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    Ultimaker 3

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  1. Yes of course, what do you need exactly? And where do I find the log? (I am on Mac)
  2. Hi I created a profile with some settings and saved it in Cura (latest version). But when I select this profile not all settings are set. I think the reason is, that the values which are missing, are values which are "calculated" ones and I assume that therefore the value is not saved in the profile. For example I set "Initial Layer Horizontal Expansion" to -0.25, saved it in a new profile. But this value is missing in the profile and it seems that it is not saved. Is that something I have to live with it or is there any workaround? If not, how do you handle such things? I want to have this value always, in every print (because of the "Elephant foot") but now I have to remember every time to set in manually. Thanks! BR Christian
  3. Thanks gr5 for your explanation! This community is great and helps a lot to understand and to learn how things play together.
  4. Smithy

    Tolerance settings

    Did you set the slicing tolerance to Exclusive or something else?
  5. I want to give an update to this topic, because it could help others (beginners) with similar issues. I printed today a 20mm cube in the different Cura profiles Fine, Normal and Fast, and got some findings: In Fine - no corner issue is available (or I cannot see and feel it), in Normal you can feel it a little bit but not really noticeable and in Fast it is very present. Normal thinking people would say, yes quality is lower when printing faster. And yes it is, but when the printer is quite new and you want to print a lot of things, you don't think normal (specially me) and you choose the fast option, But then you should not complain about such issues πŸ™‚ On the other side it is exciting how to solve this effect and I will try it sometime to lower the issue in the Fast profile or better create a profile for fast prints with optimized settings. Thanks to all who helped me! Christian
  6. Smithy

    UM3 Printcore verstopft oder Feeder Problem?

    Hi Danke fΓΌr den Hinweis, werde ich kontrollieren falls es wieder kommt. Bis dato ist es zum GlΓΌck nicht mehr aufgetreten, egal ob bereits geladenes Filament oder neu geladen.
  7. Smithy

    CPE vs Tough PLA

    Generally it is dry, yes, but sometimes it rains a little bit or it is cloudy and then it is really humid and terrible. But thats summer, if it is cold and rainy we also complain πŸ™‚ HAHAHAHAHAHA πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚πŸ˜‚ Sorry about that. No problem at all, it happens very often πŸ™‚
  8. Smithy

    CPE vs Tough PLA

    One small but important note: I am in Austria (Vienna, Mozart, Skiing) not Australia! πŸ™‚ There are no Kangaroos in Austria..... But due the extreme summer temperatures we currently have in Europe, the humidity is nearly tropical.
  9. Smithy

    CPE vs Tough PLA

    UM tech sheets say, you should store it <50% humidity, so I think 40% should not be a problem. But the humidity currently here in Austria about 75% is too much. So I moved my tests with PVA to a dryer period πŸ™‚
  10. Smithy

    CPE vs Tough PLA

    Thanks, then I will give it a try. Generally I think I should buy a spule from every material (UM only) too get a feeling and to see how it behaves in different conditions.
  11. Smithy

    CPE vs Tough PLA

    ups, sorry πŸ™‚ How do nylon print, is it complicated, beside the hints on the UM webpage?
  12. Smithy

    CPE vs Tough PLA

    colorFabb’s HT is similar to CPE+ I think - or not? And I read that this not so easy to print, specially for beginners, but I haven't tried it yet. I am currently happy with my UM3, bought it just last week, so I don't plan to tune or replace some parts now. (maybe later πŸ™‚ ) Therefore I should go with material compatible with the UM3 to of the box. So when temperature is not an issue than TPLA and if higher temperatures are needed then CPE or more higher CPE+, right? I want to construct and print a holder for my network equipment at home (Unifi) and the router and switch gets really hot (its normal), so I think I should not print it with PLA or TPLA. Then CPE should material of my choice or something else?
  13. Thanks gr5 for your detailed answer! One more question, when you speak about lowering the speed to 20mm/sec you mean the overall "Print Speed" setting? If understood correctly, when I disable jerk and acceleration and set print speed to 20mm/sec for example, then the whole print will be printed at this speed or do I have to correct all other speed values as well? There is a lot more of learning, but it makes fun! Thanks for your help! Christian
  14. Smithy

    CPE vs Tough PLA

    Hi I am diving through tech sheets and articles about materials, but cannot find any answer to my question. What should be used or is better in handling/printing when the main difference i.e. chemical resistance is not an issue. So in other words, I am just looking for a material like ABS, but not ABS. It should be just more strength than normal PLA. Or is in that case ABS the material to use? I know it is hard to suggest a material without the exact knowledge about the usage of the printed part, but I am looking more less for an allrounder without any extreme requirements. And is there any material which should be used for outdoor usage - a garden gnome for example? Or is PLA enough for such cases? Thanks a lot Christian.
  15. Hi Owen thank for your reply. So you mean, thats a more less "normal" behavior in 3D printing? I am just in a deep learning about all these things and hoped there is a little custom configuration and all is good again πŸ™‚ I had a similar issues with the "elephant foot" and found a good hint how to avoid it. But I will try the next print with slower speed and come back if it was better. For most parts it is not really an issue or only a cosmetic one, but when it comes to spare parts with fixed dimensions then it could be a problem. Christian.

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