess he doesn’t want the regular walls on the top layers, but I don’t know why there could be an issue with them. You can get rid of the extra wall around the top infill (the option is called „Extra skin wall count) but not the walls, or you can switch to concentric infill, then everything looks the same.
  3. They have also the 17-4 stainless steel filament. As far as I know these filaments adopt techniques and processes that are commonly used in metal injection moulding and aluminium can’t be (easily) injection moulded due to oxidation and temperature issues. So I guess there are no aluminium-filaments out there. I’m no expert in that area, I was just curious about the same thing some time ago because I thought it could probably be easier to process because of its significantly lower melting point, but there seem to be other problems that can’t be easily solved.
  4. How many top layers did you use? That effect is called pillowing, it comes from the layers on top of the infill not nicely bridging over the infill gaps. You can usually get rid of it by just adding more top layers and/or increasing the infill. Alternatively you can lower the printing temperature, slow down the print speed for the top layers and/or increase the amount of cooling.
  5. Have you checked the small cable in the back of the printhead (looking from the front in the middle behind the cores, a red and white wire that connects to a PCB on the hatch). That can break, I had this recently and it did the same, I then discovered that the white wire broke off, the auto leveling worked sometimes, I guess when the wire had by chance some contact. It's kind of difficult to spot if you don't know it can happen.
  6. Mine somehow looks a little different, but the spring is supposed to push the lifting switch down when the core is deployed. As far as I remember the spring isn't that strong (since the core itself is pressed down by its own spring), you should be able to push it back in place with some tweezers. If that doesn't work, you probably have to disassemble the printhead and get it back in place.
  7. I just noticed recently that there is an issue when printing objects that reach closely to the maximum z-height of my UM3. The thing I printed is 198mm tall. While printing everything is fine, the problem occurs when the print is finalised. The printhead moves slightly to the side, then the printer homes the z-axis that causes the build plate to raise a bit before lowering it. Since there is no extra margin the printed object crashes into the printhead. I had this happening three times recently (I don’t print that tall things often and I think it was the first time I printed something that r
  8. Im basically using the default settings with an UM3 on arachne alpha. There are strange things happening, when the infill is at a narrow area there are inserted mini travel moves (e.g. these blue dots in the circled area) that cause the printer to nearly stop moving (I'd say it's below 1mm/s in these areas). Regular infill works, it only happens when the infill area is quite small. An option for the "order inner walls by inset" that affects only the first layer would be good. I had some issues on the first layers with an object with many holes, the printhead combed across everything
  9. glx

    Ultimaker S5

    Ich benutze für PLA meistens PETG als Breakaway-Support und andersrum. Bei einfachen Formen und glatten Flächen klappt das super mit 0mm Abstand.
  10. Ich drucke auch ab und zu CF-Filament mit einer 0.4mm Düse. Wichtig ist, dass man die line-width auf mehr als die 0.4mm stellt (ich hab sie meistens auf 0.5mm), sonst verstopft die Düse bei mir sehr schnell. Ich hab so das Gefühl, wenn man zu wenig einstellt, kommt nur das Basismaterial raus und das Carbon-infill bleibt größtenteils in der Düse hängen, was sie irgendwann verstopft. Unter 0.15mm Layerhöhe würde ich auch nicht empfehlen, das begünstigt das verstopfen auch. Ich drucke auf einem UM3 mit einem Core den ich mit einer microswiss-Düse ausgerüstet habe. Den Feeder habe ich so gelass
  11. Oh sorry for the late reply, sure, I uploaded them to Thingiverse. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4283065
  12. I designed and printed some large (x5 scale) flowers that are inspired by the lego ones. I also designed some additional bricks to build some kind of flowerpot (but I'm not yet happy with it 🤔).
  13. Have you contacted a local reseller? I did read somewhere here that they can provide packagings.
  14. I went completely away from ABS since I discovered the PC-filaments Ultimaker PC as well as the Polymaker PC-Max. At first I was kind of afraid of PC-filaments because its mostly called so difficult to print. I print them both with the default settings on my UM2+ (260°C/110°C) but use (other than recommended) just gluestick and a brim as bed-adhesion on the glassplate what works fine. Don't try it directly on glass, I ruined a glassplate in the beginning when the PC cracked out pieces of the glass while cooling down. For small parts with steep overhangs or bridging I set the cooling
  15. I changed the flow rate within the tune-menu after started printing. I was basically just playing around with some settings, I have some nylon that seems to have no layer adhesion at all, so I tried some things to work against that.
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