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Link

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Posts posted by Link

  1. 21 minutes ago, zungara said:

    I think they have I bigger problem. Today I got the air manager. The Air Manager was recognized with the new firmware but not configured. When you do I got an unspecified Error (E36) 

    The downgrade of the firmware will work again, but with no air manager.....

    i am not sure you can downgrade the FW, is this possible ?

  2. I just updared my S5 firmware and the first print ended and just sat there in the cooldown phase with the print head a short way above the print

    @CarloK please help

    I selected skip cooldown, then the next print went haywire !, it dragged the nozzle accorss the bed after the level procedure and then the bed just dropped all the way to the bottom and failed !!!!, the software effectuvly crashed, never seen this before

     

    any ideas, can i roll back firmware ?

     

    Also i updated my Mac to Cataylina, but cant see how this would affect the slice and the end of the print ?

     

  3. There is bug with 'not in infil' where Cura will it will either retract or comb when it shouldn't, I found it some time ago and discussed it on here. I don't think it ever got fixed. You can search for it user smart avionics looked into it at the time. Not sure if he is still around. But I just moved to not in skin to get consistent results. This could well be your issue

     

  4. Do you really mean infil or bottom layers ?, I do you have infil set to 100% ? If not you are looking at bottom layers. 

     

    I very much doubt there is a bug as you describe. Likely you have a setting difference between the two profiles. Set combing to not in skin (I think you are talking about the bottom layers, not the infil) bottom layers are classed as skin, so you want not in skin. 

     

    Also check things like 'retract at layer change' that would well be on in the profile where it's doing the extra retract. 

  5. On 8/6/2019 at 12:23 PM, SandervG said:

    Hi @Link, we're sorry to hear you have not received the additional build plate yet. I don't think you have to chase down the reseller, but if it makes feel more at ease knowing they haven't forgotten about you, you should definitely feel free to reach out to them. 

     

    I'll also reach out to them to see where they stand. How has your Ultimaker been working for you in the mean time? Hope it helps, have a great day! 

     

    Coming back to this topic @SandervG I still haven't either heard anything nor recieved my second glass plate, could you please update ?

    • Like 1
  6. I have to admit the default profiles have always confused me in that there are obvious issues with some of them and better prints can be achieved by changing them. Which is odd as the user is encouraged to use them out of the box for the optimal print. 

  7. 8 hours ago, P3D said:

     

    I can second this. It is a good machine, but far away from the "plug and print" experience that is advertised, and the print quality and accuracy is still not where I would expect it at that price point (which may be more of a software than a hardware issue, but it doesn't look like Cura is going to get drastically better suddenly). Honestly (and I hope UM won't ban me from this forum for this), if the printing volume of a Prusa i3 is enough for your needs and you don't really need (and by that I mean, *really need*) dual extrusion, I would probably get that one. (And I would start with one machine, not with three).

    If, however, you *need* dual extrusion (not "like to have it"), AND need the big build volume of the S5, then you can consider it - but still, look around a bit before you really order your machine.

     

    I don't want to sound like a total fan boy, but...... I have owned and still own a number of printers from many manufacturers, including Prusa and nothing comes close the UM printers for accuracy, print quality and repeatability. The reality is FDM by its very nature of melting plastic and extruding it on top of another layer of plastic will mean there are a level of variables which will always be present, different brands of filament, ambient temperatures etc etc, to get a FDM printer to be totally plug and play is just not possible, however you can get close and (for me) UM get by far the closest. 

    When I owned the Prusa I would spend more time tweaking the printer than printing parts, which at first was fun but then just got annoying. Obviously the price point is different, but for me the UM printers offer as near as plug and play as you can get and once you know what you are doing and update profiles for different models and materials they are (for me anyway) as good as it will likely get for FDM. And as for accuracy and print quality, way way better than the Prusa for example (for me anyway). 

     

    Still haven't got my glass plate though 😛😛......

     

    • Like 2
  8. I agree, glass is by far the best surface, I spray a bit of 3dlac on and never ever have a single issue. Sticks every single time and simply pops off when cold. I would never buy a printer that bad a fixed pei plate like the Prusa for example (sold it for that very reason, totally hit and miss for adhesion). I can't comment about using a second glass plate as it still hasn't arrived !!!!, Not good 😔

  9. By setting the line width to .8 it's actually masking the issue as the wall is 1.64 (2 X .82) so reducing the wall doesn't fix the issue just moves the problem away from the problematic overlap function. This is the method @Smithy uses. It's seems the overlap compensation code remains broken and not likely to get fixed 😔. Unless someone from UM can comment here as it's a common issue. 

     

    Anyway many thanks for taking the time to look into it, really appreciate it. 👍🏻👍🏻

     

  10. 3 minutes ago, yellowshark said:

    I have never used wall overlap and never had zits. I only print my designs and designs all have the same wall width, irrespective of number of walls, i.e. measured nozzle extrusion width. I do not know what this thin wall lark is all about as I have never found a need to use a non standard design as I design to my environment.

     

    Like you I design my own stuff, interesting you don't use overlap, how many walls do you use if you designed a box for example ?, 2 walls of your set nozzle width ?

  11. it def fixes the issue on hollow items like a box with walls in multiple of the line width, however i have tried some solid models which have infill between the walls and tbh haven't seen any adverse affect of not having compensation on, but as i don't really know what it does i can't be sure i should leave it off...

  12. 6 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    It is indeed strange, but I often compensate it with a smaller line width. So instead of 0.8, I try 0.79 or something like that, just to get rid of the compensation.

    have you considered disbaling compensation ?, i tried a couple of prints with it off, and not see a huge impact, but thats not to say i should turn it off !, i dont really know when it really helps a print ?

  13. 2 minutes ago, Smithy said:

    It is indeed strange, but I often compensate it with a smaller line width. So instead of 0.8, I try 0.79 or something like that, just to get rid of the compensation.

     

    i tried that too and as you say it stops the compensation, its like Cura thinks the walls are actually thinning around the corner when it isn't, almost like it slices in straight lines and these lines thin as they turn the corner...

     

    i have tried increasing resolution but that doesn't help

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