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CarloK last won the day on March 23

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  1. Great you finally found the problem cause. When you describe it like this it sounds all logical, but it was a difficult thing to figure out. Thanks for sharing your findings so hopefully others can benefit.
  2. Thanks for posting your request. Feedback like this helps us to understand how people are using the printers and how we can improve the workflow. I can't promise if or when this will be implemented but I like the request and forwarded it to our product owner.
  3. This means the printer has problems reading the SD card. I don't have an Ender3Pro printer, but here are some generic problems every SD-card printer can encounter: SD card is corrupt. When you remove the SD-card from your computer you always have to use the 'eject' function, otherwise the computer might not have saved all file data and the administration on the SD card becomes corrupt. When you insert this SD card in your Windows computer, is it then reported as potentially damaged? SD cards larger than 32Gb are not (yet) supported by all printers. Firmware bug. FAT32 has be
  4. The idea of Active Leveling in the S-line printers is that no manual adjustments should be required. As @Dim3nsioneer suggests, it seems like you have a poor configured material profile. Tweaking the Z-axis is simple to implement in the printer software, but it's fixing a symptom rather than the real problem. It will change the Z-dimensions of your print and you'll have to repeat it for every print job with this material.
  5. Thanks for the explanation of what all settings do, but for Ultimaker to move this feature out of the experimental section they'd like to hear how good it is working. Do you have to adapt the default settings often? And when you change them, what's your motivation for deviating?
  6. You already tried replacing a lot of parts. A temperature resistance between the PT100 and the heater block could be an explanation for your problems, but since you already replaced the PT100 I'd assume you there are no loose parts there. Can you use a thermometer to confirm the temperature? This would rule out all electrical causes. Other possible culprits: - Feeder problems. Not enough spring tensions, or worn out feeder wheels (takes printing less than 1 spool of abrasive materials, e.g. glass fill, but also brass infill like materials) - Clogged nozzle
  7. I like the feature too, but with mixed emotions. It can reduce printing time a lot, but I always have to compare to the default settings since it can increase the printing time too. Since you use it often, what do you think of the default settings for the Adaptive Layers? For others to learn, how do you use this feature? Are you tweaking settings? If yes, how do you do this?
  8. The guide doesn't mention it, but I would only make modifications to my printer with the power off. With power off, the motors are disengaged and you can move all parts freely around. Even the bed can be moved up and down when you place your hand(s) on the rear of the bed, close to the Z-spindle.
  9. I'm no expert in the UM2+, but search this forum for PTFE coupler. It is the white plastic (teflon) part inside the print head which degrades at temperatures higher than 230C. The higher the temperature the faster. When it degrades the inner diameter becomes smaller and it will become more difficult for the filament to get through. These are cheap replacement parts, just order a few. Quality differs so you might browse this forum for opinions. Both the Ultimaker and 3Dsolex parts were recommended.
  10. Absolutely sure for the S3 and S5 that this is one of the possible causes, next to the obvious damaged files on the USB. The release notes mention this fixed in 5.8.1. If it happens in newer versions than I'd like to hear about this. This will only happen in the first layer of printing, but when you have multiple objects and sliced for "one object at a time", this may be late in the print process. Like I wrote, sometimes an Active Leveling probe fails and this is not always properly detected. Later, during printing the printer will follow the contours of the build plate
  11. I don't know if a reseller has these parts, but you can ask. Perhaps you are lucky and they have a damaged print core where you can get spare parts from. Expect minimum EUR20 for the PT100 and EUR15 for the heater cartridge. Counting labour costs, professional users will just replace the whole print core and keep the old one for spare parts. Since you consider repairing the print core I've the feeling you don't count labour costs. Then you can go for a cheaper UM2 compatible components from a third party supplier. Even with the lower cable quality you will save money over time
  12. Most likely the error was in the Active Leveling where one of the failing probes was not detected. The release notes mention this bug fixed in 5.8.1. What firmware version are you on? During printing, when the print head comes close to the failed probe point, then the line error pops up. Often it will be the same failing probe location because of the physics in your specific printer. The Active Leveling sensor is a very sensitive device; on a different day with other temperature, different humidity, or your phone not next to the printer, everything might suddenly work again. Whe
  13. What material are you printing with? Some materials require a high temperature of 90C+, this is close to the maximum a printer can reach at room temperatures. When your printer is located in a colder environment or with moving air, then this might be your problem. Simple solution is to cover your printer under a large carton box.
  14. Not sure why you want to order a PT100, those are passive components and almost indestructible. These are PT100-B types and when you ensure the dimensions are the same you can order them everywhere for less than the original Ultimaker replacement parts. Then you will have to cut the wires to the desired length yourself. Same goes for the heater element. Most likely this is the exact same component as used in the UM2. Note that the UM2+ uses a 35W heater, this won't work. All printcores use the same 25W heater element (AA, BB, CC cores and all diameters).
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